[net.wines] Burgundy of the Real Kind

c-hunt@tesla.UUCP (05/07/84)

I am very interested in other people's experiences with real French Burgundy,
ie Bourgogne Rouge, from the northern regions of Cote de Nuits and Cote de
Beaune (as opposed to the southern light wines of Chailonnais and Beaujolais).

Wheras in Bordeaux the vineyards are typically under one winemaker's control,
and hence the type and quality of the wines are consistent over the years, and
you can buy confidently by reputation, in Burgundy, with few exceptions, the
great vineyards are split up among many owners with claims ranging from a singlerow of vines to the entire growth.  Burgundy is often not estate bottled, eitherand hence what you get when you buy "Volnay Premier Cru", you are likely buying
a blend (created by the respective shipping firm) of various different wines
bought from country growers.  This is not necessarily bad, in that by blending
the final wine is often better than any of the primary wines, being more
balanced; but it also means you know nothing about a wine by reading the label:
is it light and fruity; is it tannic and complex, should it last a lifetime, or
is it best to drink for dinner tomorrow.  The big problem with this is that
the wines of the Cote d'Or, because the region is so tiny and exclusive, are
VERY EXPENSIVE.  I don't mind peeling out $15 for a '78 Ridge Vineyards York
Creek Cabernet, on special occaisions of course, since I know what to expect
from that vinyard and that winemaker; but I'm skiddish about paying the same
price for Bouchard Gevry-Chambertin '79, when I know it's a blend and may not
be anything like what I've had from Gevry Chambertin before.  Good Burgundy is
an unbelievable experience, but if you "experiment", it can be a costly
disappointment.  And Burgundy shippers are not famed for their ethics...

This is where Usenet's net.wines has a real chance to profit us all.  I propose
that if anyone out there tries a burgundy, send a critique to the newgroup.
List the appellation (eg Vosne-Romanee, Aloxe-Corton, etc.), the vineyard, if
one is given (eg Beaune Greves "L'Enfant Jesus"), the vintage year, and very
importantly, the shipper and/or "negociant" (eg Jadot, Latour, Faiveley, J.
Drouhin, etc.).  This last point is crucial.  For example, you can get over
seventy different bottlings of Clos Vougeot from a given year: it's only one
vinyard (60 acres), but some of the wines are great glories, and others aren't
worth the weight of the bottle's glass at the recycling center.  Lastly, if
you can describe attributes (ex. "big aroma, mouthfilling, long finish...")
and price (and where you got it, maybe the American importer's name on the
label), these can also be helpful.

Anybody tried a good Chambolle-Musigny lately?

=Charles Hunt=
cornell!tesla!c-hunt
tesla!c-hunt@cornell (ARPA... try to avoid)