jkh@jade.BERKELEY.EDU (Jordan K. Hubbard) (10/10/86)
Article: 10:7 >What choke should I get? Or, should I get one of the newer >models that have inter-changeable barrels? I recommend one of the models with the screw-in chokes although these are not found on the cheapest makes. Less expensive than interchangeable barrels but just as versatile. >I think my wife would be somewhat reluctant to fire the gun after >the full-choke knocked her on her ass the first shot!!! That is >if my assumption that choke type is directly related to >amount of kick-back. Felt recoil is a function of: Powder charge (Magnum or target load) etc., Weight of shot charge, Weight of gun, design of stock, and recoil reducing devices (recoil pad, padded jacket, etc.). In other words, firing a magnum shotshell in a lightweight gun with no recoil pad on a stock that has too much drop will kick your dentures loose. A heavy gun with a straight stock and recoil pad firing light loads will "kick" much less. Since there are no free lunches there must be some type of compromise to match intended use. I do highly recommend that any practice be conducted with the use of ear protection. Not only is this a good way to save your hearing, but the noise of a gun going off has a lot to do with the shooter's perception of "kick". Select your choke for your intended target. Cyl or IC for Skeet, defense, or other close targets. Full for trap, long shots at ducks, geese, doves, etc. Modified is between the two. >Is a .12 gauge the best gun for what I think I will be using it for? 12 gauge is very popular and the easiest to make more effective hits with (more shot in target zone). Remember that it will kick harder than a 20 or .410, in like guns, though. >Is a double-barrel a good idea? I decided on it because of it seems more >reliable. Put a shell in each barrel, close gun and fire. >If the answer is yes, am I better off with an >over-and-under or a side-by-side? From what I have seen, >the side-by-side is somewhat cheaper. Is there any reason >for this? A double is a good idea due to reliability and simplicity. You don't want to have a complicated weapon for a beginner or yourself under duress. >There's a gun shop less than a mile from my new home. >I was wondering if it would be sensible to buy from >that dealer even if I could do better, price-wise, somewhere >else. Is there a great difference in pricing among dealers? >Are there any pointers for dealing with gun dealers? >Are there any caveats for buying a used gun? I just bought >a new house in what seems to be hunting country, and as >such, used guns are as common as used pickups! Do I ask for >a test shoot before buying? Should I kick the stock? Or >is a used gun usually a 'blind purchase'? Depends on the dealer. Would you buy a used car from him? The subject of "How to buy a used gun" requires a lengthy discussion with everyone having different opinions. Basically examine it as you would a used car: Is it a good brand and model? How well was it taken care of? A beater won't be a good shooter. By all means ask your dealer if he will warranty it. Few will but if they do you are protected somewhat. And a final note on shotguns. Does it fit YOU? Shoulder the gun with your eyes closed then open them. If all you see is the front sight and the rear of the receiver that's good! If you see part of the barrel or none of the front sight then the gun does not fit well and you will not shoot well with it. This was longer than I anticipated but I thought your questions were good and of interest to many readers.