[net.cycle] Synthetic oils

vfm@ihu1f.UUCP (09/01/83)

          In response to Carl, U.C. San Diego:

          I'm not sure what "film" other than varnish or sludge that may form
          from  petroleum  oil  use.  All the test results I have read do not
          reveal any "invisible"  film.   There  is  a  test  for  film/shear
          strength,   this  ASTM  (Automotive  Society  of  Testing  Methods)
          (federal government) test  procedure  is  performed  by  putting  a
          lubricant  between two pieces of metal and seeing how much pressure
          it takes to squeeze it out.  The best conventional  petroleum  oils
          run  400  -  700  psi,  synthetics ~3200 psi, yes, 3200!  As far as
          "rattling around" goes (?), my only suggestion is don't use a 5W-XX
          (Mobil  1)  weight lubricant.  I would recommend a 10W-40 or 20W-50
          racing synthetic (AMSOIL has both).  These  products  are  used  by
          many  bike  riders  (Harleys  to  Hondas), including those with wet
          clutches.  Although "slipperier" the  coefficient  of  friction  of
          them will not cause a properly adjusted, good clutch to slip.

          Fred Eklow, manager/chairman of  BI  Wheel  Express,  a  motorcycle
          courier  service  in  Cincinnati  switched  his  4-cycle Suzukis to
          AMSOIL.  Since the switch he  noticed  "improvements  in  operating
          temperatures,  fewer  repairs,  better gas MPG and improved life of
          internal parts".

          Oil consumption:

          If anything, your oil consumption should go down when switching  to
          a synthetic because:

            1.  They  do  a  better  job  of  sealing,  especially  in   high
                temperature  areas  (rings  & etc), this has been proven with
                before and after compression tests.

            2.  When conventional petroleum oils near their limit (~300 - 350
                F)  they oxidized quite rapidly.  When your oil reaches these
                temperatures it will start  to  evaporate  and  via  the  PVC
                system  "burn".   Repeated  or  sustained  periods  at  these
                temperatures will result in a "thickening".  This  action  is
                quite  similar  to  the manufacturing process that created it
                (refinement, a distillation procedure).

                Synthetic lubricants can "easily" sustain these  temperatures
                and surpass then by a 100 F and more.  Not only being able to
                take the heat better, because of  the  reduced  friction  and
                thermal   conductivity,   temperature  reductions  have  been
                measured where ever these products have been used.

          Note:  When switching to a  synthetic  make  sure  your  engine  is
          mechanically  sound  and not all sludged up.  Synthetics will clean
          things up and loosen up sludge  deposits.   You're  better  off  by
          using  a  flush procedure(s) first.  This is very important, if not
          you may be opening a big can of worms (or  many  cans  of  oil  for
          sure).

          Vern Metzger