dgrif@hpfcla.UUCP (12/03/85)
I think that the possibility of vapor lock between the
fuel pump and the carburator is not possible for the reason stated
by 'marauder' but don't forget the input side. A fuel pump cannot
"suck" very well and it is possible to boil gasoline just at the
fuel pump input. This increase in vapor pressure just ahead of the
intake causes enough pressure to prevent the pump from drawing in
liquid gasoline. I know this can happen because I drive a 1-ton Chevy
van that did exactly this. Of course the problem (hot gasoline) was compounded
by a poorly installed dual exhaust that heated the gasline all the way
from the tank to the fuel pump. The second exhaust pipe was positioned
about 3 inches from the gas line. I finally cured the problem by re-routing
the gas line and for good measure installed an electric fuel pump. Now I
have no problems and can insure that the liquid input to the fuel pump
is not much above ambiant temperature.
Dan Griffin
ihnp4!hpfcla!griffinbcking@inmet.UUCP (12/11/85)
*** Deface this lime with four message ** While we're on the subject of U-joints and drive shafts, it's a good idea to note that worn U-joints are a serious matter and should be replaced at the first sign of wear. All front engined, rear wheel drive cars have a driveshaft which connects the transmission at the front of the car to the differential at the rear. There are two universal joints in most cars- one in the front and one in the back. If the rear one breaks, the car will have no motive power and will coast to a stop dragging its driveshaft on the ground. This may or not be a dangerous situation, depending of course on traffic conditions at the time. If the front joint goes, things are a little different. The front of the driveshaft will fall to the road, possibly pole-vaulting the car into who-knows-what. The warning signs of U-joint wear listed in this note should be considered. Manual transmission autos may also exibit vibration on acceleration or deceleration if the universals are worn. As mentioned, it is easy to replace these yourself if you're so inclined. If not, it is cheap to have the work done. R.M. Mottola (Currently unemployed, but not for long) (Response posted for me by a friend. This situation is also transient.)
rjs@hpfcla.UUCP (12/20/85)
Amsoil is distributed by local dealers (kinda like avon). You might check out your phone book to see if anyone has an ad in the yellow pages. BTW, Amsoil came out with a 70W-90W multi-viscosity gear lube last year. I use it in my transmission and rear differential in my 4WD Suburu. Bob Schneider ihnp4!hpfcla!rjs
mjb206@uiucuxa.CSO.UIUC.EDU (12/21/85)
I have been using Mobil 1 in my '79 Fiesta. It now has 109K miles
and runs like it will go another 100K. Mobil 1???
I don't know whether it is responsible, but I swear by it.
Mike Bruno
U of Illinoismcb@hpfcla.UUCP (12/28/85)
Re: Changing from petro to syn oils
Amsoil makes an engine "cleaner" that you use as follows when changing
over from old dinasaurs to synthetic oil:
Drain 1 qt (size of the cleaner can) of oil from crankcase.
Add the cleaner. Run engine for ~15 minutes (I am told that
this stuff stinks). Drain everything. Fill with synthetic.
This product wasn't available in '79 when I went to Amsoil but I would use
it if/when I move new engines to syn oil.
Mike Berry, hpfcla!mcbmcb@hpfcla.UUCP (01/23/86)
Re: Intercoolers > I have been seeing alot of articles lately on installing intercoolers > on turbos. I am looking to do the same thing. I presently have a '85 > Mitsubishi Starion LE. The intercooler has interested me for a long > time not just because of its increase in power but also because it will > probably/hopefully increase the life of the turbo because of the lower > air temperatures. I believe that you are mistaken here. The turbo impeller is upstream of the intercooler so the turbo won't even know it is there i.e. no temperature diff to the turbo. An intercooler also adds delays to the throttle response if the system has an unpresurized carburator. I doubt they affect multi-point fuel injection much. I'd say a grand is too much for an intercooler. Why not try a nitrous oxide injection system? It will add about as much as the turbo does. Mike Berry, HP FSD, hpfcla!mcb
perry@techsup (02/26/86)
Someone also told me once that with the gasoline starting at a colder temperature that it is not able to expand as much, (the gas in your tank is much colder than the gas in the ground tank at the pumps) before it is ignited. Add this effect to the denser air, colder oil etc. etc.
perry@techsup (03/06/86)
Just think, the gas you are buying now was maded from oil purchased in Dec. (at the outrageous oprice of $22 a barrel) In May you'll be buying gas from the 18 dollar stuff. Even the big companies in the more high price markets should be charging .75/gal 35 cents for product and 40 cent for taxes, trucking, advertising etc.
spitzer@faust.UUCP (03/13/86)
.. I've had some success building a "toy" expert system to deal with INCREDIBLY SIMPLIFIED suspensions by starting with the book: How To Make Your Car Handle Fred Puhn HPBooks; Tucson, AZ This stuff is not easily modeled in the real world ... I've seen new bushings and a (same size but) harder steel roll bar make a .1 g difference on the skidpad. It took Mazda years to understand the 86 RX7 back end..Mercedes more for their 5 link suspension. There are some very big computers in Detroit chewing on the problem. Good luck.
s0220@techsup (03/26/86)
Approach the apartment complex for the name of the contractor that did the painting. Many are bonded and the more reputable will at least pay to have the car cleaned. Polishing compund is a good choice. It does have an abrasive property so be gentle with it. If your car is under six months from date os manufacture I would wait a bit. If it's more than 6 months old try the polishing compund. If it's more than one or two years old it could probably use it anyway. You will notice that the rag will turn the color of your car, this is normal. The oxidized paint is coming off. You will also need to wax your car afterwards. Before trying anything though test an iconspicuous spot to make sure that you won't scrape all the paint that's left off. It's not that abrasive (not like sandpaper) but has fine abrasive that leave a smooth finish when done. If that don't work try some 600 grit sandpaper, than the compund than the wax. Again be careful. I'm not going to be responsible for whatever you try.