michaelo@tektronix.UUCP (Michael O'Hair) (03/29/85)
[ ? ] Sorry about the multiple submissions, but our mail system was giving more than usually bizarre error messages that implied that no mail was getting out. Sigh. The wonders of high tech. Michael
tj@utcs.UUCP (tj) (04/01/85)
I think raising the binding off the ski an inch is the best approach. It then means that you have made no mods to your boots and therefore you can still a) deal with any ski shop for normal boot repairs b) sell them when its time to upgrade. (the market is small for people with an inch difference in leg length!) If you use a solid shim the length of the toepiece to heel piece you will stiffen the ski somewhat. It depends on the type of material you use. On the other hand if you use just a peice under the toepiece or under the heel piece there are a couple of things. One is positive... snow won't get jammed under your boot as you put them on! The other effect, negative, is that as the ski flexes, the binding lives on a different radius of curvature than the radius the ski is curving. As the ski flexes the binding has to move to keep tension on the boot. Heel pieces are made to move, but you will definitely be moving it more than normal. You may get more premature releases because of this problem. The modify the boot approach is the best from an engineering standpoint when you look at boot ski interaction if you can get the difference in height without changing the soles outside, but I think you will probably comprimise the fit, comfort, and normal ranges of motion of the boot. tj