[net.wines] Aging 1982 Red Bordeaux

chuckb@fluke.UUCP (Chuck Bowden) (04/10/85)

I am seeking advice for aging red wine properly, and I am wondering if
anyone has heard anything in particular about '82 red Bordeaux.

I read somewhere (I wish I remember where) that 1982 was the best year for
red Bordeaux since one year in the late 40's.  The article also said that
'82 red Bordeaux wines that are currently selling for around $13.00 will
sell for twice that price as early as July because of the quality of the '82
grapes from Bordeaux and the demand for this vintage.

Has anyone else heard good things about 82 Bordeaux?

I took the bait and bought some bottles of Ginestet '82 and Mouton-Cadet '82
and plan to cellar them.  These wines were not expensive ($5.50/$6.50 ea.)
but I am hoping that in ten years or so, I'll have something good.

Is there another red Bordeaux that someone would recommend?

I live in an apartment, so there is no basement for cellaring wine, so I am
not sure whre to put the bottles. I understand that wine ages faster at
higher temperatures, but I know that light and high heat are to be avoided.
Some questions I have are:

How many years should I age the wine, and at what temperature?

What maximum temperature fluctuation should be observed?

What does higher-than-normal-wine-cellar temperature do to the wine?

I have not read net.wines before, so pardon me if I have covered old topics.
Thanks in advance for any response!


Chuck Bowden 
John Fluke Manufacturing Co., Inc.

{uw-beaver,microsof,sun,allegra,ssc-vax} !fluke!chuckb

steveg@gitpyr.UUCP (Steve Gilbreath) (04/16/85)

[Reply to the addresses given in the signature...  PNW, wan@gacsr]
> I am seeking advice for aging red wine properly, and I am wondering if
> anyone has heard anything in particular about '82 red Bordeaux.
> 
> I read somewhere (I wish I remember where) that 1982 was the best year for
> red Bordeaux since one year in the late 40's.  The article also said that
> '82 red Bordeaux wines that are currently selling for around $13.00 will
> sell for twice that price as early as July because of the quality of the '82
> grapes from Bordeaux and the demand for this vintage.
> 
> Has anyone else heard good things about 82 Bordeaux?
> 
> I took the bait and bought some bottles of Ginestet '82 and Mouton-Cadet '82
> and plan to cellar them.  These wines were not expensive ($5.50/$6.50 ea.)
> but I am hoping that in ten years or so, I'll have something good.
> 
> Is there another red Bordeaux that someone would recommend?
> 
> I live in an apartment, so there is no basement for cellaring wine, so I am
> not sure whre to put the bottles. I understand that wine ages faster at
> higher temperatures, but I know that light and high heat are to be avoided.
> Some questions I have are:
> 
> How many years should I age the wine, and at what temperature?
> 
> What maximum temperature fluctuation should be observed?
> 
> What does higher-than-normal-wine-cellar temperature do to the wine?
> 
> I have not read net.wines before, so pardon me if I have covered old topics.
> Thanks in advance for any response!
> 
> 
> Chuck Bowden 
> John Fluke Manufacturing Co., Inc.
> 
> {uw-beaver,microsof,sun,allegra,ssc-vax} !fluke!chuckb


Yes, the 1982 Bordeaux vintage is supposed to be one of the best.  However, I
hope you haven't invested too much in Ginestet and Mouton-Cadet.

To "cellar" a wine means to store for some period of time a wine which has the
potential of becoming a "great wine".  About the only potential Mouton-Cadet
has is becoming vinegar.  Ginestet and Mouton-Cadet are "bulk" wines.  They're
massed produced table wines which can be offered in a large number of 
restaurants at a somewhat reasonable price.  Big volume is the name of the 
game for these wines as they tend to turn a quick profit for both the wine
producer as well as the restaurant.  Bulk wines have no potential of becoming
anything more than average.  They're made to drink now and storing them for
10 years isn't going to make them any better.  In fact, if you did store them
for 10 years or so they would have the same taste they have now, assuming they
didn't go bad, and would be worth no more than you payed for them today, if not
less.

I've had bottles of both Ginestet and Mouton-Cadet.  The Ginestet was ok as a
general table wine.  As for the Mouton-Cadet I must say that it has to be one
of the worst, if not the worst, wines I've ever had.  Mouton-Cadet is produced
by Baron Philippe de Rothschild of the Rothschild family whos greater works
include Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild.  Personally, I find it very
hard to believe the Baron would put his name on the stuff.  It must be a typo.

If you're really interested in cellaring some wines which have some potential
you're going to have to spend a little money.  Not a lot, but about $15 - $20
dollars per bottle.  Wine follows that golden rule - You get what you pay for.
Anyway, here are some suggestions you might look at:

   Ch. Beychevelle   		about $16
   Ch. Figeac			about $25
   Ch. Les Forts de Latour      about $15   Little brother of Ch. Latour
   Ch. Gloria			about $15   Very good buy
   Ch. Lascombes		about $20   My personal favorite
   Ch. Montrose			about $20   Needs long ageing
   Ch. Palmer			about $25   
   Ch. Petrus			about $25

I've tried to keep the suggestions within the $15 - $25 range.  These are the
prices I seen these wines at, however prices may vary several dollars.  There
are many others that you might look at as well.  Just remember a cheap wine is
just that - a cheap wine.  I didn't include any high price wines on the list
however you might want to have one for a special events 10 or 20 years down
the road.  Look at a first growth such as Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild,
Margaux, Haut-Brion, and Latour.  These wines usally start around $40 and
work there way up.  These are the wines you really want to cellar and they will
increase in value.  Example: I purchased a Lafite-Rothschild two years ago for
$54 dollars.  Today it is worth over $150.  I also got a Mouton-Rothschild 
last year for $32 dollars.  It now sells for $90.

I too live in an apartment and was faced with the same problem you have.  I
discussed the problem with a friend of mine who just happens to be a wine
expert and the person who got me started at this.  The solution was to place
my wine rack in a closet.  It is dark and the temperature doesn't change very
much.  Make sure the closet is not near anything that will produce heat or
cold such as a heater.  Light should be avoided and the closet works quite
well.  And while it is important for the wine to be at a proper temperature,
it is more important for the wine to be at a somewhat stable temperature.  
Wine cellars usally stay around 55 - 60 degrees.  This is the temperature the
wine works best at but most important, the wine cellar is a stable
environment.  If you keep your apartment temperature around room temperature
all year round, and it can even get a little warmer in the summer, say around
76 or so, then your wines will be just fine.  Never let your wines get colder
than about 50 and never hotter than about 80.  Just try to keep them in a
stable environment.

As for how long to age the wine, that question has a different answer for
each wine as well as each year of the wine.  Wines too young will taste
wild and strong while wines too old will taste dull and worn out.  Consult
your local wineshop about suggested ageing.

I hope I haven't bored you or scared you off from wines.  It's really quite
fun once you start.  And it's very fun to pull an old dusty bottle out and 
say "This bottle is worth $100 dollars."  Remember, tell them what it's 
worth, not what you paid.
-- 
Steven M. Gilbreath.	Office of Computing Services.		User Services.
Georgia Institute of Technology.	Atlanta GA  30332.	(404) 894-6168
...!{akgua, allegra, amd, hplabs, ihnp4, masscomp, ut-ngp}!gatech!gitpyr!steveg

		  Real computers have 60 bit words.

alan@mtxinu.UUCP (Alan Tobey) (04/18/85)

> I am seeking advice for aging red wine properly, and I am wondering if
> anyone has heard anything in particular about '82 red Bordeaux.
> 
> I read somewhere (I wish I remember where) that 1982 was the best year for
> red Bordeaux since one year in the late 40's.  The article also said that
> '82 red Bordeaux wines that are currently selling for around $13.00 will
> sell for twice that price as early as July because of the quality of the '82
> grapes from Bordeaux and the demand for this vintage.

I've tasted about 40 different 82 Bordeaux in various blind tastings
and over all districts and traditional quality levels, and I'm so far
very unimpressed.  The reason this vintage is getting so much press
is that the grapes reached extreme -- almost unprecedented -- levels
of ripeness in '82.  This means that alcohol levels are exceptionally
high for Bordeaux -- often reaching 13.5 or 14% without addition of
sugar to the must, where a "normal" year would produce wines of
11.5-12% after sugar addition.  Correspondingly, acid levels are
lower than normal -- acidity declines with ripeness.

What do they taste like?  If you like California Cabernet, you'll
probably like some of the '82 Bordeaux -- very ripe, fat grape flavors
that sometimes verge on the raisiny, sometimes "hot" from obvious
alcohol, often rather flabby from lower acid levels, only medium tannin.

Why are they popular?  Merchants of Bordeaux are among the world's best
at hyping their product, and "vintage of the [insert your favorite
long time period]" talk is never far from their lips.  Wines that are
dramatic (or, in my opinion, melodramatic) appeal to people in an
immediate way, put out a lot up front, and don't take a lot of experience
to place in context or enjoy.  Yes, they may appreciate in value --
but look for a lot of "distress" sales of overstocked 82's once the
pipeline fills up and the Bordelaise start hyping the allegedly
excellent 83s ("the best vintage since 82 at least!").

Are there good ones? Yes, of course.  In my opinion the best regions 
in 82 were St-Emilion and Pomerol -- better than the more well-known
Medoc areas (St-Estephe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Margaux).  This derives
mostly from grape differences: St-Em & Pomerol favor Merlot and
Cabernet Franc, the Medoc favors Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Sauvignons
exaggerate the tendencies toward raisiness and flabby, jammy flavors;
while the Cab Franc and especially the Merlot were more optimally
ripe and generally less overripe at harvest.  Every Pomerol I've tasted
has been at least interesting and lively -- and the rare and expensive
La Conseillante unbelieveably fine.  St-Em's are more mixed, with wines
from the western part of the region (Ch. Canon and neighbors) better than
those near the town.  Personally, I'm not buying ANY 82 Medocs to lay down.

Will they improve?  The genuinely great ones will; but the big,
dramatic, low-acid ones will do what California Cabernets of the same
style do:  tend to fall apart into dull, flat boring bottles after a
few years.  California is learning that acidity carries fruit through the
aging period;  buyers of 82 Bordeaux will learn that early drama is
no guarantee of later quality.

What to buy?  79s and 80s are better (in the sense of "more classic")
and are becoming very drinkable.  81s are generally very interesting,
with fine, somewhat restrained fruit and just the right tannic backbone
to improve through the decade.  83s are reputed to be big, hard austere
wines with lots of depth and will certainly require extended aging;
in some sense they're the mirror image of 82s, tough to enjoy or
appreciate now but promising rewards for the patient.

		In Vino Hyperbole,

		Alan Tobey
		Mt Xinu, Berkeley
		ucbvax!mtxinu!alan