rcd@opus.UUCP (Dick Dunn) (06/04/85)
The Great American Beer Festival for 1985 was held May 31 and June 1 in
Denver. There were almost 100 different beers, all from American brewers
served at the festival. First, the top ten according to audience vote;
then some observations.
1. Samuel Adams Boston Lager (light)
2. Hibernia Dunkel Weizen Fest Beer (dark wheat beer)
3. Snake River Amber Lager
4. New Amsterdam Amber Beer
5. While Tail Lager (some question whether this was actually an ale)
6. Grant's Russian Imperial Stout
7. Newman's Albany Amber Ale
8. Chesbay Amber (lager)
8. Thomas Kemper Lager
9. Red Hook Ale
10. Pyramid Pale Ale
Looking at the overall character of the beers, there is a definite tendency
toward much hoppier beers. (Take that, you "not bitter" marketing hypes...
er...types!) Many people noticed this; Michael Jackson commented that he
thought it was more a westward trend for brewers attending (fewer of the
older "small Pennsylvania breweries" and more of the west-coast new
micros). In any case, it was a pleasure to be able to sample so many
properly hopped beers. The evolving American tradition seems to be Cascade
hops, particularly for finish. [If this isn't a familiar taste label, go
get some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. The flowery finish to the taste is
Cascades.]
Miscellaneous notes on the audience voting: It is an unfortunate fact,
evident to many of the organizers and workers at the Festival, that it has
now gained sufficient importance that brewers are working very hard to gain
recognition through a win at the Festival. The unfortunate aspect is that
they are out at the Festival working very hard to promote their beer thru
MARKETING techniques--in other words, the Festival is going to have to deal
with how to avoid going down the same road to insipidity (is that a word?
it should be!) that "mainstream" American brewers have gone. It's nice to
have the brewers there to talk about their products; the enthusiasm is
great but the hype is not.
Interjecting some personal opinion here--two of the winners were obviously
put there by concerted effort. In the case of Samuel Adams, the brewer was
present and working hard--fortunately, his beer was quite good and I don't
really think he needed to push too hard to get a win. His efforts may have
made the difference between a first and somewhere else in the top ten. On
the other hand, the White Tail had some a noticeable off-taste. (This is
from the Riley-Lyon folks. Their products are much improved from last
year, but they've got a bit to go yet.) It's unfortunate to my mind that
they were able to promote their product above its flaws. Similarly, the
Snake River beer had an unusual taste which would be charitably labeled
"an unusual citrus ester" but more accurately "apparent lactobaccillus
contamination". (Three people who regularly judge beer had the latter
analysis.)
A rumor which I'll toss out just for the fun of it was that the Pyramid
Pale Ale was Michael Jackson's choice. I certainly would put it in my top
five--a very hoppy brew (as pale ale should be) with excellent balance,
fresh hop taste (Cascade finish; dry-hopped I might guess).
There were other notable brews. The Hibernia dunkel weizen (dark wheat)
was just what a dark wheat beer should be (which is stranger than tulips on
a pizza if you're not into wheat beers!). It was brewed especially for the
Festival. I appreciate THAT sort of effort on the part of a brewer.
A small brewery named Kessler had two brews--the light was nothing special;
though competently brewed, it didn't merit any special attention. The bock
was quite a surprise...unlike the unfortunate American tendency to throw in
a little caramel malt, release it in the spring and label it a bock, this
was true to style. It was well malted (the brewer claims >16 Plato, and
taste confirms this) and hopped in balance with the malt--perhaps a little
more hops than some might like, but it's so close that it's a matter of
taste here.
Sierra Nevada had a small quantity of a barley wine they call "Bigfoot".
Small quantities were enough; it's substantial stuff. I talked to the
brewer about whether they might do it as a winter special--the problem is
that it collides with their Celebration Ale (Christmas special). Maybe
they'll find a way--let's hope; it's the first American attempt at a barley
wine since Anchor's 50 Year (end to Prohibition) special Old Foghorn in
early 1983. Barley wine is a style worth reviving, tho you may have to try
it while sitting in front of a fire on a bitterly cold evening to fully
appreciate it. The Bigfoot is drier than Old Foghorn, but not for lack of
malt--starting gravity is in the 1090's. (If memory serves, Old Foghorn
was 24 Plato, which is about the same.)
Palo Alto was present with their London Real Ale again--they have
consistency as well as an excellent beer. They were using a regular keg
and tap this year; I would have liked to see the beer engine again, but the
logistics were probably prohibitive. (The damn thing would try to tip the
flimsy conference-hall table over with every draw last year.)
Grant's was present again and well-received. The Russian Imperial Stout
was back and showed up in the top ten. (It took first last year.) Last
year's Scottish Ale was supplanted by India Pale Ale for the other
presentation. Now if you want to taste hops...try a traditionally highly
hopped style (IPA) from a brewer who is a hop freak (and esteemed figure in
the hop industry, while we're at it). This stuff was amazing, even among
all of the other substantially hopped beers present. I believe the figure
is 50-55 BU - more than most heavy-bodied dark beers.
All in all, GABF '85 was a beer lover's heaven. It was hard to go wrong;
with only a little luck you could drink no more than an ounce at each taste
and drink your fill without ever finding a bad beer.
The Festival also spent some effort to ensure that people leaving would
not have to be scraped off the highway later in the evening:
there was an arrangement to run buses from Boulder
the cab company was offering free rides home afterward and rides
back to the hotel the next morning (to retrieve cars)
there was a package deal at very good price for Festival tix
and one night at the hotel where the Festival was held
Organizers of other festivals might take note of this.
--
Dick Dunn {hao,ucbvax,allegra}!nbires!rcd (303)444-5710 x3086
...Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile.