ccs@aluxe.UUCP (shiflett c c) (12/23/85)
I am going to have a burglar alarm system installed, but don't
know very much about them. I have read the Oct., 1984 article
in the Consumers Report. I would appreciate any information or
helpful hints. Specifically:
1. What kind of system minimizes the chance of a burglar getting
into the house? (That is, which type is the most reliable?
2. How do I minimize false alarms? (Meaning alarms which are not
a result of mistakes I make, like opening a door with the system on)
3. What should I look for to determine how well a company performs future
maintenance, provides replacement parts, etc?
4. Is a national company to be used over a local company?
5. Should I get a system which dials the police automatically?
(As opposed to a system which dials the burglar alarm company)
6. What is the standard guarantee on the system?
Curt Shiflett
aluxe!ccs
Coronet 8-235-7196smh@mhuxl.UUCP (henning) (12/24/85)
**** **** From the keys of Steve Henning, AT&T Bell Labs, Reading, PA mhuxl!smh > 1. What kind of system minimizes the chance of a burglar getting > into the house? (That is, which type is the most reliable? Solid doors, dead-bolt locks, locked windows with sticker-bushes planted underneath and a burglar alarm system that makes one-hell-of-a-loud noise are the only things that will deter the burglar from getting into the house. Don't do one thing that I've seen happen; make the locks so fool proof that the burglars could not set off the alarm. Make sure that entry is hard but triggering the alarm is easy with traps set up in the house in places sure to be set off first. > 2. How do I minimize false alarms? (Meaning alarms which are not > a result of mistakes I make, like opening a door with the system on) Make sure that pets won't set it off. Get used to the system before setting the alarm for real. Most alarms have a check position which allows you to get used to it. I have a wireless alarm and it has been triggered twice in 6 years by electrical disturbances, both times when we were on a trip. Any false alarms defeat the effectiveness of the system; the crying wolf syndrome. > 3. What should I look for to determine how well a company performs future > maintenance, provides replacement parts, etc? I personally would never let anyone I did not know install an alarm in my home. Many times secretaries, installers, and even managers have connections with thieves and can easily defeat any system if they know it. Your best bet would be to have a friend with discretion install a good commercial system. > 5. Should I get a system which dials the police automatically? Police departments in my area will not accept such calls. When they used to they would charge a stiff fee for false alarms. It turned out that it was cheaper to have another company screen the alarms and call the police. This also avoided the fine for false alarms. Also calling the police doesn't do any good unless you have an alarm that lets the thieves in and the police can respond to the alarm within about 2.5 minutes. That is virtually impossible. So you had better plan on scarring the thieves away.
larry@kitty.UUCP (Larry Lippman) (12/26/85)
> I am going to have a burglar alarm system installed, but don't > know very much about them. I have read the Oct., 1984 article > in the Consumers Report. I would appreciate any information or > helpful hints. Specifically: > 1. What kind of system minimizes the chance of a burglar getting > into the house? (That is, which type is the most reliable? Use a system which employs any or all of the following alarm sensor technologies: (1) passive infrared motion detectors; (2) modulated infrared point-to-point photoelectric cells, and (3) 10 cm microwave motion detectors. Traditional door switches should also be used where possible. > 2. How do I minimize false alarms? (Meaning alarms which are not > a result of mistakes I make, like opening a door with the system on) Use ONLY the above sensor methods. Other methods like ultrasonic motion detectors, UHF motion detectors, vibration sensors, floor mats, audio sensors, etc. are notoriously unreliable. Audio monitoring is good only when done by a company like Sonitrol, who uses a central station and leased line; this is probably too expensive for most residential use, however. > 3. What should I look for to determine how well a company performs future > maintenance, provides replacement parts, etc? INSIST upon references, and CHECK THEM OUT! > 4. Is a national company to be used over a local company? Depends on circumstances. There is at least one "national company" (I won't the the name here) whose products are real junk. See 3. above. Whatever you do, DO NOT go to a one-man-working-out-of-his-car outfit! > 5. Should I get a system which dials the police automatically? > (As opposed to a system which dials the burglar alarm company) Many police departments will NO LONGER ACCEPT direct dialed alarm reports because of the excessive false alarm rate. Check with your local police department on their policy. Some burglars today cut the telephone line as a matter of course. Make certain that your system has a good loud external bell or siren; preferably two of same. Unless you can afford the luxury of a leased telephone line to an alarm company central station, don't assume that a "silent alarm" will be reliable - get a local alarm indication simultaneously with the dialer indication. Also, make certain that your system has battery backup on the dialer and all sensors for at LEAST 8 hours; preferably 24 hours. > 6. What is the standard guarantee on the system? Varies all over the map. ==> Larry Lippman @ Recognition Research Corp., Clarence, New York <== ==> UUCP {decvax|dual|rocksanne|rocksvax|watmath}!sunybcs!kitty!larry <== ==> VOICE 716/741-9185 {rice|shell}!baylor!/ <== ==> FAX 716/741-9635 {G1, G2, G3 modes} duke!ethos!/ <== ==> burl!gladys!/ <== ==> "Have you hugged your cat today?" ihnp4!/ <==