jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (08/27/85)
Article: 8:15 Regarding a request for info on AUG, XGI or HK91 (mod.rec.guns 1:2). I only have first-hand information on the HK-9N series. Even though they have been called the "state of the art" in assault rifles, they do have some drawbacks. 1) The collapsible-stock versions have a tendency to spray oil onto your face when positioned for through-the-sight firing. This is due to leakage around the buffer plate bolt (?) on the rear of the gun. The plastic stock version doesn't have this problem. 2) The complex "roller bolt" and retarded gas system is very smooth in it's operation but cannot be used with lead (unjacketted) bullets. As with other gas-op guns, unjacketted bullets cause clogging problems in the gas port. This also means better cleaning practices and avoiding low-cost corrosive ammo. Aside of that, they are fine semi-autos. I tend to have more faith in the straight blowback operated assault weapons like the UZI, MAC and KG-99 series. These have their own problems, mostly centering around the clip and feed area. This basically can be halted by staying with the weapon's favorite brand of ammo (a typical semi-auto thing to do). Hope this helps. Gary
jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard) (09/18/85)
Article: 9:7 N.B. THERE IS NO GAS PORT IN THE HK 91: IT IS STRICTLY DELAYED-ACTION GAS BLOW-BACK.
jkh@jade.BERKELEY.EDU (Jordan K. Hubbard) (11/01/86)
Cc: dlow@ucbvax.Berkeley.Edu Article: 10:59 hplabs!ucbvax!jade!jkh Re: Dennis Farnden Carbide die info request Carbide resizing dies are the way to go! They really do not require lubing and make reloading faster and cleaner. I use only carbide dies for my pistol reloading. The cases do not come out any more polished than with regular dies. I use RCBS dies but you may not be able to get them. Due to shipping costs, reloading dies tend to be geographically restricted in their distribution. Danny Low
jkh@jade.UUCP (12/11/86)
I have a Dan Wesson that I've tried putting the Packmire(sp?) grips on a long time ago. Actually, I put them on back in 1977, I just was never able to get them off! No big deal, I never disassembled the gun since because it has operated fine and standard cleaning did the job. Recently I started shooting reloads that were extremely dirty. 300 rounds on a weekend and my cylinder got sluggish. I was forced to tear the gun down about every other weekend for a 'total' cleaning. Getting the rubber grips off became such a nightmare I eventually left the wood grip installed. Spending 30-45 minutes tugging and in one case pulling a muscle in my shoulder really pissed me off. I tried everything, dry grips, 'Break-Free', WD-40, Vaseline, Hoppes,... Finally, I got pissed enough I called up Dan Wesson and asked if anyone there used the grips and how the hell do they get them off. I got a worker who told me a lot of their people have them. The grips for the Dan Wesson have a square metal tube in the rubber, with a slight amount of rubber inside the tube. He recommended getting in there with a small blade or screwdriver and scraping away the rubber from the SIDE surfaces, not the front or back. I scraped one side and the grip now goes on AND OFF with a LOT less hassle, but still tight. I may scrape the other side, just to make it a little easier. The alternative is to file the butt post to take off the casting marks, but then the wooden handle may become sloppy. The worker offered to let me send the gun to him and he'd do it (presumably for free, but if I wanted it blued over the work, I'd have to pay) but he recommended that the scraping of the rubber grip was the prefered method. Don't take this a a blast against Packmire(again sp?) I wouldn't own a .357 without them! I've just got a set for my S&W Model 36 also, I just haven't gotten around to using them yet. Tomorrow they will get plenty of use!! Mike Yetsko Boston's Beth Israel Hospital trsvax!techsup!bbimg!mikey ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I have an older Dan Wesson 15-2 that in rapid fire sometimes will not properly penetrate the primer, leading to a misfire. I have NEVER had this happen with factory ammo, only reloads. I have used CCI primers, both the regular small pistol and the large magnum in the plastic Target 38's from Speer with the same problem. When the gun was new, it had this problem and it was solved by a slight filing of the hammer to increase penetration. Now with well over 5000 rounds through the weapon (maybe even closer to 10000) I'm beginning to suspect something else. The transfer bar is getting quite a mark in it from hitting the striking surface of the firing pin. I may replace it just in case. It's easy to do and probably very inexpensive. The other alternative is the main spring. Has anyone heard of a 'weak spring' in a Dan Wesson? Are different spring rates available? If anyone has any suggestions for what to try, I'd appreciate hearing them. Also, if anyone has replaced the spring in the 15-2, I would appreciate any tips. I've never had the spring out and it looks like it might be one of these 'boing-gone' situations if I'm not careful. Mike Yetsko Boston's Beth Israel Hospital trsvax!techsup!bbimg!mikey
jkh@jade.BERKELEY.EDU (Jordan K. Hubbard) (12/16/86)
Article: 12:21
I had a Dan Wesson that had the same symptom you describe. The problem
turned out be a design flaw which Dan Wesson has since corrected. I purchased
my gun around 1978 and had the modification done around 1981 when it was first
available. On the original design of the 15-2 the "gas-ring" (the front
bearing surface of the cylinder that rides against the frame) was bearing only
against one side of the frame. In front of the cylinder, the bearing surface
for the gas-ring is composed of the solid frame on the right half and the crane
on the left half. Since these two pieces do not line up perfectly to provide
a flat bearing surface the common solution is to design in a circular thrust
washer on either the frame or the crane or integral with the cylinder. Dan
Wesson has chosen the latter solution and it works just fine. Prior to this
modification the gas-ring wears farther and farther into the frame or crane
and causes excessive cylinder end-play. This results in excessive headspace
and the firing pin has to travel further to strike the primer. The result is a
light firing pin strike with a floating firing pin design as on the Dan Wesson.
In my case, I seat my primers on my reloads fairly deep to avoid an occasional
high primer hanging up the gun. You may check your end-play to determine
if this condition exists in your gun. Anyway, I sent my gun to Dan Wesson
with my suspicions (I'd seen an article by Milek that indicated this problem)
and they returned the gun with a new cylinder of the new improved design
installed in three weeks at no charge! So I was very happy. I'd respectfully
suggest you send your revolver to Dan Wesson for them to trouble-shoot and
repair if needed all at the same time, because you will waste a lot of time
trying this and that, and waiting for parts and possibly finding the repair
calls for tools you don't have on hand. But, whatever, good luck!
-Bernie
jkh@jade.BERKELEY.EDU (Jordan K. Hubbard) (01/07/87)
Article: 1:6 In-Reply-To: <1895@jade.BERKELEY.EDU> In article <1895@jade.BERKELEY.EDU> you write: >I have an older Dan Wesson 15-2 that in rapid fire sometimes will not >properly penetrate the primer, leading to a misfire. I have NEVER had >this happen with factory ammo, only reloads. I have used CCI primers, >both the regular small pistol and the large magnum in the plastic >Target 38's from Speer with the same problem. When the gun was new, >it had this problem and it was solved by a slight filing of the hammer to >increase penetration. Now with well over 5000 rounds through the weapon The word is at our falling plate matches, where the top guns shoot S&W K frames with tuned actions and light double action pulls, is that cci primers are hard and that ignition is inconsistent when using these revolvers. All of them reload with Federal primers. They claim that they are the most sensitive made. I had to put the factory spring back in my K frame to get it to ignite my reloads with WW primers. I had no problems with Federal primed reloads. John Mireley