[net.rec.wood] What to look for in buying a table saw?

rcd@opus.UUCP (03/05/84)

Can someone suggest particular things to look (out) for in buying a table
saw?  Any particular recommendations of manufacturers to seek or avoid?
I'm talking about a reasonably serious one; it seems 10" is a good size.

A particular question:  Is there any benefit of belt-drive over
direct-drive (or vice-versa), as long as a direct-drive motor has overload
protection?
-- 

{hao,ucbvax,allegra}!nbires!rcd

warren@ihnss.UUCP (Warren Montgomery) (03/05/84)

1)	Ask yourself what you expect to be cutting most of the time,
	since no one saw really does it all well and this will make
	a big difference in what you want.  If you want precision on
	small pieces for cabinetry, you don't necessarily want a big
	saw.  On the other hand if you want to be able to hack up
	4X8 sheets of plywood and cut 4" lumber, then you need a big
	blade.  I personally think you do better getting a
	relatively small but precise table saw and a big cheapo
	circular saw to hack up the lumber with than trying to do
	that all on one saw.
	
2)	In general, direct drive is cheaper and smaller than belt
	drive, but will have more limited cutting depth for the same
	size blade.  They also can be harder to adjust, since you
	are moving the whole weight of the motor, not just a pulley
	with a little tension on it.  I've never switched pulley's
	on my saw to change the speed, but I it looks useful if you
	cut a wider variety of materials and want either very fast
	or very slow blade speeds.  On the other hand, the
	compactness of direct drive saws is convenient.  I once
	attended a woodworking workshop on table saw cuts, and the
	instructor brought his saw (a very old sears model) to the
	workshop in his trunk, and set it up in about 5 minutes. 
	Very handy if you want to move it or can't have it set up at
	all times.  Again, know what you want it for and it should
	be easy to see if the saw that you want  
	
3)	Make sure that the arbor is large enough to take any
	attachments you want.  I suspect that this isn't much of a
	problem, but it takes some doing to get some of my
	attachments on my old saw which has a rather
	short 1/2" arbor.
	
4)	As with other tools, much of what you pay for in more expensive
	models is greater durability.  If you plan to use it a lot
	or keep it a long time, make sure that the motor has ball
	bearings and easily replaceable brushes, and that all parts
	are sturdy enough to take being hit by falling tools or
	boards propelled by kickbacks and not get out of allignment.
	
As far as brands, my only experience is with sears craftsman stuff,
which has been quite positive.  My own saw is over 30 years old, and
it is still possible to get replacement parts and attachments,
though it's probably getting difficult.  (Last year they located a
part by contacting that factory that had made it and since ceased to
supply pieces to sears, but someone found 3 of them on a shelf in an
old storeroom and sold me one at the 1951 price!)

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	ihnss!warren
	IH x2494