billb@tektronix.UUCP (Bill Baker) (02/21/85)
========= ONE MAN'S OPINION ========= One area of wines that has fascinated me for years is that of Sparkling Wines. Such wines have been made in the U.S. ever since Prohibition, and, until about 15 years ago, were almost always called 'champagne' to the chagrin of the French and now to the entire EEC. Twenty years ago, there were denumerable producers of Sparkling Wine in California, most notably Schramsberg, Korbel, Hans Kornell, Weibel, Beaulieu Vineyards, and some others. There were (and still are) several well-known 'champagnes' from New York such as Taylor and Gold Seal and others. I will have to restrict my attention to the smaller, more quality-oriented sparkling wines to eliminate Andre, Jaques Reynard, and such from discussion. In the early seventies, a remarkable thing happened: Moet-Chandon of France bought some land in Yountville, California and planted vineyards for the production of sparkling wine in the Napa Valley. In the mid-seventies, they opened their winery and cellared their first sparkling wine which was actually produced over at Trefethen Vineyards. They began experimenting with their cuvees to find the one for the style of sparkling wine they wanted to produce. This seemed to catalyze and interest in sparkling wines and also to make the label description of sparkling wine to be fashionable. They also practiced early harvest of their grapes to minimize the tannins in the grape *juice* and provide the proper acid balance (approx. 18 Brix and 1.0% acid). Since that time, large numbers of high-quality sparkling wines have appeared on the market from California which call themselves sparkling wine, are made by the methode champenoise, and are aged on the lees of the secondary fermentation for 18-24 months. Some California wines are: Iron Horse Chateau St. Jean Domaine Chandon (Moet-Hennessey) Piper-Sonoma (Sonoma Vineyards-Piper-Heidsieck) Roederer (Will build in Mendocino County) Freixenet (Will build in Carneros District) Deutz (Will build in Schelville near Carneros) Mumm (Napa Valley) By the way, foreign investment in sparkling wines in California is at about $60 million so far. Now I remember why I started this: the Pacific Northwest is also producing some interesting sparkling wines. The Willamette Valley of Oregon has aptitudes for grapes like Chardonnay similar to the Champagne district of France, but not quite as severe. So, in certain vintages, early picking is necessary due to early rains and the grapes lend themselves to sparkling wine production. Examples are Knudsen-Erath and Chateau Benoit. Knudsen-Erath was aged over the secondary lees for two full years and resulted in a wine with the familiar "yeasty" character most often characteristic of French Champagnes. Chateau Ste. Michelle produced its first sparkling wine from the 1974 vintage. It was a technically excellent methode champenoise wine, but the grapes had matured too far and the wine had a slight bitter edge to its finish characteristic of sparkling wines made from grape juice containing some tannin. Their subsequent sparkling wines (including a Blanc de Noir) have improved considerably. A real surprise was this Fall's appearance of sparkling wines from Ste. Chapelle in *Idaho*! They have an excellent reputation for Rieslings in the Northwest, but sparkling wines were unexpected (by me). They have produced two sparkling wines, one methode champenoise, and one Charmat Process. I have just tried the Charmat Process wine, and it is interesting. Unlike the usual Charmat Process, this one was carried out at 55 degrees F and over a long period of time. The label of the wine calls it Idaho Johannisberg Riesling, and it's made of 100% J. Riesling wine. The label characterizes it as 'sec'. It has a very strong fruity aroma of the Riesling grape. The effervescence is slower than most Charmat Process wines and more like the methode champenoise wines. To my taste, the strong riesling character fights the sparkling character. I would prefer a more subdued fruit. If you like Gewurtztraminer, you'll like this wine. If you have thought: "If Asti Spumante were only drier, I would like it," then you will like Ste. Chapelle Idaho Sparkling Johannisberg Riesling. Interestingly, printed on the black label, in black, is the word "Champagne." It's hardly readable, but there. At $6.99, it's not a bad buy. I have yet to try their methode champenoise, so I can't comment. Jere M. Marrs (not Bill Baker!) Tektronix, Inc. Beaverton, Oregon {decvax,ihnp4,ucbvax}!tektronix!tekgvs!jerem