lizard@nbires.UUCP (05/07/84)
I'm a first time gardener here in Colorado where the ground is
good for growing rocks. Anybody have any suggestions for fertilizer
(preferably organic) for a food garden. My neighbor says manure isn't
good because it's high nitrogen content sends the plants to flower instead
of fruit (actually, he said, "It makes the plants go to tops.").
Thanks,
{allegra|hao|ucbvax}nbires!lizardjohnr@tekig.UUCP (John Rettig) (05/10/84)
The easiest available organic fertilizers (and prices)
I know of are:
Nitrogen sources: Fish meal ($35/100 lb.)
Cottonseed meal (?)
Phosphorous sources: Bone meal ($10/25 lb.)
Rock phosphate (?)
Potassium sources: Kelp meal (?)
Wood ashes (free)
pH adjustment: Dolamite lime ($2/40 lb.)
The first ingredient listed in each catagory is the one I
use. The prices listed may be out of date slightly.
The Pacific Northwest west of the Cascades has typically
highly acidic soil, and the lime helps to neutralize pH.
It may not be necessary in Colorado or elsewhere. The
general proportions I use to mix my ingredients are:
4 parts fish meal
1 part bone meal
1/2 part kelp meal
1/2 part lime
This is not intended for broadcast but rather for spot application
under transplants, under seed rows, etc. Most organic gardening
reference books give much more information than I can produce here.
One geneal word of warning: Organic fertilizer will cost 5-10 times
as much as other types.ajs@hpfcla.UUCP (05/10/84)
> While this is a good one and organic, remember that many people use lots > of weed-killers on their lawns, so you might be getting some of those > chemicals along with the hay. I suggested it, and I do use lots of clippings myself. I used to be concerned about it, but then I realized that most weed killers in common (lawn) use are hormones which kill things like dandelions by growing them to death. The chemicals themselves are probably harmless in weak concentrations, especially if you don't use any clippings for, say, a week after applying them. I'm not an expert on this, so I'm not sure. If anyone knows better, please correct me! I've had no strange side-effects from using clippings, however. From the green fingers, purple ears, and striped tongue of Alan Silverstein PS: You definitely should NOT use fireplace ash, however. Not only is the soil here already too pH in that direction (alkaline?), but often there are nasty chemicals concentrated in it, like heavy metals from colored inks.
ajs@hpfcla.UUCP (05/11/84)
> I'm a first time gardener here in Colorado where the ground is good for > growing rocks. Anybody have any suggestions for fertilizer (preferably > organic) for a food garden. Well, it's not THAT terrible, but it is a heavy clay. One easy and successful trick is to collect lawnmower excretions (grass clippings) from anyone you can, and dump them on thick, and even work them under with a tiller if you want. This time of year everyone is thatching their bluegrass and that generates gobs of nice, fine, dry "hay". Don't put it on too thick to till under, though (more than three inches), if you intend to do so at all. Otherwise, lay it on! After you till it in you may get something that resembles Mexican adobe, especially when it dries. Never fear, soon there will be worm tunnels through it (even though it still looks like black concrete). Clippings are also invaluable in dry climates like ours to hold down water loss, and to stop weeds, and they taste pretty good fried. :-) Amazing how many people send them to the dump! Alan Silverstein, Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Systems Division, Colorado {ihnp4 | hplabs}!hpfcla!ajs, 303-226-3800 x3053, N 40 31'31" W 105 00'43"
ken@hp-pcd.UUCP (05/23/84)
Every gardener should listen to his neighbor politely, with an open mind, and then do what you think is right in your heart. Every gardener digs, sows, and weeds to the beat of his own drummer. I would classify your neighbor's remark about manure as advice to ignore. Manure is coveted by organic gardeners. I have never seen a person appply too much manure to the soil. However, (and here lies the truth in your neighbors remarks) it is best to compost manure, before applying it to the soil. Even at that I have seen people apply 6 inch thick layers of manure on their gardens in spring. Work it all into the soil, and achieve bountiful crops. Realize that the nitrogen content of manure varies greatly, depending on the type of manure used. Horse, hen, sheep, and rabbit are 'hot' manures, high in nitrogen. Cow and hog manures are relatively low in nitrogen content. You especially want manure, if the land as you say, is great for growing rocks. You need to add alot of organic material to the soil to lighten it up. About organic fertilizer: Try any/all/some of the following: Rock Phosphate (Ph basic Dolomitic Lime (Ph basic Kelp Bone Meal ( 3% nitrogen, 25% phosphoric acid Cottonseed Meal (Ph acid, 7% nitrogen, 3% potash Granite dust (5% potash Lawn clippings (nitrogen rich Leaves (often acidic Wood Ashes (alkaline, 7% potash Straw Manure -Ken Bronstein hp-pcd!ken
saquigley@watmath.UUCP (Sophie Quigley) (05/23/84)
I noticed that the original poster specifically asked for "organic"
fertilisers. One of the suggestions was to use lawn clippings as hay.
While this is a good one and organic, remember that many people use
lots of weed-killers on their lawns, so you might be getting some of those
chemicals along with the hay.
Sophie Quigley
...!{clyde,ihnp4,decvax,allegra}!watmath!saquigleythomas@utah-gr.UUCP (Spencer W. Thomas) (05/25/84)
To help lighten up your awful clay soil, you might try digging in a bunch of vermiculite and sand. Should make a difference. I think a good ratio to try is about 20% (vermiculite). Lots of compost, too. =Spencer