wjm@whuxl.UUCP (MITCHELL) (10/30/84)
Probably Monster Cable is the best known high-end speaker cable (there is a significant group of people who would say it, or any other high end cable, is no better than #14 or #12 cord, however). I've been using it on my JSE's and have been pleased with the results,' especially the way it doesn't interfere with the imaging of the JSE's. Regards, Bill Mitchell (mail replies to ihnp4!lcuxc!wjm)
herbie@watdcsu.UUCP (Herb Chong, Computing Services) (10/31/84)
You might be interested in Monster Cable Power Line. It is a heavier gauge version that is wound to cancel inductive effects of the cables. On the other hand, any good heavy gauge cable should do. The jacket has to prevent corrosion of the cable and there should be many strands, for flexibility if nothing else. Since you were able to use Polk cable, I would assume that your amp works reasonably well into a reactive load. Other cable to try is LiveWire BC-4 or BC-8. I have a set of BC-8 and have experienced no untoward effects due to the cable. You might have problems making connections because the wire is so thick. My personal opinion is that heavy gauge cable is all you really need. Stay away from cables that cause excess capacitance (most coaxial cables) unless you know you amplifier can handle the load. Inductance effects are less important, but must be considered also. Since my amplifier is designed to operate at full power (120 W/ch) with square wave input at 20Khz into an 8ohm+.1uF load and remain stable, I have not had much problem with any cable I have used. I was not able to identify any effects of the cables that I have tried that was not due to simply the reduced resistance of heavier cable. That's why I rewired my speakers with Fulton Brown, a 12Ga silver-alloy zip-cord cable. The BC-8 I run is about equivalent to 8Ga cable. Herb... I'm user-friendly -- I don't byte, I nybble.... UUCP: {decvax|utzoo|ihnp4|allegra|clyde}!watmath!watdcsu!herbie CSNET: herbie%watdcsu@waterloo.csnet ARPA: herbie%watdcsu%waterloo.csnet@csnet-relay.arpa BITNET: herbie at watdcs,herbie at watdcsu
mwm@ea.UUCP (11/01/84)
I don't know how monster cable compares to #12 or #14 speaker cable. However, I do know how it compares to the Polk Audio speaker cables - it doesn't. The Polk Audio provides more definition in the mid-range and highs, and better imaging. An article I posted about a month ago went into this. I'm looking for something to compete with the Polk Audio, *not* merely monster cables. <mike
herbie@watdcsu.UUCP (Herb Chong, Computing Services) (11/06/84)
Polk Audio cable is much more sensitive to the load presented by the speaker system and the capabilities of the amplifier with which it is used. If you are the slightest bit unsure, check first with someone who knows stereo design. Straight zip-cord types cables may not be as good as some of the more exotic configurations of cables, but it is sure a lot safer as a amplifer load. The other point is that with most amplifiers, differences due to something other than the change in gauge of the wire is lost in the limitations of the amplifier, not to mention the source. There are far fewer systems out there which can show a reliable difference in merely changing the configuration of the speaker cables than some netters would have you believe. However, almost all will show a benefit from increasing the effective diameter of the cable. If the Polk Audio cable you describe is the one that I am familiar with, it is far to thin to be any improvement over zip-cord of the same diameter. I have tried many brands of cables and the ones I am happiest with are a set of Fulton Golds. At $20/ft/channel, they are expensive. They are not wound specially to reduce inductance effects, but just separating the hot and ground sides of a channel get around most of that. The cable is 2 Gauge silver plated oxygen-free copper of several thousand strands. It doesn't have the high capacitance of coaxial and other wound cables, inductance is reasonably low, and resistance is about as low as practical for home use. A reasonable length of cable will set you back several hundred dollars. Is this what you're looking for? The other alternative is to wind you own as per Phil R.'s specifications. This will cost maybe $100 for a 20ft pair, but it might be what you're looking for. Then you have to figure out what you're going to connect them with. Buying all this cable, of course, is next to useless, unless you are also willing to change the cables within your speaker systems. They are usually in the 18 to 20 Ga range, with some as thin as 24. Until you do that, most of the possible benefits are lost in the cheap stuff they put inside. Until you get thick wire inside, which brand of cable you buy is irrelevant. Herb Chong... I'm user-friendly -- I don't byte, I nybble.... UUCP: {decvax|utzoo|ihnp4|allegra|clyde}!watmath!watdcsu!herbie CSNET: herbie%watdcsu@waterloo.csnet ARPA: herbie%watdcsu%waterloo.csnet@csnet-relay.arpa BITNET: herbie at watdcs,herbie at watdcsu
did@ucla-cs.UUCP (11/07/84)
(Gee, I hope this doesn't develop into a big this-cable-is-better-than- that discussion.) One of the best speaker cables for non-industrial use suitable for any high-power critical home application is made by the Kimber (sp?) company. It's easy to recognize as it has five red wires braided with five black wires (or five brown and five black). It's not too expensive either (it's been a while since I bought some, so I don't remember prices). Dave Arpa: did@UCLA-LOCUS.ARPA Uucp: {ucbvax || ihnp4 || randvax || sdcrdcf || trwspp || ism780} !ucla-cs!did