hga@mit-eddie.UUCP (Harold Ancell) (04/07/85)
I agree with Ken Arndt says, especially about attitude. Attitude is the single most important thing. The best book (by far) on this subject I have read or heard about is "The Truth About Self-Protection" by Massad Ayoob, Bantam Books, (1983), $4.95. He was a police officer for eight years, researched and wrote articles after that, and is currently Director of the Lethal Force Institute in Concord, NH. He knows from hard earned personal experience what he is talking about. I recommend everybody read it, because what you have been taught about self-defense will probably get you killed if you every get in a very nasty situation. Before reading this book I had lived in a marginal part of Cambridge, MA for 5 years without major incident, but this book shook me up and prompted some very hard thinking. It covers \everything/. This is a partial list of chapters: The face of the enemy, why you've been misinformed (I guarantee you will be amazed more than once), understanding the police (and why they generally don't act very sympathetic or understanding (burnout)) passive measures including lock, alarms, dogs, if you're attacked by a dog, cars and evasive driving, if you're taken hostage, aspects of countervailing force including the will to retaliate, the neck-twist takedown, eye attacks, martial arts, which makeshift weapons work and which don't, teargas, should you have a gun, what to get if so. And \very/ important, how to deal with the aftermath. One thing this book makes clear are the consequences you face if you maim or kill. You need this book to have the best chance of avoiding massive legal fees (upwards of $30,000) and jail, not to mention emotional trauma. As for particular recommendations (most information from Ayoob): Tear gas has some problems. CN is a surface irritant, but isn't guaranteed to be effective. CS is a choking agent, but can take up to 30 seconds to take effect unless you hit the eyes. Using a projector can be difficult, especially if it's windy. You should pratice so that you know how far the stream travels, and (unless you have heart or respiratory problems) get an idea of the effectivness. Without training a knife isn't a wise idea, especially since your opponent is likely to be more experienced and hardened. The "winner" of a knife fight generally ends up in the hospital. Ayoob makes a strong point that street fighters can take a lot of punishment; much more than you or I. Thus car keys more likely to anger your opponent to the point of killing you than to do you any good, unless you hit his eyes, and people have fantastic reflexes for protecting their eyes. Ayoob's recommendation for the most effective legal (non-gun) street weapon is a 3 to 5 D cell police flashlight. This is made out of aircraft aluminum, won't fall apart like the $1.49 drug store variety, casts a intense beam and sets you back $20 to $40. Since its not \designed/ to hit people with it puts you in a better position if/when you get charged with assault with a deadly weapon for defending yourself. I carried one of these when I was working at a place across the street from a housing project. Several very important points condensed from "The Truth About Self-Protection": Don't hit someone unless a life is in danger. If you heft one of these you will understand why. A strong blow will \powder/ a bone, and a blow to the head will probably kill. Draw it and stand in a threatening manner; criminals know what one can do and many are scared to death of them. Use it to block and grappel, and if you have to, powder his kneecap. Don't hit him on the head unless you're justified in killing him. Don't use an overhand blow; this is the easiest for someone block, and if an assailent takes it away from you you'll be lucky to regret it. Pratice grappling with someone and hitting 1 by 2's. Don't try to parry a knife thrust; the flashlight has too much inertia. Ayoobs advice is go to the outside hip opposite the knife and try to hit his skull (and kill him) before you get badly slashed. Guns: I envy your abillity to carry a pistol. Here in the People's Republic of Massachussetts only police, doctors, pharmicists, couriers and the like can get a License to Carry (concealed.) If I had any choice in the matter I would carry a Colt .45 semi-auto (with minimal reliability modifications.) One of these costs $600+ with mods, but what is the value of your life? For home defense I have a Remingtion 870 12 gauge shotgun (the best for defense unless you're lucky enough to find a High Standard Model 10B) loaded with lead BB's (hopefully won't go through interior walls) and 00 buckshot (for firing \through/ walls and furniture.) If you haven't had years of experience in quail hunting or something that teaches you how to avoid killing innocent bystanders you're probably best using number 6 birdshot (which is smaller than the above) and being as careful as possible about what's behind your target. I'm living in an area with brick walls so I can use heaver stuff without endangering neighbors. Ayoob makes a very good case for not using a shotgun as your primary home defense weapon. He points out that twisting a shotgun out of someone's hands is really easy, since your opponent gets a bigger lever arm when he grabs to the outside of your hands. When he has to check out the classic noise in the night he dons body armor and takes his pistol while his wife backs him up with a shotgun. I do the same, except I still have to push though the paperwork to get a pistol permit (you have to get a Firearms Identification Card to buy or transport a rifle or pistol, and a License to Carry (for target pratice) to buy or transport an unloaded pistol in MA.) Grrr. I really strongly recommend that you get this book, especially since lately it seems to have become "fashionable" to kill victims (in the sense that wearing unlaced high top white sneakers is currently fashionable); I'll post some things I've read if people are interested. - Harold