juliom@ihlpa.UUCP (j. medrano) (06/27/85)
be given regarding how to get started with a garden and other related info.
Some questions that I have are as follows:
1) Is it too late to start planting flowers/vegetables from seeds.
2) What is best to kill off weeds from a lawn.
3) What is the best fertilizer to use on a lawn and garden.
4) Flowers and vegetables that are easily grown and cared for by a rookie.
I would appreciate any info that you may have about anything a rookie
should know to get a good start on a garden such as how often to water any-
thing and other things like that. As you can see, I really am a rookie.
Thanks in advance,
Julio Medrano
AT&T Bell Labsjuliom@ihlpa.UUCP (j. medrano) (06/27/85)
Sorry about the transmission of the last article. Here it is again!
I'm a new gardener as we just bought a house. I need as much info as can
as can be given to get started with a garden and other related info.
Some questions that I have are as follows:
1) Is it too late to start planting flowers/vegetables from seeds.
2) What is best to kill off weeds from a lawn.
3) What is the best fertilizer to use on a lawn and garden.
4) Flowers and vegetables that are easily grown and cared for by a rookie.
I would appreciate any info that you may have about anything a rookie
should know to get a good start on a garden such as how often to water any-
thing and other things like that. As you can see, I really am a rookie.
Thanks in advance,
Julio Medrano
AT&T Bell Labs
P.S. I also forgot to mention that I live in Northlake which is a suburb of
Chicago, Ill. Thanks again!
Julio Medrano
ihlpa!juliomkev@voder.UUCP (Kevin Hoskins) (07/03/85)
> I'm a new gardener.... > 1) Is it too late to start planting flowers/vegetables from seeds. > I would appreciate any info.... Well, my recommendation to you is to purchase a copy of "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholemew. This book is published by Rodale Press and details how any one can "produce" a very satisfactoy garden on a small area of soil. Also included are techniques that can be used to grow vegies through out the year. (Yes, even in a snowy Chicago January.) Two other items you should be aware of. Make an inquirey to your local public television station (WTTW) about whether they broadcast a program with the same title as the book. It is a very useful program in which Mel highlights some important points in his book. The other thing to do is write to him. He will send you a pamphlet with more useful suggestions to help you achieve the best production from your squarefoot garden. He even includes a small sample of packaged seeds to get you started! I do not have his address handy, but you should be able to reach him through his publisher or WGBH television in Boston (they handle his half-hour program). Have fun with your new garden.
bill@utastro.UUCP (William H. Jefferys) (07/07/85)
> Well, my recommendation to you is to purchase a copy of > > "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholemew. I've been using this system for three years now and endorse it thoroughly. The method produces a very high yield in a very small space. You can order the book by calling the following number toll-free with credit card in hand: 1-800-MEL-BOOK I don't remember the address but the show airs this afternoon and I will try to remember to write it down. -- "Men never do evil so cheerfully and so completely as when they do so from religious conviction." -- Blaise Pascal Bill Jefferys 8-% Astronomy Dept, University of Texas, Austin TX 78712 (USnail) {allegra,ihnp4}!{ut-sally,noao}!utastro!bill (uucp) bill%utastro.UTEXAS@ut-sally.ARPA (ARPANET)
bill@utastro.UUCP (William H. Jefferys) (07/08/85)
Followup to my article.
To get a pamphlet describing the Square Foot method, a listing of PBS
stations that carry the show, and a free packet of seeds, send a
self-addressed, stamped, *BUSINESS* sized envelope to
Square Foot Gardening
Georgetown CT 06829
--
"Men never do evil so cheerfully and so completely as when they do so from
religious conviction." -- Blaise Pascal
Bill Jefferys 8-%
Astronomy Dept, University of Texas, Austin TX 78712 (USnail)
{allegra,ihnp4}!{ut-sally,noao}!utastro!bill (uucp)
bill%utastro.UTEXAS@ut-sally.ARPA (ARPANET)nemo@rochester.UUCP (Wolfe) (07/09/85)
> Some questions that I have are as follows: > 1) Is it too late to start planting flowers/vegetables from seeds. Depends on what you want to grow. You could still get blooms from marigolds if you planted them now, and perhaps even morning glories. Some of the short season squash would probably produce before frost (try zuccini or kuta) and beets would also be a reasonable bet. Some relatively fast-growing herbs, such as summer savory or basil may work. There are also some late season crops that are usually second plantings, like spinach, peas, and other greens, but these are usually planted a bit later in the summer (end of July to early August). You might also consider planning (and planting) some perennial beds. Asparagus, berry bushes and perennial herbs spring to mind here in the way of edibles. As for flowers, there are too many to list - get a seed catalogue or five (Burpee, Park and Harris are all pretty good). Also, check out gardens in your area - if you see stuff you really like, ask the gardener what it is and where to get it and how to care for it. That will be the best way to determine what you want in yhour garden and may also get you a few free transplants (I know that I'd rather give cuttings and thinnings to another gardener than toss them in the compost). > 2) What is best to kill off weeds from a lawn. How many weeds? If only a few, then I'm for loosening up the soil with a fork near the weed and gently pulling it out (to keep the tender little roots intact) then stomping all over it! (the stomping discourages it from growing new roots where you throw it) I can't say about chemicals, except that you should be carefull about non-grass plants near the sprayed area that you wish to keep, and that you should be very carefull about washing up afterwards and observe the restrictions about not letting kids or animals play on the lawn for X days after treatment. (read label - twice) > 3) What is the best fertilizer to use on a lawn and garden. Once you get a compost pile going, that stuff is really great! For the short term, most any fertilizer will do the trick, but it depends on the needs of your plants and the soil. Be sure not to overfertilize (a common problem with novices). At least as important as the fertilizer is the soil acidity level. Either find a place that will test samples for you (ie: the agricultural extension), usually for a nominal cost, or get a home soil test kit and be real picky about following instructions. Some important nutrients are only available in a small pH range, so no matter how much fertilizer you put down, the plants won't get what they need. A little reading is indicated here - see the local library. > 4) Flowers and vegetables that are easily grown and cared for by a rookie. Those mentioned in part (1) fit into this category. Peas, beans, sunflowers, corn (if you have the room), beets, radishes, squash (all varieties), tomatoes, onions, spinach, lettuce, kale, mustard, strawberries, raspberries, and cukes come to mind for veggies. For herbs, try dill, basil, oregano, parsley, chives, mint (look out for these - they are very invasive), sage, tarragon, savory, borage (self seeds, like dill). Easy flowers include marigolds, nasturtiums (these are also edible - the leaves are a little peppery like some cresses), morning glories, allysium, portulaca, zinnias, dahlias, bachelors buttons, and sweet peas. > I would appreciate any info that you may have about anything a rookie > should know to get a good start on a garden such as how often to water any- > thing and other things like that. When the plants look wilted, they are beggin for water. Otherwise, it depends on the weather and your particular location. If it is windy and doesn't rain, you'll have to water more often (maybe once a day). If you mulch, you will need to water less often. When starting seedlings or transplants, with poorly developed root systems, you will need to water frequently. In the sunnier parts of my garden, I need to water about three times a week if it doesn't rain, and every day if it is warm and windy. I try to give some plants water every day if it hasn't rained (like the peppers and eggplants). > As you can see, I really am a rookie. So were we all. > Thanks in advance, > Julio Medrano Best of luck to you. Try starting out small so the garden doesn't overwhelm you (the first year or two that a piece of lawn is turned into a garden are more difficult due to the necessity of digging and lots of weeding) Then expand as your time and inclination allow. Have fun! Nemo -- Internet: nemo@rochester.arpa UUCP: {decvax, allegra, seismo, cmcl2}!rochester!nemo Phone: [USA] (716) 275-5766 work, 232-4690 home USMail: 104 Tremont Circle; Rochester, NY 14608 School: Department of Computer Science; University of Rochester; Rochester, NY 14627
bulko@ut-sally.UUCP (William C. Bulko) (07/10/85)
> > Well, my recommendation to you is to purchase a copy of > > "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholemew. > You can order the book by calling the following number toll-free with > credit card in hand: > 1-800-MEL-BOOK > I don't remember the address but the show airs this afternoon and I > will try to remember to write it down. This book is available at B. Daltons or Waldenbooks bookstores. It also comes in a paperback edition which is cheaper, but *DO* write for the free pamphlet which contains the listing of stations and times when the program is broadcast. You get a free packet of seeds with the pamphlet, which is nice! Joyce c/o bulko@ut-sally -- _______________________________________________________________________________ "To err is human; to admit it is not." Bill Bulko Department of Computer Sciences The University of Texas {ihnp4,harvard,gatech,ctvax,seismo}!ut-sally!bulko _______________________________________________________________________________
rws@gypsy.UUCP (07/16/85)
While you are waiting for your "square foot gardening", run out and get some seeds for lettuce, bush beans, summer squash, peas, and corn. The formula for deciding the last date to plant something is: (date you expect it to die) - (days to maturity + 14) The 14 allows for the shorter days you get in late summer and fall. I planted the above items last week because lettuce and peas are cool weather crops that can survive a moderate frost bush beans and summer squash grow very fast I wanted to gamble on the corn If you have a choice of varieties, get the one with the fewest "days". Water the seedlings every day, in the morning, with a light, fine spray so that the seeds don't wash away. Once the plants are mostly up, taper off your watering to twice a week, but -this is important- use a sprinkler, so that you can shower them lightly for about half an hour. Watering more often will give you shallow-rooted plants that can't survive occasional neglect in the hot Illinois Augusts. (I grew up in Glen Ellyn ...) Watering in the morning or mid-day will reduce problems with mold, fungus, and other things that like evening dampness. Good luck! Bob Schwanke Siemens Research Princeton, NJ 08540-6668 seismo!princeton!siemens!rws