jpexg@mit-hermes.ARPA (John Purbrick) (04/30/86)
> 2. There's a large water stain on a plaster ceiling (guess why...) > My understanding is that water stains bleed thru paint unless you do > something special -- what? The old paint is latex and I'd like the new > top coat, at least, to be latex. Thanks in advance. What to do is paint the stain with lacquer--not any other kind of varnish!! Then paint as usual. The same treatment works for bleeding knots in wood. Another vote here for net.house!
mike@amdcad.UUCP (Mike Parker) (04/30/86)
No to net.house. Most woodworkers have a home handyman streak. Let's
save the effort of creating a new newsgroup and move the house stuff
to net.rec.wood. If I'm wrong, we'll get flamed by the woodworkers and
we can restart the net.house stuff. As it stands net.rec.wood is a very
low traffic group and would proably welcome a new topic.
mike
--
UUCP: {ucbvax,decwrl,ihnp4,allegra}!amdcad!mike
ARPA: amdcad!mike@decwrl.dec.comsteve@jplgodo.UUCP (Steve Schlaifer x3171 156/224) (05/02/86)
In article <2636@decwrl.DEC.COM>, kolling@decwrl.UUCP writes: > My roof has died and I'm about to have it replaced. The > old shingles are cedar. The options are: remove the cedar and > install new cedar shingles, or put asbestos shingles over the old > cedar ones (there are two grades of asbestos, 15 year and 25 year). > Cedar looks quite a bit nicer than asbestos, but we're talking a > factor or 2 or 3 in cost ($1.5K vs. $4K are the handwaving estimates > I've gotten.) Any advice from folks with good or bad experiences? > (Fiberglass shingles are also an option, but I've ruled them out > because they look like the pits.) I would strongly recommend that you not replace the roof with cedar (or any other wood) shingles--there is a very high danger of fire with a wood roof which can be greatly reduced by using asphalt or asbestos shingles. The danger arises not so much from your house catching fire and the roof burning but from a neighboring fire spreading to your house when hot embers land on your roof. Even in non-forested areas this can be quite a problem. When I last replaced my roof, I used 15 year guarantee materials. The roof is actually expected to last a little longer than the guarantee time and the installer told us 15 year lasted about 20 and 25 year about 35. So, I was 30 at the time and in 20 years would be 50; in 35 years I would be 65 and maybe retired. Better I should have to replace the roof a second time when I was 50 and still gainfully employed than have to do it when I was near retirement. -- ...smeagol\ Steve Schlaifer ......wlbr->!jplgodo!steve Advance Projects Group, Jet Propulsion Labs ....group3/ 4800 Oak Grove Drive, M/S 156/204 Pasadena, California, 91109 +1 818 354 3171
williams@srcsip.UUCP (Susan Williams) (05/02/86)
> >No to net.house. Let's move the house stuff to net.rec.wood... I vote yes for net.house. What does roofing and plumbing and tiling and installing driveways etc. have to do with woodwork?
topher@cyb-eng.UUCP (Topher Eliot) (05/05/86)
> > ... stain bleeds through latex paint ... > > What to do is paint the stain with lacquer--not any other kind of varnish!! > Then paint as usual. The same treatment works for bleeding knots in wood. This is quite different from all the advice on the subject that I have ever received, and from what I have (successfully) done in the past. What I have been told to use is SHELLAC. What I have used is "stain killer" which sure looks like white shellac to me. It is available in 8-oz cans. Use a cheap brush and throw it away when you're done. We used this in house I occupied where we were convinced that some former resident had died there while engaged in an orange-juice fight. The ghost kept coming back and leaving dribbles (not just stains, but 3-dimensional drips) of orange stuff all over the plaster (not wood). This would wash off with soap and water (!), but required a coat of stain-killer to keep it from coming back. Exceedingly weird. Cheers, Topher Eliot Cyb Systems, Austin, TX (512) 835-2266 {gatech,harvard,ihnp4,nbires,seismo,ucb-vax}!ut-sally!cyb-eng!topher
pmd@cbdkc1.UUCP (Paul M. Dubuc) (05/07/86)
In article <2636@decwrl.DEC.COM> kolling@decwrl.DEC.COM (Karen Kolling) writes: > >Can't some network guru get net.house started? Meanwhile, here're >two house questions: I think net.house is a good idea too. >1. Was answered by someone else. >2. There's a large water stain on a plaster ceiling (guess why...) >My understanding is that water stains bleed thru paint unless you do >something special -- what? The old paint is latex and I'd like the new >top coat, at least, to be latex. Thanks in advance. Paint the stain with some shellac (sp?) and let that dry. Then paint the ceiling as you normally would. -- Paul Dubuc cbdkc1!pmd
mike@amdcad.UUCP (Mike Parker) (05/08/86)
In article <823@cyb-eng.UUCP> topher@cyb-eng.UUCP (Topher Eliot) writes: >> > ... stain bleeds through latex paint ... >> >> What to do is paint the stain with lacquer--not any other kind of varnish!! >> Then paint as usual. The same treatment works for bleeding knots in wood. > >This is quite different from all the advice on the subject that I have ever >received, and from what I have (successfully) done in the past. What I >have been told to use is SHELLAC. What I have used is "stain killer" which >sure looks like white shellac to me. It is available in 8-oz cans. Use a >cheap brush and throw it away when you're done. > I agree, never heard of lacquer to hlod down stains, only shellac. Instead of the throw-away brush ( it's true, they are a pain to clean ) how about spray shellac? I have used spray shellac sucessfully on stains on textured ceilings as well as flat surfaces. It costs more in large quantities, but for one stain, it's cheaper than can shellac and a throw-away brush. mike -- UUCP: {ucbvax,decwrl,ihnp4,allegra}!amdcad!mike ARPA: amdcad!mike@decwrl.dec.com
wtm@bunker.UUCP (Bill McGarry) (05/08/86)
I'm all for a net.house.
Bill McGarry
{decvax, ittatc, philabs, watmath}!bunker!wtmokinaka@ssc-bee.UUCP (Nathan Okinaka) (05/09/86)
> > > >No to net.house. Let's move the house stuff to net.rec.wood... > > I vote yes for net.house. What does roofing and plumbing and > tiling and installing driveways etc. have to do with woodwork? Add another yes vote for net.house!
jnp@calmasd.UUCP (05/10/86)
Yes for net.house
--
These opinions are solely mine and in no way reflect those of my employer.
...{ucbvax|decvax}!sdcsvax!calmasd!jnp jnp@calmasd.UUCP GE/Calma San Diegotopher@cyb-eng.UUCP (Topher Eliot) (05/10/86)
I said: > >What I have used is "stain killer" which > >sure looks like white shellac to me. It is available in 8-oz cans. Use a > >cheap brush and throw it away when you're done. > > > Someone said: > Instead > of the throw-away brush ( it's true, they are a pain to clean ) how about > spray shellac? Indeed spray shellac sounds like a fine idea. Cheers, Topher Eliot Cyb Systems, Austin, TX (512) 835-2266 {gatech,harvard,ihnp4,nbires,seismo,ucb-vax}!ut-sally!cyb-eng!topher
licsak@hsi.UUCP (05/10/86)
> > > >No to net.house. Let's move the house stuff to net.rec.wood... > > I vote yes for net.house. What does roofing and plumbing and > tiling and installing driveways etc. have to do with woodwork? Only if your roofing, plumbing, tile and driveways are all wood. What if you live in brick house? Count one more vote for net.house. Don in New Haven -30-
ayers@ecn-pc.UUCP (Gregory M Ayers) (06/16/86)
This is another yes vote. I recently purchased a house and could
use advice in this news group, especially pertaining to concrete
work. For instance, how do you calculate a yard of concrete and
what thickness should a driveway and garage floor be? Thanks
for any help out there.
- Greg Ayers
Purdue Universityelw@netexa.UUCP (E. L. Wiles) (06/17/86)
I vote NO, you've already got a "net.consumers.house" out there! USE IT! -- E. L. Wiles @ NetExpress Comm. Inc. Vienna, Virginia. "Opinions?....Opinions?....WHAT Opinions?!?"
jeepcj2a@fluke.UUCP (06/30/86)
Yes vote.