[net.audio] Summary of cassette deck information

luria@UCBKIM (03/24/83)

From: luria@UCBKIM (Marc Luria)
Received: from UCBKIM.ARPA by UCBVAX.ARPA (3.331/3.17)
	id AA22261; 23 Mar 83 17:01:59 PST (Wed)
To: net-audio@BERKELEY
Cc: luria@UCBKIM

Recently, I asked for some comments about cassette decks in the $ 250
range.  I haven't yet bought one, mainly because of lack of time, so
any other comments would be helpful.  I'm sending all this stuff out
because a number of people have asked me for it.

Specific Models
---------------
From: pyuxjj!rlr

I just bought the Vector Research CX-400 at Tech HiFi (east coast)
for $279.  I think it's a discontinued model.  It's quite good, with
Dolby B/C, solenoid controls (soft touch), record mute, etc.
I understand that finding dealers who seel them is hard (Tech HiFi is
the only one in the Northeast, but I believe there are more in
California.  Good luck.

From: decvax!cwruecmp!cdex
 
Two individuals have recently received Teac CX-400 decks from
Illinois Audio; 190 dollars; mailorder with a 3 week wait.
This is a 3 head deck with Dolby B.  The only minor res-
ervation I have about these machines (they were purchased
on my suggestion) concerns the funky transport, which reveals
itself in a slow, high friction rewind, operated by piano
keys.  For 60 more you should be able to find an equivalent
machine with a better transport.

From: decvax!duke!mcnc!chip
Subject: NAD 6050C

  Last weekend I borrowed a friend's NAD 6050C Cassette
  Deck and was REAL impressed with the performance of this unit. It's a
  "bare bones" unit -- not a lot of frills, just a few high quality features.
  It's price ($280) reflects this. Using chrome tape and Dolby C, the NAD 
  makes a recording that sounds almost as good as the record. I've never said
  that about any cassette deck I've heard, up until now. The NAD outperforms
  my reel-to-reel deck running at 7 & 1/2 ips! I have a fairly sensitive ear 
  and own a few good pieces of equipment, so consider my suggestion. Go check 
  one of these things out!!! 
	
From: vax135!brunix!dkw

I bought a Nakamichi 480 this summer and was very happy with it (Until it
got ripped off last week)  It cost $300 and is the cheapest deck by what
is reputed to be the best company.  Unfortunately they no longer make that
deck, but I have heard that their replacement is even better  ( I don't 
know the model  something-1)  I saw it a tweeter, which is an expensive
place for $270 at what they said is a good sale.  

I just got a call from a cheap dealer.  He quoted $240 on a Nakamichi BX-1
and $360 on a Nakamichi BX-2.  In both cases that is 80% of list, and it is
normally quite hard to get any discount on Nakamichi.  The only difference
he mentioned between the 1 and 2 is that the 2 has dolby C.  When I bought
my original deck I decided that C was an advantage, but not $100 worth, so
I will probably get the BX-1.
   The place that gave me the good price is:

		Ear Drum
		148 East Route 59
		Nanuet, NY  10954


General Comments
------- --------

From: decvax!duke!mcnc!rlgvax!tom

I feel the <MOST> important point is buying a reputable brand from a reputable
dealer.  Once you do this it is unlikely that you will go wrong.
I decide on reputable products by the brands mentioned in the stereo
magazines -- these are the companies which have a reputation to protect
and are actively concerned with selling to knowledgeable customers.  Even
their bottom-of-the-line stuff should be reliable and well-designed.
The good stereo dealers will have a good sound room where you can sit
down and listen closely to the components.  The salespeople will be informative
and will not unduly stress technical data, instead stressing what sounds best
to you, the customer, in a proper environment.  Try to go during the week,
so the salesperson will have more time to spend with you.
The best dealer is one who individually checks and fine-tunes every one of
their components individually. Few do.  This is particularly true of cassette
decks due to the number of mechanical components -- the slightest misalignment
and your 50 deck will sound like a 0 one.  For this same reason a good
service department is important -- ask around.

Concerning which deck to buy, I won't quote names but instead give you
my ideas.  At 50, you want a reliable, good-sounding deck without a lot
of gadgets and fancy features.  Every extra frill costs, and a proportionate
amount must be cut on the basics.

Dolby B:  An essential feature for good tapes -- virtually every deck has it.
Dolby C:  Better quality than B, it is a good feature (particularly as you
	eventually upgrade the rest of your system) though not essential.
	Few car decks have Dolby C, so if you want tapes for car use also,
	Dolby C may not be as desireable.
"hard" tapehead:  also called "alloy"; Sendust is a popular name.  Indicates
	better recording quality.  Recommended.
tape selection:  the deck should have setting for recording/playing "normal"
	and "chrome" tapes at different bias/equalization settings.  Essential.
metal compatible:  Any deck which can record/play chrome tapes also
	can do metal tapes, so much of this is hype.  In general,
	dont bother with metal tapes - they are expensive, never on sale,
	and your deck won't be able to take advantage of their extended range.
	I think chrome-type tapes are the best value for the dollar and sound.
automatic equalization setting:  The new kick now is for a deck to
	automatically adjust its settings to each tape when you are about
	to record.  This is a great feature but just too expensive for your
	price range.  I would have serious doubts about any deck in that price
	range offering this feature. Not recommended.
fancy timers, search-and-play, etc:  I feel these are mostly frills
	with no musical benefit.  If there is a particular feature you really
	like, then get it, but don't go overboard.
auto-reverse:  Available for car decks, it is much more complicated for
	a home deck, which must worry about recording.  Avoid.


From: npois!houxm!whuxk!wjm


You can get a decent cassette deck for $250-300.  The most important option
to look at is the meters for record levels.  Try to get ones that you feel
comfortable with and try to get as many LED or flouresent bar segments as
possible.  The other thing to consider is the type of noise reduction system
 - As I've said before, dbx is the best (although dbx encoded tapes cannot
be played back without dbx decoding) and it is available on several machines
by Teac and Technics in this price range.  In this price class, you'll get
a 2 head machine which means the same head is used for recording and playback.
This means you can't listen to a recording as you're making it but have to
wait until you're finished recording to play it back.  A 3 head deck which
has separate record and playback heads (and allows monitoring) would cost about
$500.

jeff (03/28/83)

Cassette Decks <$300.
I got a Sony TCFX66 last summer; I was shopping in Japan and wanted a good
deck with an *elapsed real-time indicator* and Dolby C.  The FX66 and a TEAC
were the only ones with both of these in the required price range; both
had two motors, hard heads, etc.  However, at my favorite emporium in Tokyo,
Ishimaru Denki, three of the four TEACs of that model that they had for
hands-on display (demo tapes and good headphones furnished, they turn you
loose on a wall full of decks) wouldn`t rewind.  Good evidence of a design
flaw.  So I bought the Sony, and have been really pleased.
The "real time" indicator works in some indirect way so is only approximately
accurate; it can be 30seconds off on a 90 minute tape, but up to 3 minutes
off on (one side of) a 60 minute tape.  But mechanically and of course
in terms of sound quality it`s very good.  In fact making cassette tapes
*without* Dolby from my CD player it`s hard (on chamber music) to tell the
difference on an A-B test.  Maybe that says something about my speakers
though.
TEAC offers so many models with so many colored lights, etc., in Japan, I
wonder whether the management has changed recently.

jeff (03/28/83)

To follow up the TEAC, it should be noted that the treatment of all the
decks was very heavy, and the TEAC sounded quite good.

jeff (03/28/83)

The previous was an addendum to a note as to why I bought a Sony TC-FX66
(elapsed real-time indicator, 2 motors, 2 heads, Dolby C).  The Sony is
very good, and on non-Dolby recordings from my CD player of such limited-
dynamic-range material as chamber music, is almost indistinguishable
on A-B tests.
Incidentally, my earlier TEAC (A-170) seems to be able to record at a higher
level without distortion than other decks I`ve tried; is this a characteristic
of TEAC, is it still true, has anyone else heard it?