snafu@ihuxi.UUCP (Dave Wallis) (04/26/84)
Never, never use a finish like stain or varnish on wood items that will be used with food! I generally use either boiled linseed oil or regular vegetable oil for my cutting boards. Apply either liberally, rub it in, and let the oil absorb into the wood for a while before wiping off. You will need to reapply oil as the wood dries out from washing, etc. Another technique I have used quite successfully is to wax the cutting board. Warm the wood gently over a hot plate or electric stove burner, and rub parafin wax on the heated wood until it melts and soaks in. Repeat this several times, let the wood cool, and buff with a soft cloth (rub off any exess wax - there should not be a thick layer of wax on the wood). This provides a very durable and pretty finish, especially for a tight grained wood like maple. -- Dave Wallis ihnp4!ihuxi!snafu AT&T Technologies, Inc. (312) 979-5894
rcd@opus.UUCP (Dick Dunn) (04/26/84)
<> >...the end product will be used with food, what would be a good finish? >Is plain mineral oil good enough, or should I try to seal the wood >as well? Mineral oil is OK for re-doing the protection on wood to be used with food, but it's not really up to the job of initial protection for some types of food-related wood items. (BTW, he's right - be sure you use MINERAL oil for re-oiling cutting boards and such. Most furniture oils are quite toxic and remain so for a long time. Vegetable (cooking) oils will turn rancid.) There are a few finishes available which are designed specifically for use in contact with foods - those that are will note "FDA approved for..." on the label. -- ...Cerebus for dictator! Dick Dunn {hao,ucbvax,allegra}!nbires!rcd (303) 444-5710 x3086
wmartin@brl-vgr.ARPA (Will Martin ) (04/30/84)
Just about all the woodworkers' supplies & tool catalogs I've seen have carried one brand or another of "Salad Bowl Finish" or "Cutting Board Finish" specifically designed to be used on wood items in contact with food. They claim FDA approval for the ingredients used. (The most interesting thing about these catalog entries, though, is the tiny little picture or cut of the can of the product. You can ALWAYS see a warning label or notice on the can, too small and blurred to read, which implies that this stuff is just as deadly as every other product you buy these days... Actually, I think this applies to the lethality of the solvents carrying the material, and they evaporate, leaving only safe stuff on the wood. [Safe until ten years from now, when they find out that previously-considered-safe item "x" is incredibly deadly and will give you some loathsome incurable condition...]) Will
mauney@ncsu.UUCP (Jon Mauney) (05/02/84)
Another article from FineWoodWorking sometime last year (what issue you ask? Buy 'em all and find out, I suggest) promotes Walnut Oil as a finish. Like Tung and Linseed Oils, walnut oil will dry to a hard finish (and like tung and linseed, it takes a long time to do so). Walnut oil is apparently edible, being sold in grocery stores, and the price is not bad, compared to pure tung oil. This is not an endorsement. I've never tried it. -- _Doctor_ Jon Mauney, mcnc!ncsu!mauney \__Mu__/ North Carolina State University
sdo@u1100a.UUCP (Scott Orshan) (05/02/84)
My butcher block table, made by Catskill Craftsmen, came with a pamphlet answering some common questions. Here's what they say about the oil: "Q - What kind of oil should I use on my table? How often? A - We recommend the Catskill Craftsmen's "Fair Oil" while many recommend mineral oil. "Fair Oil" is a mixture of FDA approved ingredients of which the base is highly refined linseed oil with drying agents and wax added. These additions as well as the refined oil allow for better penetration of the wood and faster drying. The linseed oil actually hardens within the wood for lasting protection. Mineral Oil enhances the color of the wood and gives short term protection. However, mineral oil imparts little lasting protection to your table. Also, be careful in selecting mineral oil to choose a non-toxic or FDA approved mineral oil. Boiled Linseed Oil is an acceptable oil to use on your table; however, since it is not highly refined nor does it have drying agents, it is more difficult to work with than our "Fair Oil". If excess oil is not wiped off it will leave a tacky surface on the wood. Vegetable Oil - This is as saticfactory to use as mineral oil and is normally readily available. However, as mineral oil, provides only nominal protection for your table. If you use "Fair Oil" or other linseed oil based products, the old adage of once a week for the first month and once a month for the first year would be proper. After this point your table will have developed a rich golden glow. From our experience we have found that once a month for the first few months is sufficient. After this point the wood is totally sealed and needs little further protection." Scott Orshan {ihnp4,allegra,pyuxn}!u1100a!sdo