ron@fluke.UUCP (Ron Pankiewicz) (03/03/86)
Does anyone have experience with treating *surface* rust? This is not (yet) a structural problem, simply a dusting scattered over random areas on the underside of my car. I'm looking for a treatment or procedure to stop the spread of the existing stuff, and also prevent any further rusting. Some suggestions I've heard are: (a) spread motor oil on the underside [will this stop existing rust?]. (b) spray aerosal undercoating mix on the underside [will this eventually separate from the metal and create a cavity for moisture to collect in?] (c) spray the underside with commercially available primer paint for *rusty* metal, e.g. available from Rustoleum. [does this stuff really work?! If so, which brand is best?] My primary concerns are (1) effectiveness, (2) ease of application, and then (3) cost. I'd welcome all advice you have on the above ideas, and any other approaches you can suggest. Thanks in advance. Ron Pankiewicz
garth@inuxd.UUCP (Garth Johnson) (03/12/86)
Ron, A couple of years ago I bought a bottle of rust "neutralizer ?" called EXTEND. It cost two or three dollars at the auto parts store, and is made by DURO, the BONDO people. I planned to use it to stop small rust spots from becoming big rust spots, and it did the job. EXTEND is a milky liquid that you apply to the rusty area with a small paintbrush (I used some cheepo artist brushes). It dries in a short while and turns the rust area black. I guess it works by preventing air from reaching the rusty area. Just this past weekend I used it on a small rust spot on my Toyota and then painted the EXTENDed area with touch-up paint. It worked great. I think this product is great for getting a couple more years out of your car, but I don't think it is intended for use on anything but surface rust. Try some, it is only a couple dollars, and let me know how it works. Garth Johnson
paulb@ttidcc.UUCP (Paul Blumstein) (03/13/86)
In article <1600@vax3.fluke.UUCP> ron@fluke.UUCP (Ron Pankiewicz) writes: >Does anyone have experience with treating *surface* >rust? This is not (yet) a structural problem, simply >a dusting scattered over random areas on the underside >of my car. I'm looking for a treatment or procedure >to stop the spread of the existing stuff, and also >prevent any further rusting. > Ron Pankiewicz Duro makes Extend. It has a runny latex (white) feel to it that you paint on rusted surfaces. It treats rust & turns black in the process. You usually have to use two coats. It can be painted over if you wish. Good Stuff. It is available at most hardware & auto supply stores. -- -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Paul Blumstein | Citicorp/TTI | MURPHY INVENTED COMPUTERS 3100 Ocean Park Blvd. | Santa Monica, CA 90405 +-------------------------------------------- (213) 450-9111 {philabs,randvax,trwrb,vortex}!ttidca!paulb
lacasse@randvax.UUCP (Mark LaCasse) (03/15/86)
I've used a product on rusty steel called "Extend" by Loctite, Inc. It is billed as a "rust inhibitor" or "rust sealer" or such. I didn't use it on a car, but have used it on steel outdoors (e.g. I-Beams). It is water base (easy to clean up and apply). You paint it on. You should remove lose falking rust first. It is almost clear, slightly pink. That is how it dries (almost clear) if you paint it on wood. When painted on steel or rust, it reacts chemically with the iron, and turns jet black. This takes a few minutes. In good weather, it dries in under an hour. It isn't the strongest surface, and will last much longer if followed up with another coating. The simple route for this is Auto paint, Rustoleum, or DeRusto (I used the last). I've also tried anhydrous polyurathane, and liked that a lot. It is VERY hard when dry. It is good on steel, and about anything else too. I think some airlines paint their 747's with this stuff. I've been pretty happy with the rust locking effect of the Extend, and with the hardness of the anhydrous polyurethane. I bought the Extend in a 1 gal. jug from an industrial distributor for about $35/gal (ouch). The anhydrous polyurethane is harder to find. I bought it for about $28/gal from a manufacturer or it, Western Specialities Coatings, in Los Angeles. Mark LaCasse qantel!hplabs!sdcrdcf!randvax!lacasse c/o The Rand Corporation cbosgd!ihnp4!sdcrdcf!randvax!lacasse 1700 Main Street lacasse@Rand-Unix Santa Monica, CA 90406 213/393-0411 ext. 7420
junk@ur-tut.UUCP (Jan Vandenbrande) (03/19/86)
... What I meant in my earlier posting on surface rust by the stuff in the brown bottle called "Rust away ???" or something is actually called "EXTEND", which I see now, some people have commented on already. The stuff is also available in Europe under a different name. I have rather mixed results with this stuff. Jan
jeff@wjvax.UUCP (Jeff Albom) (03/19/86)
I have used Duro's Extend on several cars (many of which came from high rust areas such as the East coast and England). It is excellent for use on surface rust and will also slow the creep of rot on puncture rust. If used on puncture rust you must be sure to coat both sides of the hole with liberal amounts of the stuff. On large holes (bigger than a quarter), this is no problem since you can stick your finger thru and coat the inside. For smaller holes (pin holes, etc.), I prefer to use a sponge brush (the type used to apply stains and latex paint). Saturate the brush with Extend and dab it on with firm pressure. This will cause the Extend to ooze thru the holes and, at least, coat the inside edge of the hole. In addition to Duro Extend, I have received mailers from Loctite advertis- ing a similar product (I don't recall their name for the stuff but it may also be called Extend). Loctite says their product can be used as a final surface coating on bare metals that will see adverse environments (i.e. ocean spray, some corrosive industrial environs, etc.) Their product also appears to be some sort of polymer coat. jeff@wjvax