[net.analog] Blowing away an Optimod in 10 easy steps

dsi@unccvax.UUCP (Dataspan Inc) (09/07/85)

 >Path: unccvax!mcnc!philabs!cmcl2!seismo!brl-tgr!almsa-1!control
 >From: "Leonard N. Foner" <FONER%MIT-OZ@MIT-MC.ARPA>
 >Subject: Schematics for stereo FM modulator needed


     Leonard Foner has asked for schematics to an stereo FM
modulator.  I thought I'd whip out my Optimod-FM 8000 service
manual, but this is indeed a complicated home construction
project. Instead, I have described in ten easy steps what one has
to do in order to make a reasonably decent stereo generator that
I've actually built and tested. It gives about 50 dB of separation
when adjusted correctly, and doesn't sound half bad. If I'd have
put it on just one breadboard and paid attention to detail, it 
might even do better. (Mail to ARPA always fails for me... sorry
if this is boring!)

     DO NOT, repeat, DO NOT build this circuit and connect it
to your 10 watt educational FM transmitter (or whatever). I know
how tempting this is, but the Federal Cookie Company will have
your hide. It does NOT meet broadcast specifications.

    Step 1: You need a 38 kHz (or harmonic thereof) master
            oscillator...sine wave, very high stability (4 hz)

    Step 2: Divide the 38 kHz signal in a JK flipflop or
            whatever. This will be your stereo pilot signal
            after you . . .

    Step 3: FILTER the 19 kHz square wave. (and I mean, filter)
            You want no more than 5% THD in this sine wave.
            Might as well make it critically coupled, double
            tuned and all that jazz, so you can then

    Step 4: ADJUST THE PHASE of the 19 kHz signal. You want
            to be able to set the 19 kHz signal in such a way
            that its zero crossing is coincident with one
            of the zero crocssings of the 38 kHz signal

    Step 5: Perform the same filtering trick with the 38 kHz
            signal. 

    Step 6: To one MC 1496 doubly balanced modulator, add the
            necessary R's and C's to get it to be a DSB type
            device. In the "L" port you would apply the 38
            kc stereo subcarrier. Provide an offset pot so
            that you can null out the subcarrier (remember,
            you are generating DSB!!!) The data sheet for
            this device in several manuals have test circuits
            which I copied verbatim in my prototype. In the
            "R" port you would apply the "L-R" audio (see
            below). The X (output) port would then be your
            stereophonic subcarrier.

    Step 7: Get some TL084 op amps (you want definition, right?)
            and build a 1:1 summer and 1:1 subtractor. This
            will make your L+R and L-R signal.  Then, build 
            a crude, but effective preemphasis filter, simply
            by putting a 16 k ohm resistor in the feedback
            loop of an op-amp, and to the (-) summing node
            a 16 k ohm in parallel with 4700 pf. Yes, I know
            that the frequency response goes up to lalaland,
            but you've fixed that somewhat by making sure that
            your input buffers are integrators with -3 dB points
            at 15 kHz. Not FCC grade, you see, but effective.
            You need preemphasis in both the L+R and L-R channels,
            and could do it to either the (L and R) by themselves,
            or the sum and difference (I selected the inputs).

    Step 8: The L+R signal modulates the main channel
            directly. 
            The L-R signal goes to the MC1496 as above
            The 19 kHz signal modulates the main channel
            directly.

    Step 9: Sum all of this mess. Here is what you have to do:
  
	    With L and R signals, equal phase and amplitude, you must
            not exceed 75 kHz deviation (including the
            pilot at 10 %. This is 100% modulation)

            With L and R signals of opposite phase and equal
            amplitude (just as before) the stereo subcarrier modulates
            the carrier 75 kHz just as before (the main channel
            should be quiet).

            The pilot subcarrier should be injected at 8 - 10
            percent modulation. 

            With an L or R only signal, and 10 % pilot modulation,
            the main channel should contribute 45% of the signal,
            and the stereophonic subcarrier should contribute the
            other 45% (at 100% modulation).

   Step 10: Now the fun part (calibrating this mess isn't the
            fun part) -- finding a modulator which will actually
            respond to all this mess. If you plan to use Mr. Microphone
            you'll have to get in there and fudge around with the
            direct FM input filter to the varactor diode. You
            really need flat response from DC to 75 kHz (at least)
            and good differential distortion characteristics, for
            proper "soundstage" and all that jazz.

   Step 10a: A spectrum analyzer will make your life
             infinitely easier, if you don't know what a baseband
             signal looks like in the time domain.

     If all you want to do is turn on people's stereo lights, a
19 kHz oscillator will do fine.  BE CAREFUL with input filtering -
if you plan to play CD's over an FM stereo transmitter, you'll find
that some of them will cause the stereo decoder to "false" and 
attempt to track some of the transients rather than the pilot
subcarrier. This sounds quite offensive on some radios. You may
have to implement a higher order lowpass before sum and difference
(and preemphasis), elliptic functions are preferred because of
their improved group delay characteristics as you approach the
stop band.

     THE SECRET TO GOOD STEREO SEPARATION is to make sure that
the pilot subcarrier and the carrier part of the DSB modulated
signal cross the axis at the exact same time.  You adjust this
not before the transmitter (which can do nasty things due to its
group delay anomalies and high "Q" PA cavities) but with a high
quality, calibrated receiver. Significant deviation from this will
result in a very trashy stereo signal, regardless of signal strength.

     Happy stereo generation! If you do this right, you will get
excellent performance for a total expenditure of $30-40, not
counting some of the coils you'll need. Use TV horizontal 
oscillator coils (which have a very wide tuning range and high Q)
available from good junked TV's everwhere.


David Anthony
CDE
DataSpan, Inc