[net.micro.cbm] C64 problem

rlb@ncsu.UUCP (Roger Lee Banner) (07/05/84)

     I am posting this for a friend who is having trouble with his C64.

     First off, he has not been able to get a control C () to work or ever
     appear on his monitor.  Has anyone else had this problem?  Does anyone
     have suggestions on how to fix it?

     Second, he is also having trouble rewriting corrected programs to disk.
     How is this done?  Also, how can he delete a program from disk?
     I am inexperienced with the C64 and could not help him.

     Thanks,

     Roger Banner
     ncsu!rlb

abc@brl-sem.ARPA (Brint Cooper ) (11/30/85)

Help!  I have a friend's C64 before me.  Upon power up,
nothing happens except the drive runs for a few seconds.  The
pilot light appears to come up to full brightness initially, 
then suddenly becomes dim.

I have "heard" that there are chronic C64 problems that appear
after the machine is one to two years old.  Is this one of
them?  I'll begin the usual troubleshooting (sans schematics)
in the meantime, but would appreciate any hints.

Has anyone seen this or something similar?

Brint Cooper

	 ARPA:  abc@brl.arpa
	 UUCP:  ...{seismo,decvax,cbosgd}!brl-tgr!abc

-- 
Brint Cooper

	 ARPA:  abc@brl.arpa
	 UUCP:  ...{seismo,decvax,cbosgd}!brl-tgr!abc

wkb@cbsck.UUCP (William K. Brummett) (12/02/85)

  (Sacrifice to the line-eating bug.)

  > Help!  I have a friend's C64 before me.  Upon power up,
  > nothing happens except the drive runs for a few seconds.  The
  > pilot light appears to come up to full brightness initially, 
  > then suddenly becomes dim.
  >   ...
  > Has anyone seen this or something similar?
  > 
  > Brint Cooper
  >    ARPA:  abc@brl.arpa
  >    UUCP:  ...{seismo,decvax,cbosgd}!brl-tgr!abc

        I, too, have experienced what you are desribing.  In my case,
        it was the power supply that was causing the trouble.
        Specifically, the 5-volt regulator failed and was feeding
        almost 8 volts into my 64.

        To check for this problem, unplug the power supply from the
        AC outlet and from the 64.  Plug it back into the AC outlet
        and measure the voltages on the output plug that connects to
        the 64.  You should read +5VDC and ground on one pair of pins
        and 9 V*AC* on another pair.  (Sorry I can't be more specific
        here.  I don't have access to my documentation right now.
        Apparently there are at least two versions of this plug, one
        with four pins and one with seven (3 unused?).)  If one or
        both of these readings is off, you need a new supply.

        After ascertaining that the supply is at fault, determine
        what sort of supply you have.  The newer versions are square,
        sealed, and completely filled with some sort of hardened
        resin or epoxy.  The older ones are about 30% larger, have
        tapered sides and ventilation slots, and are held together
        with screws.  If you have one of the newer versions, you're
        SOL.  Buy a new supply.  If you have an older supply, AND
        it's the 5VDC that's off, there's a cheaper way to go.

        Remove the screws on the underside of the supply and open
        the casing.  Inside you will find a transformer and a small
        circuit board.  The black object bolted to the metal heat
        sink with three leads attached to the circuit board is the
        regulator.  Unsolder it from the board and disconnect it
        from the heatsink.  You will replace it with a variable
        regulator from Radio Shack (an LM-217, I think).  Note: do
        not try to use a common 7805 regulator, as the current
        requirement of a 64 exceeds the output of a 7805.  The 217
        is soldered into the holes left by the old regulator, only
        shifted one hole to the left.  The old regulator was some
        proprietary design and had a wierd pinout.  The far left
        pin of the reglator is connected to the far right hole
        with a piece of wire as shown:

                         |   LM-217   |
                         |____________|
                           ||__||__||___
                           `---||--||--,\
                               ||  ||  ||
        Circuit board holes -> ()  ()  ()

        Connect the new regulator chip to the metal heatsink.
        To the right of the regulator on the circuit board is a
        resistor.  This must be removed and replaced with a small
        potentiometer (I used a miniature 5K multi-turn).  With the
        supply plugged in to an AC outlet (be careful!) adjust the
        pot until the appropriate pin on the output plug reads +5
        VDC.  Reassemble the case and you're done.

        If you are unfortunate enough to have one of the newer,
        sealed units, all may not be lost.  I had one originally,
        but was able to get an older, used one from a dealer's
        service department.  They told me it was broken and gave
        it to me for five bucks, but it worked just fine when I
        replaced the regulator.  By the way, I had considered just
        building a whole new power supply from scratch, but it
        turns out that the transformer used is somewhat wierd also.
        It has one winding that supplies the the 9VAC at about one
        amp and another completely separate 9V winding that is
        center-tapped and half-wave rectified to feed the 5-volt
        regulator at about an amp and a half.  I would have needed
        two separate normal transformers to duplicate this.  I don't
        really know why the two are isolated like that, unless
        Commodore plays tricks with different grounds inside the 64.
        Anyway, I hope this helps you out.


       __________________
       \_|_______________|) ________/^\________
                     | |    `,--,-\_____/-----'     W. Keith Brummett
                   __|_|_____|_/_    ~              AT&T-NS/Bell Labs
                  /__    ======||=(-                Columbus, Ohio
                     `-----------
                                          {anywhere}!cbosgd!cbsck!wkb

       "I'm not sure, but I think we've been insulted." ... "I'm sure."

wrc@whuts.UUCP (CLEGG) (12/03/85)

> Help!  I have a friend's C64 before me.  Upon power up,
> nothing happens except the drive runs for a few seconds.  The
> pilot light appears to come up to full brightness initially, 
> then suddenly becomes dim.
> 
> I have "heard" that there are chronic C64 problems that appear
> after the machine is one to two years old.  Is this one of
> them?  I'll begin the usual troubleshooting (sans schematics)
> in the meantime, but would appreciate any hints.
> 
> Has anyone seen this or something similar?
> 
> Brint Cooper
> 
> 	 ARPA:  abc@brl.arpa
> 	 UUCP:  ...{seismo,decvax,cbosgd}!brl-tgr!abc
> 
> -- 
> Brint Cooper
> 
> 	 ARPA:  abc@brl.arpa
> 	 UUCP:  ...{seismo,decvax,cbosgd}!brl-tgr!abc

  I had a similar problem with my friend's c64. I found that the 5 volt
regulator that is located in the power supply let loose. The voltage on 
that line varied anywhere between 4.5 up to 9.5 volts. The led on the
computer is tied directly to this line and is the reason that it varies.
The bad news is that this 5 volt line feeds all of the RAM and most of 
the other logic chips and if this voltage goes too high then kiss all
those chips goodbye. Even if thay all didn't go, it will be very
difficult to find the ones that did go. Your best bet in this case is
too get repaired by a dealer. There are some places that replace the 
entire board for $55.00 which isn't bad considering that the price of
some of the individual chips is as much as $30.
	One other thing is that the power supply is not repairable
as it is potted and the components can not be accessed. Befor you go too
far I would recommend that you put a voltmeter on the 5 volts from the
power supply. It should measure almost exactly 5 volts and not vary.




						Good luck
						Bill Clegg

jerem@tekgvs.UUCP (Jere Marrs) (12/05/85)

>                                                          In my case,
>        it was the power supply that was causing the trouble.
>
>                                 By the way, I had considered just
>        building a whole new power supply from scratch, but it
>        turns out that the transformer used is somewhat wierd also.
>        It has one winding that supplies the the 9VAC at about one
>        amp and another completely separate 9V winding that is
>        center-tapped and half-wave rectified to feed the 5-volt
>        regulator at about an amp and a half.  I would have needed
>        two separate normal transformers to duplicate this.         
>

	That is a viable route - the two transformers. I had one that
way. Hook one up to the 9VAC pins and the other to a regulator (LM-309?)
that can handle about 4A. The increased current capability is useful if
you add such things as IEEE interfaces and 80-column adaptors.

	A better way - and this is what I ended up doing - is to replace
the +5 supply by one of those small switching power supplies and use a 9V
transformer for the AC requirements. I used a 10V transformer (door bell)
with an (EPD? EDP?) 5VDC, 4.0A switching power supply and it worked 
beautifully for the year-and-a-half until I got my 128. I was using both
the BusCard II IEEE interface and the BI-80 80-column converter which drew
more current than the 64 alone. It's not as cheap as the linear power
supply, but I think the reliability factor is increased orders of
magnitude.

				Jere M. Marrs
				Tektronix, Inc.
				Beaverton, Oregon
				tektronix!tekgvs!jerem