billb@tektronix.UUCP (Bill Baker) (02/21/85)
========= ONE MAN'S OPINION =========
One area of wines that has fascinated me for years is that of Sparkling
Wines. Such wines have been made in the U.S. ever since Prohibition, and, until
about 15 years ago, were almost always called 'champagne' to the chagrin of the
French and now to the entire EEC.
Twenty years ago, there were denumerable producers of Sparkling Wine in
California, most notably Schramsberg, Korbel, Hans Kornell, Weibel, Beaulieu
Vineyards, and some others. There were (and still are) several well-known
'champagnes' from New York such as Taylor and Gold Seal and others. I will have
to restrict my attention to the smaller, more quality-oriented sparkling wines
to eliminate Andre, Jaques Reynard, and such from discussion. In the early
seventies, a remarkable thing happened: Moet-Chandon of France bought some land
in Yountville, California and planted vineyards for the production of sparkling
wine in the Napa Valley. In the mid-seventies, they opened their winery and
cellared their first sparkling wine which was actually produced over at
Trefethen Vineyards. They began experimenting with their cuvees to find the one
for the style of sparkling wine they wanted to produce. This seemed to catalyze
and interest in sparkling wines and also to make the label description of
sparkling wine to be fashionable. They also practiced early harvest of their
grapes to minimize the tannins in the grape *juice* and provide the proper acid
balance (approx. 18 Brix and 1.0% acid). Since that time, large numbers of
high-quality sparkling wines have appeared on the market from California which
call themselves sparkling wine, are made by the methode champenoise, and are
aged on the lees of the secondary fermentation for 18-24 months. Some
California wines are:
Iron Horse
Chateau St. Jean
Domaine Chandon (Moet-Hennessey)
Piper-Sonoma (Sonoma Vineyards-Piper-Heidsieck)
Roederer (Will build in Mendocino County)
Freixenet (Will build in Carneros District)
Deutz (Will build in Schelville near Carneros)
Mumm (Napa Valley)
By the way, foreign investment in sparkling wines in California is at about $60
million so far.
Now I remember why I started this: the Pacific Northwest is also producing
some interesting sparkling wines. The Willamette Valley of Oregon has aptitudes
for grapes like Chardonnay similar to the Champagne district of France, but not
quite as severe. So, in certain vintages, early picking is necessary due to
early rains and the grapes lend themselves to sparkling wine production.
Examples are Knudsen-Erath and Chateau Benoit. Knudsen-Erath was aged over the
secondary lees for two full years and resulted in a wine with the familiar
"yeasty" character most often characteristic of French Champagnes.
Chateau Ste. Michelle produced its first sparkling wine from the 1974
vintage. It was a technically excellent methode champenoise wine, but the
grapes had matured too far and the wine had a slight bitter edge to its finish
characteristic of sparkling wines made from grape juice containing some tannin.
Their subsequent sparkling wines (including a Blanc de Noir) have improved
considerably.
A real surprise was this Fall's appearance of sparkling wines from Ste.
Chapelle in *Idaho*! They have an excellent reputation for Rieslings in the
Northwest, but sparkling wines were unexpected (by me). They have produced two
sparkling wines, one methode champenoise, and one Charmat Process. I have just
tried the Charmat Process wine, and it is interesting. Unlike the usual Charmat
Process, this one was carried out at 55 degrees F and over a long period of
time. The label of the wine calls it Idaho Johannisberg Riesling, and it's made
of 100% J. Riesling wine.
The label characterizes it as 'sec'. It has a very strong fruity aroma of
the Riesling grape. The effervescence is slower than most Charmat Process wines
and more like the methode champenoise wines. To my taste, the strong riesling
character fights the sparkling character. I would prefer a more subdued fruit.
If you like Gewurtztraminer, you'll like this wine. If you have thought: "If
Asti Spumante were only drier, I would like it," then you will like Ste.
Chapelle Idaho Sparkling Johannisberg Riesling. Interestingly, printed on the
black label, in black, is the word "Champagne." It's hardly readable, but
there. At $6.99, it's not a bad buy.
I have yet to try their methode champenoise, so I can't comment.
Jere M. Marrs
(not Bill Baker!)
Tektronix, Inc.
Beaverton, Oregon
{decvax,ihnp4,ucbvax}!tektronix!tekgvs!jerem