pmr@drutx.UUCP (Rastocny) (08/29/84)
<?> (Re: What type of equipment does Phil R. have?, part 3.) Mains: All 60Hz 120VRMS power is RF filtered and capable of supplying more than twice the peak current demands of all components combined. The power amplifier is on its own dedicated 30A RF filtered line that also incorporates a remote soft start circuit. Loudspeaker wires and connectors: The 25' loudspeaker wires are hand-made from 3,200' of #26 OFHC wire-wrap wire wound in a true Litz configuration, effective wire size is #11. Both the speaker and amplifier terminals are solid copper self-compressing 50A lugs. A two inch length of #10 copper braid is soldered to the ends of the wires to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion at the terminals. Yours for higher fidelity, Phil Rastocny AT&T-ISL ihnp4!drufl!pmr
moroney@jon.DEC (08/31/84)
> Loudspeaker wires and connectors: > The 25' loudspeaker wires are hand-made from 3,200' of #26 OFHC wire-wrap > wire wound in a true Litz configuration, effective wire size is #11. Oh, all that capacitance! The phase shift! Ouch!! Glad you don't have any stability problems, many amplifiers misbehave when connected to a high-capacitance load. Give me my 8-ohm impedance balanced feedline any day! Mike Moroney
mat@hou4b.UUCP (09/01/84)
Phil, I congratulate you on your location. In such an environment, very
subtle differences may well be apparent, and hearing strain due to high
volumes should be non-existant. But I do have some lingering doubts ...
First, about your room. I have heard golden-ear folk suggest that in the
serious listening room, no two surfaces (walls, floor, ceiling) should
be parallel. I've heard of ceilings having sound-absorbing vault-arches
installed under them to suppress the resonances that could occur between
ceiling and floor.
I've also heard it suggested that the area around the speakers should be
acousticaly dead. Your lack of furniture would seem to make it more live,
not less. (Obviously, if you use Bose or Klipsch speakers this can't be
true -- but I'm sure Phil wouldn't be cought dead within half-a-mile of any
of these.)
And what about the folding door and the sliding (glass??) door. Doesn't
glass do sumit' awful when large panes of it (especially plate glass or
safety glass) are reflecting sound?
And the Litz wire. I admire your dedication, and an effective cross-section
of #11 sounds great. But isn't Litz wire a bit of overkill? Let's say that
the highest frequency is 25 kHz -- no, make it 30 kHz. Allow an order of
magnitude, so make it 300 kHz. Is skin effect important at this frequency?
I hardly think so. On the other hand, the wire that you have constructed
probably has some of the soundest connections in the world, and I have long
wondered about non-linear conduction through oxide films.
Anyhow, I'm waiting to hear what Phil has to say about the Revox CD player.
I assume he is looking forward to hearing if Willi Studer had turned the
ugly duckling into a swan.
--
from Mole End Mark Terribile
(scrape .. dig ) hou5d!mat
,.. .,, ,,, ..,***_*. (soon hou4b!mat)rcd@opus.UUCP (Dick Dunn) (09/11/84)
> Mains: > > All 60Hz 120VRMS power is RF filtered and capable of supplying more than > twice the peak current demands of all components combined. The power > amplifier is on its own dedicated 30A RF filtered line that also > incorporates a remote soft start circuit. One serious observation: Why is the soft start circuit on the amp? And why is it on a separate circuit? That looks to me to be a double invitation to trouble. You should have the whole mess controlled at the preamp: The power for the amp should be switched at the preamp, so that if you lose power at the preamp or one of your sources (which should share supply), the preamp can attempt a graceful shutdown and HOLD things down until you give it the go-ahead. If you don't do this, a power glitch can shut down the input side, while the amp's monster power supply hangs in there (no signal to drain it) and rides right over the glitch. The source comes back after the glitch with a resounding click containing all known frequencies--and the amp interprets this as a request to embed as many speaker cones as possible in the far wall of your listening room. Now for fun--gee kids, I hope that most systems have the rest of what Phil's does, without even trying too hard: My amp (100W/CH) only needs 370 VA max, and it's the hungriest part of the entire system. I doubt seriously that I can get the system to snarf down more than 600 VA even if I'm making both open-reel and cassette copies of a disc while playing at max power. My system is on a standard 15-amp breaker, and I know that it's possible to suck pretty close to twice the rated capacity of the breaker for a short time (=="peak demand"). So much for current capability. As for RF filtering, I just went through and peeked. Every one of my components has a power supply that starts with a power transformer. No, we don't run the circuitry in our amp or preamp or anything else on 120V AC, do we? Nosiree! The filtering? Oh, have you ever tried to pass RF through a transformer designed for 60 Hz? Even if you manage to get a few picovolts through, you've got all those nice big filter capacitors on the other side of the transformer to cut it down even more. The power line just ain't where the RF comes in. -- Dick Dunn {hao,ucbvax,allegra}!nbires!rcd (303)444-5710 x3086 ...Keep your day job 'til your night job pays.
pmr@drutx.UUCP (Rastocny) (09/20/84)
Q: Does the 30A breaker feed 15A wiring? This 30A line easily exceeds code. (Was this reply really necessary?) Yours for higher fidelity, Phil Rastocny AT&T-ISL ihnp4!drutx!pmr