jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/19/85)
Article: 8:6
Greetings. I have been reading this group since its inception, and wanted to
tell you all how useful I have found the articles here. Also, I wanted to ask
a few questions, but will you please use mail rather than a followup article?
If there is any kind of volume, I will post a synopsis here. As the recent
purchaser of a S&W .357, I'd like to find out the truth on these topics:
1) The guy at the sporting goods store told me that I should not
keep the gun stored inside a leather holster because the leather
could "leach" moisture and cause rusting of the gun. Is that true?
I have mink-oiled the begeesus out of the holster, and can't
see how the leather could do that. I live in the Everett, Washington
area, but our average humidity is not all that high - maybe 20%
for 75% of the year, but the 25% that it rains, well...
2) I seem to consistently shoot patterns that are low and left. What
am I doing wrong?
3) If I spend about $150.00 on a basic startup reloading set, how
long (shooting about 100 rounds/month) will it take to pay for
itself? Right now I pay around $8.00 for 50 158 grain rounds.
Never mind- I just figured it out. I guess the real question now
is whether $150.00 is about the right amount for the setup, and
what pieced I should get. I know already I'll need:
powder measure
die
crimper (? - I mean the deal that seals in the bullet)
Thanks very much for your answer --
Gary Benson (fluke!inc)
Gary Benson * John Fluke Mfg. Co. * PO Box C9090 * Everett WA * 98206
MS/232-E = = {allegra} {uw-beaver} !fluke!inc = = (206)356-5367
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-ascii is our god and unix is his profit-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
--
Jordan K. Hubbard
{pesnta, decwrl, dual, pyramid}!greipa!jordan
"Here we have two bull limpits, locked in a life-or-death
"struggle."jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/23/85)
Article: 8:8 open reply to Gary Benson > ..., I wanted to ask a few questions, but will you please use > mail rather than a followup article? No. These are questions of general interest. Don't be embarrassed by ignorance, it's curable. >1) The guy at the sporting goods store told me that I should not > keep the gun stored inside a leather holster because the leather > could "leach" moisture and cause rusting of the gun. Is that true? > I have mink-oiled the begeesus out of the holster, and can't > see how the leather could do that. I live in the Everett, Washington > area, but our average humidity is not all that high - maybe 20% > for 75% of the year, but the 25% that it rains, well... I don't like the word "leach", but do what the man said. Don't keep steel in leather or on real or synthetic wool (as in those zippered, padded, cases). They tend to attract moisture and keep it against the metal, promoting rust. Cloth and wood are ok. Don't overdo the grease on the holster, you'll make it floppy. You might try one of those ballistic nylon holsters, they're ok for long-term storage. >2) I seem to consistently shoot patterns that are low and left. What > am I doing wrong? Errr... Please don't say patterns, the truth hurts :-) We say groups, like the riflemen do. Shotgunners pattern. If you are consistent then { You aren't doing anything wrong! } { congratulations!) } { You need to adjust the weapon to your style and eye. } If you have adjustable sights then adjust them so the group centers on the bull. practice to make the group smaller. else { fixed sights } If you don't mind "defacing" the revolver then (low) Reduce the front sight height (file it down). (left) Make the notch wider by filing the right side. { effecting an adjustment } { but don't do any of this till after you've done lots of shooting and your form has settled down. } { you really should trade for adjustable sights } else { you don't to trade or file } change the cartridge to make the bullet strike higher: 1) use a heavier bullet, or 2) use a lighter powder charge, or 3) use a slower powder (less effective). Note: This is counterintuitive. Beginners often assume that a heavier bullet will strike lower due to a decrease in speed and consequent longer flight time, and that a heavier charge will give more speed and hence a shorter flight and a higher strike. However, in pistols and revolvers the barrel time in the rising (recoiling) barrel has more effect. The longer the ball is in the barrel the higher it will strike. Think it through. end if { deface or not } end if { adjustable vs fixed sights } else { you are not consistent, but notice frequent low-left hits } Correct one or more of these common faults: A: printing to the left - Flinching. Apply standard training disciplines. - Tilting the revolver counterclockwise. Very common among righthanders. Make a conscious effort to keep the piece vertical. - Trigger squeeze not straight back, but rather tending to press to the left. Don't overcompensate, it's almost as common to pull rightwards as to push leftwards (righthanders). B: printing low - Flinching. Again. Most likely. - Trigger squeeze not straight back, but tending to depress the muzzle. For both A and B the cure requires an incredible amount of dry firing. (But serious pistol shooting does, anyway.) end if { consistency } >3) If I spend about $150.00 on a basic startup reloading set, how > long (shooting about 100 rounds/month) will it take to pay for > itself? Right now I pay around $8.00 for 50 158 grain rounds. > Never mind- I just figured it out. I guess the real question now > is whether $150.00 is about the right amount for the setup, and > what pieced I should get. I know already I'll need: > > powder measure > die > crimper (? - I mean the deal that seals in the bullet) Get one of the many good introductory books, or call me. If you mean to get serious about pistol and revolver shooting you will use up an incredible amount of ammunition. When I was competing I didn't *count* cartridges, I measured them in quarts. My typical monthly consumption was three or four quarts of 45 or 38/357 (depending on whether I was in combat or bullseye competition). You really will need to load your own. I've only fired three "tailormades" in the last 20 years of pistol and revolver shooting, except for service ammunition for the .45. I trust my own far more than any factory's. But do get a *pistol* powder measure, with a fixed charge weight. gus Baird School of ICS Georgia Tech (404)894-3183 (-3152 to leave messages)
jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/23/85)
Article: 8:9 I would suggest the following combination as a good starting reloading outfit: A RCBS Rock-chuker loading press and the (I can't remember exactly what it is called) add on kit that contains a powder measure, powder scales, lubricating pad, and a specifications book. As far as the bullet crimper is concerned - it is integral to the bullet seating die. With the above two items about all that you need to reload is a set of dies in the caliber you desire, powder, bullets, and primers.
jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/23/85)
Article: 8:11 In article <346@greipa.UUCP> you write: >Article: 8:6 > > 1) The guy at the sporting goods store told me that I should not > keep the gun stored inside a leather holster because the leather > could "leach" moisture and cause rusting of the gun. Is that true? > > 2) I seem to consistently shoot patterns that are low and left. What > am I doing wrong? > > 3) If I spend about $150.00 on a basic startup reloading set, how > long (shooting about 100 rounds/month) will it take to pay for > itself? Right now I pay around $8.00 for 50 158 grain rounds. 1- I found that my ruger single six, the first pistol I owned, did exactly that. I started storing it in a cloth case and have done so ever since, with no problem. 2- If you are left handed, then you are likely pulling the trigger rather than squeezing. If you are right handed, then you are likely anticipating the recoil and pushing against it. Relax, squeeze and let your arm absorb the recoil either way. Try shooting two handed if you aren't already. Go to a range and ask someone who seems to know for some help. Most shooters are more than willing to help. 3- $150 is about right if you get all of the following: press(app $45) dies(app $25) shell holder(app $4) scale(app $40 powder measure(app $20) reloading manual(app $10) funnel(app $3) lube pad and lubricant(app $5) A caution. Be careful, it is very easy to overload a pistol case and that is DANGEROUS. Check your cases all one last time before you put the bullets in. Do a visual check to see that they all have the same amount of powder in them. Good Luck and enjoy. Mark O'Shea
jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/23/85)
Article: 8:12 3) If I spend about $150.00 on a basic startup reloading set, how long (shooting about 100 rounds/month) will it take to pay for itself? Right now I pay around $8.00 for 50 158 grain rounds. Never mind- I just figured it out. I guess the real question now is whether $150.00 is about the right amount for the setup, and what pieced I should get. I know already I'll need: powder measure die crimper (? - I mean the deal that seals in the bullet) WHERE are you getting 50 rounds of 158 grain for $8.00? Is that reloading cost or are you buying them already loaded? I have an RCBS reloading system and would recomend their stuff. Get a Lee priming tool, they are very fast for priming. The RCBS system does not do priming very well. John Blankenagel