[net.rec.wood] Our favourite strippers.

martin@dciem.UUCP (Martin Tuori) (11/01/83)

This is a summary of our experiences at stripping layers of paint off
old furniture, doors, etc. I want to start by warning you not to use
a particular brand of chemical stripper, and then tell you what we
have found effective.

You've probably seen the ads for the product that claims to 'peel off
paint just like paper', 'ends sanding, scraping, spraying, chipping, steel-wool
forever'. We've tried it, and didn't think it was worth the money, time
or hassle. It comes as a powder, to be mixed with water. It also comes with
a special cloth that is laid over the goop, and helps it peel off.
The powder is very hard to control, and burns noses like crazy.
The process left a lot of goop behind, that had to be scraped up.
What the ad doesn't tell you is that you are supposed to finish with
a rinse of vinegar and water; I don't like putting water on wood.
All in all, we will never use it again.

What DO we like? Stripping is hard work. The fastest way we've found
for getting the bulk off is to use a heat gun and a good scraper.
Black and Decker has a gun that works great; it's roughly like a hair
dryer, but much hotter. It is better than the older heat element
devices, which do not have fans. They obscure your vision, and heat
the surface beyond the burning point of most paints. If you're lucky,
the original finish was a varnish or shellac, and the paint hasn't
worked its way into the grain of the wood. 98% of the paint comes off
with heat.... and patient work.

For the next step, we use a high quality chemical stripper. The brand
we prefer is Goudey's; it comes as a pourable jelly. Spread it on very thin,
and scrape it up along with most of the rest of the paint, varnish, etc.

The final step removes the residual paint stripper. Rub the wood with
lacquer thinner, using 000 or 0000 steel wool (you may have to look around
for steel wool this fine -- it's not the usual household grade).
This leaves the wood clean and dry, without removing all the surface
colour and texture (patina). Once it dries thoroughly, the wood is
ready for finishing.

It's hard work, but the results can be worth it. We've done several pieces
of furniture, two doors and a fireplace. They fairly glow.

It should be clear that the chemicals involved should be treated with
respect. If you must work indoors, open all the windows and doors you can,
and use a large fan to assist the wind. Fumes can be heavier than air,
and in sufficient density can be ignited by a furnace or water heater
pilot light. Rubber gloves are a must.

Your comments would be welcome; post them to the this newsgroup.

				Martin Tuori, Barbara Arlow
				..!utzoo!dciem!martin

ark@rabbit.UUCP (11/03/83)

I have not used it personally, but my parents
have used something called "Zip-Strip" and
swear by it.  I've watched it at work.  Put the
goop on the surface, let it sit 15 minutes, then
scrape it and the paint off with steel wool.

Wear rubber gloves, PLEASE.