warren@ihnss.UUCP (Warren Montgomery) (12/19/83)
a while back there was a good discussion of finishing techniques. I am nearing completion of a large oak project which I plan to finish by staining and sealing, and applying several coats of wax. I have a few things left to decide and would appreciate any advice from someone with experience: 1) I have heard several recommendations to stain and seal the wood before final assembly, to avoid having excess glue in the joints cause the stain not to take. Doesn't this significantly reduce the strengh of the joint? What about other techniques for getting rid of excess glue. 2) I have in the past tried a couple of wood fillers (plastic wood and elmers wood filler, I think) in stained projects with limited success. Getting the filler to take the stain to the right degree is hard. Any suggestions for those minor fixes that always seem to be the most prominent part of the project? 3) I have several spots where the grain tore out during surfacing or planing, leaving deep pits in the surface. It's not reall practical to sand down that far. Any suggestions on inconspicouos repairs? -- Warren Montgomery ihnss!warren IH x2494
snafu@ihuxi.UUCP (Dave Wallis) (12/20/83)
I'll give you my versions of solutions in order... >>>> I have heard several recommendations to stain and seal the >>>> wood before final assembly, to avoid having excess glue in >>>> the joints cause the stain not to take. Doesn't this >>>> significantly reduce the strength of the joint? What about >>>> other techniques for getting rid of excess glue. You should always use enough glue to ensure that it oozes out of the joint. This ensures that there is enough glue to fill all the little gaps in the joint and makes for a good strong joint (but lots of glue is NEVER a good substitute for an accurate joint!). The trick is to keep a soft rag that is very wet (but not dripping a lot) nearby. After the joint has been clamped or at least tightly pushed together, wipe off the excess glue with the wet rag. Change to a clean spot of the rag frequently, and wipe the joint until all of the oozed out glue is gone. This only works for water soluble glues (white glue, Elmers Wood Glue, or the like) which is the way to go (except for specific instances where it must be waterproof) since water based glues are very easy to work with, and provide a very strong joint. If, when you stain the piece, you find small glue marks that wont stain, it is possible to sand the glue off (it's easy to find when you stain it!) and then stain that spot again. >>>> I have in the past tried a couple of wood fillers (plastic >>>> wood and elmers wood filler, I think) in stained projects >>>> with limited success. Getting the filler to take the stain >>>> to the right degree is hard. Any suggestions for those >>>> minor fixes that always seem to be the most prominent part >>>> of the project? For small spots (e.g. finish nail holes, little dings) the best way to hide them is to use wax filler sticks. These are basically crayons fro wood, and should be applied after the piece has been varnished. They come in quite an assortment of colors, and normally you can make the small holes completely disappear. Screw holes can be covered up by ornamental plugs, if they fit the flavor of the piece. Simple plugs can be cut by a plug cutter bit for your drill, or you can buy the more ornate ones from a good lumber yard or hardware store. By the way, to get end-grain not to stain too dark, there are two tricks you can use: 1) sand the end-grain very smooth - to the point of being shiny. it looks better sanded well, and will stain the same color as the rest of the wood. 2) rub the end grain with linseed oil before you stain it. >>>> I have several spots where the grain tore out during >>>> surfacing or planing, leaving deep pits in the surface. >>>> It's not reall practical to sand down that far. Any >>>> suggestions on inconspicuous repairs? There are a few possibilities here: 1) don't buy wood with deep pits in it. 2) If you plane it yourself, always cut with the grain, not against (guess I really need a picture here to explain this one!). 3) use a wood filler (see first question). Hope these suggestions help. I was starting to wonder if this group was dead! Heres a question of my own: Does anyone know a good source for *quality* hardwood veneer? Either locally (Chicago, Il. area) or through mail order will do. I hope we can get some good, rousing discussions going. How about a controversial wood-related topic? How about this: I think Oak is the best all-around wood for building *anything*! Bye for now! -- D. Wallis ihnp4!ihuxi!snafu AT&T Western Electric, Naperville Il. (312) 979-5894
ell@linus.UUCP (Edward L. Lafferty) (12/25/83)
I think there is some confusion in terminology. When a finishing book or instruction says to "use a wood filler", it does not mean stuff to fill nail holes like plastic wood. (Actually, that should NEVER be used in good furniture work. You can't stain it properly. It is only for painted things and carpentry.) Wood filler for finishing is a compound made from silex in a base of mineral spirits. It can be purchased from Woodcraft Supply Corp., Constantine's, and some good paint stores. You put in on, usually after staining, with a brush, let it dry a bit and then rub it off with burlap or other rough cloth. This "fills" the pores of the wood so that you can then varnish over it and get a very smooth surface. You can color the filler or buy it colored.