mauney@ncsu.UUCP (10/13/83)
Another question to get this group started, and bring people
out of the woodwork, so to speak:
What is your favorite finish for fine wood? In general,
and for tables in particular.
I am building two tables at the moment (one is awaiting aquisition
of hardware for assembly, the other is just starting). One is
an end table table to sit next to my favorite chair and hold
my magazine, my drink, and maybe a lamp. The other is a larger
table for a sewing machine. Both are of cherry. The construction
may be mediocre, but the wood is beautiful.
Now then, reading in various books I find that:
Shellac is a great finish, but not durable enough for tables.
In particular, water and alcohol leave marks, although the
finish is easily repaired.
Oil is nice, but never gets completely dry, so a poor choice for
something that paper or cloth will be sitting on; an oil finish
tends to bleed on a warm day.
Lacquer is hard to deal with.
Varnish dries slowly, making a dust a big problem, and it may discolor
in a fairly short time.
Wax doesn't provide much protection by itself.
And then there are all the proprietary formulas, like Deft and Formby's
and Minwax, which are some combination of the above.
So. What finish do you like to put on a table? Are the trademark formulas
better than buying straight tung or linseed oil (for any kind of furniture)?
If God could make so many nifty kinds of trees, why couldn't he make them
self-finishing while he was at it?
Replies to the net would be appropriate.
Jon Mauney
ncsu!mauneysnafu@ihuxi.UUCP (Dave Wallis) (10/24/83)
I have been involved with wood working since I was about 9 years old
(now 23) and this is what I have found:
1) Oil finish is the choice for fine work (black walnut jewelry box
etc.) but is not very practical for furniture. Wood needs to be re-oiled
occaisonally if the wood is subject to wear or lots of washings, and
it doesn't provide protection from wear or scratches. Oil finish does
not really dry (like varnish) but is absorbed into the wood.
The oil I generally use is simply boiled linseed oil, thinned for the
first application, full strength for any subsequent coats. I just pour
the oil directly on the wood and rub it in with my hand until the wood
absorbs as much as it will.
2) Deft (trademark of somebody, probably) is a very good choice for
furniture. It is very easy to apply, drys quickly, and provides a
durable finish. As far as I can tell, it is very similar to varnish,
but somewhat easier to apply. Deft is usually a bit more expensive
than varnish, but its ease of application and consistent results make
it my choice.
3) I generally use varnish, because Deft is not available loaclly (at
I can't find it - local is the Chicago area). I have used every thing
from premium quality spar varnish to some really cheapies, and I have
not noticed much difference. I recently finished a bookshelf with "Mr.
Thinzit" exterior gloss varnish, and found it to be a good varnish
that was easy to apply. The exterior varnish is resistant to water and
most other things you are likely to spill on a table, and the finish
is hard enough to resist scratches and chips.
4) I have used lacquer on occaision, but it is difficult to apply and
does not generally wear as well as varnish or Deft. It is difficult to
get a good finish with a brush - a better quality finish requires
spraying many thinned coats with a good paint sprayer. A well applyed
lacquer finish is very pretty however, and can show off pretty wood
grain a little better than varnish.
--
D. Wallis (insert snappy signature here)
AT&T Western Electric, Naperville Il.
(312) 979-5894dthk@mhuxd.UUCP (10/26/83)
I have had good success with Formby's Tung Oil finishes. After staining I apply several light coats of tung oil by hand, rubbing it in well and steel wooling lightly between coats. It takes about 3-4 coats to produce a satisfactory finish. You can get tung oil in either high gloss or satin luster. I have done several pieces of furniture (mostly maple) this way and have been very pleased with the results. Don Hawkins AT&T-BL Murray Hill NJ mhuxd!dthk (201)-582-6517