jlw (05/08/83)
There are a few simple rules of thumb to remember about buying a bicycle. First find a good bike shop. Don't buy a bike out of a department or discount store. Second Assuming that one is looking for an adult's 'ten-speed'., buy the least expensive bike that the shop has with all alloy components. This should not be more than $300-350 for a bike which will satisfy all but the most experienced or specialized riders. I also assume since this question was asked that the asker is inexperienced in riding. Third, get the bike fitted properly. There are more aspects to fitting a bike than the basic 19", 21", or 23" which is the length of the seat tube and is taken to be the "size" of the bike. Things to look for in a first "quality" bike: - 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 clincher tires. You don't need tubular or "sew-ups" - alloy rims - micro-adjustable seat - cotterless crank arms. - alloy handlebars - alloy hubs - lack of those cutesy brake assist levers - brazed on bosses for water bottles - forged and machined, not stamped, drop-ins. Drop ins are the little brackets at the ends of the front fork arms and the rear ends of the chain and seat stays that the axles slide into. - front and possibly rear quick release wheels - side pull brakes are considered better among the knowing ones, but I don't know why. Bikes are a pretty good buy and most brands offer acceptable models for a price. Custom bikes are out of this world in price. Bare frames for top quality custom, ie made to your size and specifications and not bought ready made out of a store, frames start at about $600 and run to wwell over $1000. Then you have to add all the goodies. This can run another $600 to 1500. Sometimes you can buy almost everything you need in a package. These deals are sometimes referred to as gruppos. Happy Spinning Joe Wood ariel!jlw
pgf (05/09/83)
I didn't see the original, but I'll throw in my two cents anyway... - Get a good (like Avocet) synthetic seat. It should not have metal ribs or springs along it's length. Leather takes too long to break in, and is a nuisance to take care of. - Don't get plastic (like Simplex) derailleurs (sp?). They're nice and light, but feel mushy after a while. SunTour and Shimano are good standards. Be sure what you get can be disassembled most of the way for cleaning and adjustment. Rivets aren't good. - Shift levers should be on the down-tube, not on the gooseneck. - By the way, the ends of the forks (front and rear) are "drop-outs", not "drop-ins". - Side-pull brakes are lighter (2 pieces rather than 3), but may be harder to adjust and center. Paul Fox houxm!pgf