dthk@mhuxd.UUCP (D. T. Hawkins) (10/25/85)
I have become convinced that my shop would be greatly enhanced by acquiring a router. I think the plunge type is best for what I may be doing. So---any advice, tips, hints on good/bad brands, etc. would be most welcome. It will be used for home use on a more or less occasional basis--no heavy duty stuff. Many thanks. Don Hawkins, AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ (201)-582-6517 ...ihnp4!mhuxd!dthk
ralphd@teklds.UUCP (Ralph Durtschi) (10/26/85)
> doing. So---any advice, tips, hints on good/bad brands, etc. would be > most welcome. It will be used for home use on a more or less occasional > basis--no heavy duty stuff. > I can make a couple of recommendations: 1. Get at least a 1 1/2 horse. I have a 1 1/2 horse craftsman and if I am using a fairly large bit on oak, maple, or black walnut, the router slows down to an almost un-usable speed. The thing I have to do is make multiple passes while increasing the depth with each pass. 2. Don't buy one with a plastic body. The craftsman has a plastic housing that clamps the motor. The result is (at least with mine) that the motor is not exactly perpendicular with the body so if you are using a flat bottomed bit, one edge cuts a little deeper than the other leaving a little fuzz in the routed out area. Also if you are using a bushing and a template to guide the router, the tool does not go through the exact center of the bushing. 3. Buy bits with the berrings on the ends rather than the solid one-piece type. The solid type tend to burnish or even burn the work where it comes in contact with the rotating guide at the end of the bit. Of corse the berring style costs about 2 or 3 times more but saves you from wasting your time sanding or scraping of the burn marks. Bye for now, Ralph (I still have all my fingers) Durtschi