rnkazman@watdaisy.UUCP (Rick Kazman) (02/19/86)
I am currently interested in building up (or buying complete) a true touring bicycle. I have done a considerable amount of touring over the last 5 years, but always with a high quality, general purpose 10 or 12 speed bike. Now I think that it is time to buy a true touring bike with 18 speeds, the proper frame geometry, etc. I have heard a great deal about the Cannondale aluminium frames--they are supposed to be very comfortable for the long distance rider because they absorb much more road shock than an ordinary frame. Unfortunately, I have gotten all of my information from bicycle salemen (hence I am rather reluctant to spend my money based on their claims alone). Does anyone out there have experience with them, or with other specialty touring frames? Any comments regarding frames or *any* piece of equipment which you have found to be invaluable to your gonzo touring bike would be appreciated. As usual, if the volume of responses warrants it, I will post the results in some digested format. Thanks.
dkw@yale.ARPA (David Wittenberg) (02/21/86)
Summary: Expires: Sender: Followup-To: Keywords: In article <7613@watdaisy.UUCP> rnkazman@watdaisy.UUCP (Rick Kazman) writes: >I am currently interested in building up (or buying complete) a true >touring bicycle. > >I have heard a great deal about the Cannondale aluminium frames--they >are supposed to be very comfortable for the long distance rider because >they absorb much more road shock than an ordinary frame. Sorry about replying to the net, but our mailer couldn't handle your address. I have heard good things about the Cannondale, and it is very comfortable (based on a very short test ride over horrible road). I have heard two bad things, one from each of two dealers who don't carry it. 1. (From a mechanic who can fix anything, but often very unconventionally) The bottom bracket is aluminum and tends to strip after the second regreasing. Cannondales literature say that you can strip any bottom bracket if you try and their's is no worse than any other (of course since they answer it as a question often asked I'm somewhat suspicious). The other workaround is to put in a philwood or similar sealed bottom bracket and never worry about it again. 2. From a store owner: Bad quality control, you have to send a third of them back (Of course this guy doesn't and I don't think ever did carry them.) Other possibilities: Bruce Gordon frames have a fantastic reputation. I would certainly buy his chrome-moly steel tubing racks at least for the front. I was on a trip with 2 Treks (not mine I never rode either) the guy with the 720 liked it somewhat, but it came with defective spokes (he broke 4 the first 30 miles, rebuilt the wheel and had no other problems with it). He also disliked the helicomatic (Malliard) hub it came with, though I don't know why. The Trek 620 had as bad a shimmy as any bike on the trip, though that might be solved with the Bruce Gordon front rack. I have a Univega specillisima (sp?) which has good components, but the frame geometry is sport/touring not the grand touring it is advertised for. The specs on Nashbar's bike Bike Nashbar, (somewhere in Ohio 1-800-345-2153) sound very good, but the geometry on the very small size has the top tube too high or I would have bought one for my (5'4") girlfriend. I might buy one from them when my current one wears out or I feel rich again. Other Equipment: I like the cateye solar computer (spedometer, odometer, average speed, ...) The Cannondale overland pannier is very good, but perhaps a little too large, unless you want to put your sleeping bag in it. Spenco handlebar and brake hood pads work quite well and really cut the vibration. A Blackburn stop block is a wonderful way to stabilize the bike when you lean it over. Flick stands also work, but they get in the way of fenders which I think are a requirement. If you have any questions or just want to swap ideas, get in touch with me. David Wittenberg (203) 281-3942 (home) (203) 436-0715 x9 (office) wittenberg@yale decvax!yale!wittenberg
markv@uoregon.UUCP (markv) (02/23/86)
Bruce Gordon makes some good touring frames. They have two versions of their
touring frame with components (which I'll sum up below):
600 CAMPAGNOLO
TOURING TOURING
Hubs Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo Record
Rims Mavic G-40 Mavic G-40
Spokes DT Stainless 14 ga. DT Stainless 14 ga.
Tires Specialized Touring II Specialized Touring II
28c 28c
Freewheel New Winner 6spd 13-32 New Winner 6 spd 13-32
Chain Sedisport Sedisport
Crankset Shimano 600 EX Biopace Campagnolo Super Record
or round chainrings 50,46,30 drilled to accept
Avocet inner chainrings
Pedals Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo Superleggera
Toe Clips Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo
Toe Straps Binda Binda
Rear Derailleur Shimano 600 EX GS Heret Duopar
Front " Shimano 600 EX Sun Tour Cyclone Mk. II
Shifters Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo
Brakes Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo Super Record
Handlebar Cinelli Cinelli
Stem Cinelli 1/A Cinelli 1/R
Saddle Avocet Touring II Avocet Touring II
Seat Post Laprade Campagnolo Super Record
Headset Shimano 600 EX Campagnolo Super Record
Sizes ** 48.5,50,52,54,56,58 48.5,50,52,54,56,58
60,62,64,66 60,62,64,66
Bruce Gordon
Standard $1185 $1570
Chinook $1085 *** $1470 ***
** Frames are measured from center of BB to top of seat tube
*** Price includes front and rear Bruce Gordon Chrome Moly Racks
Also: Frames are 50% silver alloy brazed (by hand). Columbus tubing.
I don't know the diffrence between the Bruce Gordon Standard and Chinook bikes
(besides the $100). Also since I'm planing to purchase one of these in the
next couple of months it would be nice to hear what people think of them.
If you want more information that what I posted:
Bruce Gordon Cycles
1070 West Second Avenue
Eugene OR 97402
(503) 343-9313
$3.00 for a brochure.
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