greg@isrnix.UUCP (Gregory Travis) (12/04/85)
I would think that pouring water down the carb throat(s) might be very
dangerous. Depending on the quantity of water you might risk warping
the head or cracking the block from thermal shock. The rule about
only adding water to a hot radiator if the engine is running came from
somewhere you know!
Old radial engines in airplanes had a 'water-injection'
system that the pilot could engage for a burst of power - the idea was
to temporarily convert from a gasoline engine to a gasoline/steam engine
(which is why cars tend to run a bit better on misty/rainy days).
However, the quantity of water used was small and it was atomized
into the combustion chamber.
On another note - does anyone know why USED motor oil is supposed to
be such a great rust inhibitor (apart from oil's ability to simply
displace water)? My '70 Volvo 145 is beginning to rust in crevices
on the body (under floormats, in gas tank compartment, etc..) and
short of welding new metal I want to at least slow the rust to a
negligible pace (some of it is in very difficult to get to places - hence
my desire for something I can simply spray at the rust). Anyone have
some good ideas?
--
Gregory R. Travis
Institute for Social Research - Indiana University - Bloomington, In
ihnp4!inuxc!isrnix!greg
{pur-ee,allegra,qusavx}!isrnix!gregksbszabo@watvlsi.UUCP (Kevin Szabo) (12/06/85)
>On another note - does anyone know why USED motor oil is supposed to >be such a great rust inhibitor (apart from oil's ability to simply >displace water)? My '70 Volvo 145 is beginning to rust in crevices >on the body (under floormats, in gas tank compartment, etc..) and >short of welding new metal I want to at least slow the rust to a >negligible pace (some of it is in very difficult to get to places - hence >my desire for something I can simply spray at the rust). Anyone have >some good ideas? First of all, let me verify that oil is indeed great. After living in Ottawa for 7 years, and now Waterloo, I make it a habit to oil undercoat my car once or twice a year. The `secret' is that the oil creeps into the crevices and over the bare metal; once in place it prevents moisture & air from oxidizing your metal. There is nothing magical about USED oil. It is usually available and very cheap. I recently started using new oil that has an added 'tackifier' (sp?). This is none other than chain-saw oil. The fellow who sprays my car only charges an extra $5 for this oil; I use it because it sticks better, makes less of a mess on the driveway, and it looks nicer (it's transluscent red) than the old used oil. Regular tar undercoatings tend to make things worse after 7-10 years because they dry out. Once in this state the tar hangs off the body and presents many crevices for road salt and moisture to lodge in. Fortunately, a good oil spray will usually put things back into shape. You really should think about oil spraying BEFORE your car sees its first winter! Kevin P.S. My '70 Volvo 145s is still running after MUCH abuse by Canadian winters and municipal salt! -- Kevin Szabo' watmath!watvlsi!ksbszabo (U of W VLSI Group, Waterloo, Ont, Canada)
neal@weitek.UUCP (Neal Bedard) (12/07/85)
In article <638@isrnix.UUCP>, greg@isrnix.UUCP (Gregory Travis) writes: > I would think that pouring water down the carb throat(s) might be very > dangerous. [...] An internal `cleaning' (de-varnishing) a method I recall (from *How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive*) is to slowly pour a quantity of diesel fuel down the carburetor throat. Makes more sense than water, anyway. > Old radial engines in airplanes had a 'water-injection' > system that the pilot could engage for a burst of power - the idea was > to temporarily convert from a gasoline engine to a gasoline/steam engine > (which is why cars tend to run a bit better on misty/rainy days). > However, the quantity of water used was small and it was atomized > into the combustion chamber. Water injection reduces preignition tendencies. Thus, higher average combustion chamber pressures can be achieved. Water injection is popular with turbocharger folks. -Neal -- 55. It's a law we can do away with. UUCP: {turtlevax, resonex, cae780}!weitek!neal
ugzannin@sunybcs.UUCP (Adrian Zannin) (12/10/85)
> >On another note - does anyone know why USED motor oil is supposed to > >be such a great rust inhibitor (apart from oil's ability to simply > >displace water)? My '70 Volvo 145 is beginning to rust in crevices > >on the body (under floormats, in gas tank compartment, etc..) and > >short of welding new metal I want to at least slow the rust to a > >negligible pace (some of it is in very difficult to get to places - hence > >my desire for something I can simply spray at the rust). Anyone have > >some good ideas? > > First of all, let me verify that oil is indeed great. After > living in Ottawa for 7 years, and now Waterloo, I make it a > habit to oil undercoat my car once or twice a year. I don't know if this has been mentioned before, but there is a product out called 'Rust Reformer". It is some kind of chemical that you paint directly onto the rust itself. It chemically converts the rust itself into rust inhibitor. The stuff works like a charm too! I tried some on some rust on my car that was coming in around the doors. All I did was remove the old paint that was there, painted some of this 'Rust Reformer' over the rust that was left, and then lightly sanded over that and applied some touch up paint. Looks good as new and no rust is anywhere to be seen. You don't have to worry about getting all the rust out for fear of the rust continuing to creep. In fact, the more rust you leave, the more inhibitor you get! If you want more info, send me e-mail and I'll look up who makes the stuff and some of the places you can get it... -- Adrian Zannin ..{bbncca,decvax,dual,rocksvax,watmath,sbcs}!sunybcs!ugzannin CSNET: ugzannin@Buffalo.CSNET ARPANET: ugzannin%Buffalo@csnet-relay.ARPA BITNET: ugzannin@sunybcs.BITNET
svirsky@ttidcb.UUCP (William Svirsky) (12/11/85)
In article <638@isrnix.UUCP> greg@isrnix.UUCP (Gregory Travis) writes: >short of welding new metal I want to at least slow the rust to a >negligible pace (some of it is in very difficult to get to places - hence >my desire for something I can simply spray at the rust). Anyone have >some good ideas? > I've been told about something called Dura-extend (SP?). It's supposed to actually change the rust to some inert substance. You don't even need to brush the metal clean. Just brush it on. The person I talked to has had no re-occurence of rust on treated areas in at least 6 months. -- Bill Svirsky Citicorp/TTI 3100 Ocean Park Blvd. Santa Monica, CA 90405 Work phone: 213-450-9111 x2597 {philabs,randvax,trwrb,vortex}!ttidca!ttidcb!svirsky "I love it when a plan comes together." Hannibal Smith