love@mhuxr.UUCP (LINDENBERGER) (03/03/86)
*** REPLACE THIS LINE WITH YOUR MESSAGE *** .......... I am in the market for a good touring bike. A local dealer tells me that modern automated production techniques have enabled the Japanese to produce very high quality frames at reasonable cost. Two that he reccomends are Shogun and Miyata. All alloy construction, and rims. TRIPLE butted tubes sounds intelligent to me. Shimano cantilever brakes and deraileurs. Each offers what the dealer says is a fine quality touring bike, designed to go the distance, for around $400. complete. Each companies' lit points out that they have done their homework and have designed the frames for the specific application. (They offer touring,racing, sport, all-terrain models for example, each with different designs and materials.) My question: after seeing on this net that many people spend MUCH more for a bike, how far off the mark would I be if I found a "stock" bike that fit me? Also, of course any specific comments on those two manufacturers would be appreciated. Happy rolling! Stew Lindenberger AT&T Bell Labs Murray Hill NJ
peters@cubsvax.UUCP (Peter S. Shenkin) (03/03/86)
In article <mhuxr.552> love@mhuxr.UUCP (LINDENBERGER) writes: >I am in the market for a good touring bike. A local dealer tells me that >modern automated production techniques have enabled the Japanese to produce >very high quality frames at reasonable cost. Two that he reccomends are >Shogun and Miyata. All alloy construction, and rims. TRIPLE butted tubes >sounds intelligent to me. Shimano cantilever brakes and deraileurs. Each >offers what the dealer says is a fine quality touring bike, designed to go >the distance, for around $400. complete. I've been very happy with my Univega Gran Turissimo, in the same price range. I got it at Toga, 64th & West End Ave., in Manhattan. For a little more you can get a Specialized (though they're hard to find on the East coast), which is probably a better bike. Miyata is good; I don't know Shogun. Peter S. Shenkin Columbia Univ. Biology Dept., NY, NY 10027 {philabs,rna}!cubsvax!peters cubsvax!peters@columbia.ARPA
wagner@uw-june (Dave Wagner) (03/06/86)
In article <552@mhuxr.UUCP>, love@mhuxr.UUCP (LINDENBERGER) writes: > I am in the market for a good touring bike. A local dealer tells me that > ....[one can get] a fine quality touring bike, designed to go > the distance, for around $400. complete. > My question: after seeing on this net that many people spend MUCH more for > a bike, how far off the mark would I be if I found a "stock" bike that fit me? I am one of those people who have spent MUCH (much, much) more for their touring bike. The reason? I am 6'4", and could not get a stock touring bike that fit my body; thus, I was forced to go the custom-built route. (That was in 1979; since then, a lot of manufacturers have come out with larger frame sizes.) I don't think you would be at all "off the mark" by purchasing one of the new breed (god, I hate that phrase) of Japanese touring bikes. I've read about a lot of them and I am green with envy that people nowadays can get so much more bike for the money than back when I was in the market. Don't allow yourself to overbuy just for the sake of snob appeal. On the other hand, there are certain things that one might want in a touring bike that stock bikes (at least in this price range) don't offer. Good quality sealed-bearing hubs and bottom brackets, such as Phil Wood or Specialized. In my opinion, any decent crankset will serve the purpose, as long as it can be geared low enough. Some of the Japanese touring bikes come with their own racks. I'm not too sure about these - Bicycling magazine did some tests awhile back that showed that there is a big difference in different rack strengths. Bruce Gordon racks, naturally, came out on top; Blackburn made a respectable showing. Vetta looked so terrible that I would never trust them. (Imagine having a rack break while you're swooping down a mountain road?) But there's a point of diminishing returns - for example, I use Blackburns because I've never had any problems with them and the Gordons are too expensive. Stronger wheels - this includes not only the rims but what kind of spokes are used. A high quality freewheel - ever had a freewheel come apart while you're grinding up a hill on a loaded bike? These are the "invisible" places where costs can be cut. You'll never encounter any problems with these cost-cutting measures until you are 50 miles from the nearest town with 40-50 pounds of stuff on the bike. (speaking from experience!!) For example.... Bear in mind, now, that I weigh 210 pounds. With full packs, full water bottles, lunch and dinner, etc., I expect that my bike and I weigh at least 290 pounds. 5 pounds of wheels are supporting the other 285 pounds! For this reason, I have Phil Wood hubs, with a tandem (i.e. solid) axle on the rear; 48 spokes rear, 40 spokes front; Super Champion 58 28mm rims. The spokes are DT 14 gauge (twice the cost of any other, but provably stronger. Wheelsmith spokes may be as strong; I've never seen figures for them). I never ride tires that are narrower than 1-1/4". I've broken lesser wheels (in the middle of Idaho, 100 miles from the nearest bike shop!). I only use Suntour Winner freewheels (I've broken a Pro Compe, on that hill I told you about.) I've broken Huret and Suntour derailleurs (in the middle of the Canadian Rockies) - now I use a Shimano Deore XT. Whew! Sorry if I got a little wordy there, but I have very strong feelings about the quality of the components I ride. When it doen't have a functional advantage, I don't buy it. But if I see the potential for a true problem, I'll spend whatever is necessary to make sure it doen't happen! Dave Wagner University of Washington Comp Sci Department wagner@washington.arpa {ihnp4,decvax,ucbvax}!uw-beaver!wagner "The surest thing there is is we are riders, And though none too successful at it, guiders, Through everything presented, land and tide And now the very air, of what we ride." - Frost
diego@cca.UUCP (Diego Gonzalez) (03/06/86)
> . . . > My question: after seeing on this net that many people spend MUCH more > for a bike, how far off the mark would I be if I found a "stock" bike > that fit me? Also, of course any specific comments on those two > manufacturers would be appreciated. > > Happy rolling! Stew Lindenberger AT&T Bell Labs Murray Hill NJ I think it's a great idea to look at and purchase your first serious bike "off the floor." Not only are the two models that you are considering from excellent makers (I rode a Miyata Sport) for more than 8 years), but you will also be knowledgeable when and if you decide to go for a more exotic machine in the future. My first 10-speed was a Peugeot UO-8 in 1966. I owned another one later, and then bought the Miyata in 1974. Between '74 and '82, I upgraded numerous items on that bike including the seat, stem, cranks, brake pads and levers, derailleur pulleys, and -- the biggest improvement -- a new set of narrow wheels (yes, I learned about narrow-section high-pressure tires back in 1977 and put them on Mavic Mod Es that I built myself). If the bike fits, is acceptable in weight, and meets your present bicycling needs and interests, you should be confident that it is an appropriate choice. Once you have ridden it for a period of time, you may decide that your interest is more serious than you initially thought and that you are ready for a more sophisticated bike. Modern frames generally accept interchangeable parts, so you can upgrade for quite some time to come without exceeding the potential of a well-made frame. My suggestion is that you go ahead with the bike purchase, make sure that the dealer fits it properly to your body size, and get out on the road. That's where the fun is! Good luck and good riding.