joels@tektools.UUCP (Joel Swank) (06/20/85)
The Vetta chain cleaner is a plastic box that contains 3 brush rollers. To clean a chain, you first fill a small reservoir in the Vetta with cleaning solution such as WD-40. Then clip the Vetta onto the chain near the derailleur. Place some rags below the chain to catch drip and rotate the crank backwards. The brushes will thoroughly clean the chain in a minute or so. Then remove the Vetta and dispose of the cleaner. Wipe the chain and lubricate. I can do all of the above in 10 minutes. List price is $15.95. I bought mine at REI for $12.93. Joel Swank
marc@bmcg.UUCP (Marc Lee) (06/22/85)
> > The Vetta chain cleaner is a plastic box that contains 3 brush rollers. > To clean a chain, you first fill a small reservoir in the Vetta with cleaning > solution such as WD-40. Then clip the Vetta onto the chain near the derailleur. > Place some rags below the chain to catch drip and rotate the crank backwards. > The brushes will thoroughly clean the chain in a minute or so. Then remove > the Vetta and dispose of the cleaner. Wipe the chain and lubricate. I can > do all of the above in 10 minutes. List price is $15.95. I bought mine at > REI for $12.93. > > Joel Swank Any problems with solvent splashing around? From the unit I glanced at in a local bike shop, it doesn't seem like there's much of a seal at the point where the chain exits the cleaner.
jhs@druri.UUCP (ShoreJ) (06/24/85)
Re: no seals on Vetta cleaner In fact, there's no seal at either end of the Vetta cleaner. As suggested, a rag *around* the chain where it exits does the trick nicely. Helpful hint: If you're as klutzy as I am, remember not to tip the cleaner more than about 25 degrees off horizontal or you pour yuk all over yourself! For prospective Vetta buyers: The only actual problem I've experienced (other than yuk-pouring!) has been with a short-cage derailleur. With my Campy Nuovo Record, I can't slip the retaining arm of the cleaner over the derailleur, as shown in the instructions, because it sits against the pulleys and you can't rotate the chain. It does work as shown for my long cage Suntour derailleur-equipped bike. For short cage derailleurs, manually keeping the cleaner in position while rotating the chain a little slower than normal works: unless you have three hands (or a "handy" friend), loosely wrap the rag around the chain, hold the exit end of the cleaner *and* the rag in one hand, counterrotate the crank with the other. -- Jeff Shore @ AT&T ..!ihnp4!druri!jhs "Where worlds collide"
brucec@iddic.UUCP (Bruce W. Cheney) (07/17/85)
The new Vetta Chain Cleaner documentation is particularly vague about what solvents and lubricants to use. Anyone have any suggestions ? I know we had a long discussion last year on chain lubricants, but no one (to my knowledge) was thinking in terms of keeping the chain on the bike while cleaning or lubing it. brucec
rogerh@bocklin.UUCP (07/22/85)
(What solvent to use in the Vetta chain cleaner?) I'm cheap -- I use kerosene. Don't use gasoline, it's flammable and bad to breath. Anybody have a favorite chain lube? I've been using some expensive stuff in a black spray can -- I'd like to find something cheaper and non-aerosol.
dw@yale.ARPA (David Wittenberg) (07/22/85)
Summary: Expires: Sender: Followup-To: Distribution: Keywords: Re: what solvent to use with the VETTA. I use a strong detergent solution (formula 409, fantastic, etc.) and then use alchohol to dry things up. Works well, and there are no nasty fumes. David Wittenberg wittenberg@yale (csnet or arpa) decvax!yale!wittenberg
dw@yale.ARPA (David Wittenberg) (07/29/85)
Summary: Expires: Sender: Followup-To: Distribution: Keywords: In article <1136@druri.UUCP> jhs@druri.UUCP (ShoreJ) writes: > >When it came to oiling/greasing/lubricating/gooping a chain, I used to >be of the old slosh-it-on-until-it-drowns school. Now I clean the chain >as David recommends [although I use `alcohol' instead--sorry, David. :-)], >empty the Vetta Cleaner, then re-fill it with Vetta's conditioner, and >slowly cycle the chain through it once. When done, I drain the stuff back >into the bottle through a funnel/fine filter (cheesecloth works well, too). >It then gets very inexpensive; one bottle could last a full summer or more. > >-- Jeff Shore at ..!ihnp4!druri!jhs > I just started using parafin on my chain. It's cheap (<$2 / lb), you need very little, it's supposed to last a long time (so far I only have 150 miles on it) and it's VERY clean. (I put my chain back on the chain ring, reached for a rag to wipe my hands, and realized that I didn't need it. You really can put your hands on a waxed chain and have no noticeable grease come off. To apply, simply melt the wax in a coffee can (in a double boiler), swirl the chain around in it for a while, and then hang (from a coat hanger) until it solidifies. The chain will be stiff until you break some of the excess wax, but that happens in the first 2 or 3 crank revolutions. -David Wittenberg wittenberg@yale (csnet or arpa) decvax!yale!wittenberg (uucp)
jhs@druri.UUCP (ShoreJ) (07/31/85)
Re: what solvent to use with the VETTA. > I use a strong detergent solution (formula 409, fantastic, etc.) > and then use alchohol to dry things up. Works well, and there are > no nasty fumes. > > David Wittenberg wittenberg@yale (csnet or arpa) Agreed, and it's LOTS cheaper than using the "VETTA Chain Conditioner"! At $3.29 per 8 fl.oz. (locally in Denver), VETTA's concoction approaches JW Red in cost. However.... When it came to oiling/greasing/lubricating/gooping a chain, I used to be of the old slosh-it-on-until-it-drowns school. Now I clean the chain as David recommends [although I use `alcohol' instead--sorry, David. :-)], empty the Vetta Cleaner, then re-fill it with Vetta's conditioner, and slowly cycle the chain through it once. When done, I drain the stuff back into the bottle through a funnel/fine filter (cheesecloth works well, too). It then gets very inexpensive; one bottle could last a full summer or more. Why all that? Because the stuff seems to work as well as any good oil but without the mess, fumes, etc. The chain also seems to pick up less dirt than with oil. Besides, it smells a bit like bubble gum. :-) [Since I've only been using the stuff for a while, <500 road miles, I reserve the right to be wrong!] If anyone else has tried the stuff (Vetta's), I'd like more feedback, too. -- Jeff Shore at ..!ihnp4!druri!jhs "Ackpht!"
becky@cylixd.UUCP (Becky Bates) (08/07/85)
> > In article <1136@druri.UUCP> jhs@druri.UUCP (ShoreJ) writes: > > > >When it came to oiling/greasing/lubricating/gooping a chain, I used to > >be of the old slosh-it-on-until-it-drowns school. Now I clean the chain > >as David recommends [although I use `alcohol' instead--sorry, David. :-)], > >empty the Vetta Cleaner, then re-fill it with Vetta's conditioner, and > >slowly cycle the chain through it once. When done, I drain the stuff back > >into the bottle through a funnel/fine filter (cheesecloth works well, too). > >It then gets very inexpensive; one bottle could last a full summer or more. > > > >-- Jeff Shore at ..!ihnp4!druri!jhs > > > I just started using parafin on my chain. It's cheap (<$2 / lb), you need > very little, it's supposed to last a long time (so far I only have > 150 miles on it) and it's VERY clean. (I put my chain back on the chain > ring, reached for a rag to wipe my hands, and realized that I didn't need > it. You really can put your hands on a waxed chain and have no noticeable > grease come off. > > To apply, simply melt the wax in a coffee can (in a double boiler), swirl > the chain around in it for a while, and then hang (from a coat hanger) > until it solidifies. The chain will be stiff until you break some of the > excess wax, but that happens in the first 2 or 3 crank revolutions. > > -David Wittenberg wittenberg@yale (csnet or arpa) > decvax!yale!wittenberg (uucp) I agree with you wax chain idea and I tried to post a lengthy article on it a month ago which never got out. Here is a more detailed explanation on how to wax a chain. Buy a new chain and soak it in mineral spirits for about a week shaking the jar every day or so to break up any oils originally on the chain. After the chain is clean, remove it from the jar and hang it up to dry a day or so. You may want to hit the chain on a plastic garbage can to get the excess cleaner off it. You then remove your old chain and put it in the mineral spirits to soak. You can recycle mineral spirits by letting the crud settle to the bottom and pouring the top part off to a clean container. Now you must clean your freewheel and any part that touch your chain, clean it throughly so grit won't get into your newly waxed chain. Now melt it a coffee can or double boiler your parafin (wax). Drop dry and cleaned chain into throughly melted wax and stirr with a fork. After your sure it has absorbed as much wax as possible remove it and put it on top of newspaper to cool off. (Be careful it is hot~~~) After the chain has cooled you work the links to insure that all excess wax is removed before putting it on your bike. Now install the rivet into the same place position as the other links have theirs. A good way to remove a chain is to not push the rivet out or the chain all the way (may this is common knowledge) cause when you do this by yourself it can get very tedious. Now insure the reinserted rivet has the same flexibility/stiffness as the other links in your chain by flexing and using your rivet tool. Now you should have a clean chain that only needs to be serviced after 2 rain showers or 1 year if even then. I really am glad I waxed my chain before taking my bike out to L.A. The salt air eats up parts on your bike so I didn't want sand and grit destroying my bike as well. I have just gotten into bike repair myself and I think it adds a sense of independence from bike shops and saves a lot of money. Repairing you own bike can also prepare you for trips in which you may have to fix these things on the back roads of nowhere. If your a beginning cyclists don't take your bike for granted, as I did, but learn more about your bike and in the long run you can make better judgements not only in purchasing a new bike or parts, but in how your trusty (metal, aluminum, CroMoly) steed should respond on the road or race. I need suggestions, opinions, comments (no flames please) on buying a new touring bike. I am considering the CANNONDALE and TREK touring models. I don't want all that pre-brazed on pannier racks. This is going to be a bike for club rides (one day) events. Beyond these two types I don't know. Give suggestions. Becky Bates RCA Memphis, TN. ...!ihnp4!akgua!cylixd!becky