elf@utcsrgv.UUCP (Eugene Fiume) (05/15/84)
My Nak BX-2 and I have now had at least 50 hours of intimite contact,
so naturally enough I'm in the market for a head demagetiser (though
there has been no evidence of problems as yet). Local audio stores
reveal that there is a good selection. There seem to be two kinds
which can be used on a cassette deck.
(1) A funny looking cassette that either has a battery power source
(e.g. maxell) or permanent magnets (discwasher).
(2) A scary looking monster that is AC powered.
Since I am still a novice, I don't know which to buy, and I don't believe
my audio reps advice that they're all the same. Please send me
recommendations.
Eugene Fiume
U of Toronto
...utzoo!utcsrgv!elfmat@hou5d.UUCP (05/16/84)
Well, one of the magazines had a very favorable review of the Discwasher
unit, which gets the capstans as well as the heads. As a result, you
can't get 'em for love or money.
--
from Mole End
Mark Terribile
(scrape..dig) hou5d!mat
,.. .,, ,,, ..,***_*.tpchmara@wateng.UUCP (Tom Chmara) (05/17/84)
[ Hi there! I'd like to talk to you about problem perspiration ] The cassette-shell type demagnetizers are good for people who don't like to take the time to do a good job. They'll demagnetize the heads, alright, but can't do anything for the remainder of the tape path (e.g. capstan and (I think) erase head, though they MAY get the latter). A friend of mine has the TDK version of this; he's often had to borrow my TEAC demagnetizer to do a proper job. I'd imagine this method would be preferable to doing nothing at all, or for in-dash car cassette decks where the alternatives are AWFULLY painful. Myself, I'd suggest buying one of the AC-powered devils. You actually have to do WORK in this case, and have to read the instructions to do a good job (ask me, I know...from experience), but you're better off in the long run. "You can do the kinkiest things with phono plugs..." ---tpc--- (Tom Chmara EE @ University of Waterloo)
bytebug@pertec.UUCP (roger long) (05/20/84)
> Myself, I'd suggest buying one of the AC-powered devils. You > actually have to do WORK in this case, and have to read the instructions > to do a good job (ask me, I know...from experience), but you're better > off in the long run. Would one of you audio wizards mind describing the correct way to use one of the AC-powered units, how often to do it, along with the "what not to do's". I had been considering getting one of the cassette shell units because I'm afraid that I might do something wrong and end up worse off than if I hadn't demagnetized the heads at all. I'll probably end up getting the cassette shell unit anyway, so I can service my car cassette deck. -- -roger long
ark@rabbit.UUCP (Andrew Koenig) (05/22/84)
I can think of only three rules to follow when using an AC demagnetizer: 1. Turn the power off on the tape deck (and preferably on the rest of your system too) before turning on the demagnetizer. 2. Do not allow any metal part of the demagnetizer to touch any part of the tape deck. Demagnetizers whose 'business end' is covered with plastic are to be preferred for that reason. 3. Do not turn the demagnetizer on or off unless it is at least three feet from any part of the deck. Do not bring it within three feet of any tape while it is turned on. The consequence of rule (3) is that you turn the thing on, bring it over to the deck while it is on, wave it around the heads and guides while it is still on, bring it away from the deck while it is STILL on, and only THEN do you turn it off. If you switch the thing off while it is too close to your heads, you'll wind up with them magnetized worse than before you started.
mac@tesla.UUCP (05/24/84)
RULE 0: Never get the Demagnetiser near your tapes :->