tonti@ptsfc.UUCP (Guy Tonti) (01/03/86)
I realize that this newsgroup is not exactly for the purpose of answering my question, but it seems to contain the most intelligent responses of the groups I frequently read. Thus my question. I'd like some opinions on removing approximately 50 years of paint buildup on inside-the-house window trim. It is very badly chipped, and I would like to repaint it as smooth as possible. Opinions would be appreciated as to the use of heat guns, etc. Another part of this problem is the replacement of the sash cords, which have almost all broken, and painted over. Any help on their replacement would be most welcome. A good source book for either of these fun tasks would also be quite helpful. Thanks in advance.
ell@linus.UUCP (Edward L. Lafferty) (01/11/86)
I would reccommend against using heat guns on old dry wood. In order to be of much use they would have to be hot enought to scorch the wood and would be very dangerous or at least damaging. A better solution (although to someone with a lot of windows it might not seem to be) is to use a good paint stripper, Strypeze or others, which clean up with water and steel wool (coarse). The few difficult spots can be handled with a shaped scraper -- be careful and sparing with this since it will easily remove the grace from the moldings on the sash and trim. Note: when you repaint (if you don't replace the putty and glass from the other side), don't be afraid to get paint on the glass. It will provide a moisture seal and also will be warmer in the winter. The crack between the glass and the wood can develop a llot of space from expansion and contraction over the years. Sash cords are not difficult to replace and when you replace one cord in an old window you should replace ALL four cords -- top and bottom and both sides. 1. Remove the molding on each inside side. This is the thing that holds the bottom window sash from falling into the room. There are usually a small number of brass oval head screws holding it on. If you do not intend to repaint the room and sash, you should slice the paint joint between these pieces and the side trim with a razor blade before removing the screws to prevent tearout. 2. pull out the bottom sash and if the cord in intact put a nail thru the knot so it won't fall thru the pulley. You will use this to thread the new cord into the pulley. 3. Remove the small wooden panel inside the track that the bottom window rides in. You will have access to the weight from here. 4. Pry out the thin strip that holds the top window in its track. Be careful since this is delicate. 5. Pull out the top sash as you did the bottom trying not to lose the cord. In some cases you may find the cord nailed into the hole in the sash or stapled in. Remove this and you will find the cord will pop right out. (You should probably use a little nail to hold your new cords in the sash -- its easier when replacing the sash.) 6. Using a piece of string and a small weight (nail or screw) you should drop a piece of string thru each pulley and pull it out the bottom. You can use the old cords to do this if they are intact. 7. Find at least one cord from a top and one from a bottom that are intact to use to cut your new cords to length -- take it off the weight and open all the knots so you leave at least that much cord for your new one. If you can't find an intact cord you will have to trial and error the length. It must be just long enough so that the weight drops to the bottom of the channel but does not rest on the floor and when the window is open the pulley does not jam the cord. (Top cords and bottom cords are different lengths). 8. Now just reverse the process. Do the top first. Put the new cords into the weights, thread them up thru the pulley tie a knot at the correct place cut off the excess, place the knot in the hole, secure with a little nail and then carefully replace the sash in the channel. Run it up and down to see if it slides freely. Then replace the thin strip and do the same for the bottom sash. Replace the weight channel covers and the the side moldings. Replace with new screws if needed. 9. And there you are. 10. Take your time and you will be satisfied with the result. One caution: while it may seem overkill to nail the knot into the hole, it is d--- frustrating to finish the whole job, paint the thing and then have the cord pop out of the hole inside the structure when you open the window. You can probably replace the sash lock too for a nice job. Ed Lafferty