info-mac@utcsrgv.UUCP (info-mac) (05/11/84)
Date: Wed 9 May 84 22:06:45-EDT From: Michael Rubin <uw-beaver!RUBIN@COLUMBIA-20.ARPA> Subject: getting inside the Mac.... To: info-mac@SUMEX-AIM.ARPA Tips on how to open the thing up: Make sure the Torx T-15 screwdriver you get has an extra long shaft ( >= 5 inches, the usual ones are only 3-4 inches). This is needed to reach the two screws way back under the handle. Alternatively you can get a Torx bit on a 1/4" drive socket and use an extender, or buy a normal Torx driver and cut the handle down. There is NO screw behind the Apple decal! That is a myth, like the one about the left-hand-threaded light bulbs on New York subways. There are only five screws: two near the bottom (marked with ! icon), one in the battery compartment, and two under the handle. When you remove all five screws the case still won't come off, because it's fitted very tightly. Pry it open with something blunt, like a butter knife. If you have the programmer's switch installed, it will tend to hang up on the aluminum-foil shielding behind the I/O ports. Be careful. On the video board (left side) there are adjustments for picture width and height. If your Mac has very wide margins, you can make the picture bigger. Just be sure you keep the aspect ratio square -- while doing the adjusting, have MacPaint running with a large square drawn on the screen, and use a ruler. Random observations on the interior design: The frame is still designed for the 5.25" Twiggy drive -- they mounted the 3.5" drive on a Twiggy-sized bracket so it would reach the screw holes. The case is nice heavy stuff, with a thick coating of conductive paint on the inside, almost obscuring the signatures of all the designers (that's NOT a myth!). As all the phantom drawings suggest, the right side of the case is almost empty. Enough room for a memory board or even a second disk drive. Probably not enough for a Winchester, though. -------