wimp@sphinx.UChicago.UUCP (Jeff Haferman) (02/20/86)
I took the filter off of my gas tank and there was quite a bit of rust caught in it. I looked around inside the gas tank and saw a couple of areas where there was rust. I'm wondering (1) What is the best way to knock all of this rust loose and rinse it out and (2) can I coat the inside of the tank with something to prevent further corrosion? Thanks. -- Jeff Haferman Usenet: ...!ihnp4!gargoyle!sphinx!wimp Bitnet: wimp%sphinx@UChicago
marauder@fluke.UUCP (Bill Landsborough) (02/25/86)
In article <1684@sphinx.UChicago.UUCP> wimp@sphinx.UChicago.UUCP (Jeff Haferman) writes: > >I took the filter off of my gas tank and there was quite a bit of rust >caught in it. I looked around inside the gas tank and saw a couple >of areas where there was rust. I'm wondering (1) What is the >best way to knock all of this rust loose and rinse it out and (2) can >I coat the inside of the tank with something to prevent further corrosion? > >Thanks. >Jeff Haferman > >Usenet: ...!ihnp4!gargoyle!sphinx!wimp >Bitnet: wimp%sphinx@UChicago Dear wimp!!???? (funny login name....) There are epoxy like products which you pour into your CLEAN tank and they set up to form a new liner. A good bike shop or mail order places like JC Whitney will have them. Bill Landsborough
wilson@convex.UUCP (02/27/86)
I would get some Muriatic acid (HCl) from a swimming pool supply house and give the (inside only, hopefully) tank a rinse with that. Dilute it at least 4:1. The only tough part is sealing the thing well enough to allow shaking the sloution around. I used duct tape, but then I'm nuts. You may wish to keep a pan of Sodium Hydroxide (Lewis Lye at the grocery store - look by the drain cleaners) solution, or at least some ammonia handy in case the unthinkable happens and you need to neutralize the acid in a big hurry. If you're crazy enough to try this, at least use some eye protection.
levy@ttrdc.UUCP (Daniel R. Levy) (02/28/86)
<Oh oh here it comes. Watch out boy, it'll chew you up! \ Oh oh here it comes. The LINE EATER! [Line eater]> In article <82800012@convex>, wilson@convex.UUCP writes: >I would get some Muriatic acid (HCl) from a swimming pool supply house >and give the (inside only, hopefully) tank a rinse with that. Dilute it >at least 4:1. The only tough part is sealing the thing well enough to >allow shaking the sloution around. I used duct tape, but then I'm nuts. >You may wish to keep a pan of Sodium Hydroxide (Lewis Lye at the grocery >store - look by the drain cleaners) solution, or at least some ammonia >handy in case the unthinkable happens and you need to neutralize the acid >in a big hurry. If you're crazy enough to try this, at least use some eye >protection. (BUNSEN BURNER ON) For goodness sakes, how stupid! Bicarbonate of soda should be used to neutral- ize acid spills, not lye or ammonia (especially if the spills are on YOU). The ammonia and lye would burn you (the lye would generate lots of heat, too). The bicarb is kept handy in chemistry labs where there is a danger of acid spills since it is harmless to people. (BUNSEN BURNER OFF) -- ------------------------------- Disclaimer: The views contained herein are | dan levy | yvel nad | my own and are not at all those of my em- | an engihacker @ | ployer or the administrator of any computer | at&t computer systems division | upon which I may hack. | skokie, illinois | -------------------------------- Path: ..!{akgua,homxb,ihnp4,ltuxa,mvuxa, vax135}!ttrdc!levy
laura@hoptoad.uucp (Laura Creighton) (02/28/86)
In article <82800012@convex> wilson@convex.UUCP writes: >I would get some Muriatic acid (HCl) from a swimming pool supply house >and give the (inside only, hopefully) tank a rinse with that. HCl is Hydrochloric acid. I don't know whether he really wants Muriatic Acid -- (I don't even know what it *is* -- and my Rubber Bible didn't move with me -- curses, another thing to replace!!) but if you go to the drug store and ask for HCl you will get a solution about as strong as vinegar. Ot at least that is what you got when I still played with chemistry sets. I have no idea what HCl (or muriatic acid, for that matter :-) ) will do to your gas tank. Laura ps -- there is alway the chance that Muriatic acid is another name for HCl that I am unaware of. Remember how much I know about Muriatic Acid. If so -- yet another reason I hate chemical nomenclature!!! -- Laura Creighton ihnp4!hoptoad!laura utzoo!hoptoad!laura sun!hoptoad!laura toad@lll-crg.arpa
bl@hplabsb.UUCP (Bruce T. Lowerre) (03/08/86)
> In article <82800012@convex> wilson@convex.UUCP writes: > >I would get some Muriatic acid (HCl) from a swimming pool supply house > >and give the (inside only, hopefully) tank a rinse with that. > > HCl is Hydrochloric acid. I don't know whether he really wants > Muriatic Acid -- (I don't even know what it *is* -- and my > Rubber Bible didn't move with me -- curses, another thing to > replace!!) but if you go to the drug store and ask for HCl you > will get a solution about as strong as vinegar. Ot at least > that is what you got when I still played with chemistry sets. > > I have no idea what HCl (or muriatic acid, for that matter :-) ) > will do to your gas tank. > > Laura > > ps -- there is alway the chance that Muriatic acid is another name for > HCl that I am unaware of. Remember how much I know about Muriatic Acid. > If so -- yet another reason I hate chemical nomenclature!!! > > -- > Laura Creighton Muriatic acid is a common name for HCl (hydorchloric acid), usually industrial strength and not very pure. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT FOR ANY FERROUS METALS! If you have corrosion in a metal tank, I would recommend something more benign like phosphoric acid (i.e., Naval Jelly). This will eat the oxide without eating the metal. The bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an excellet neutralizer of acids. The use of Na(CO3)2, sodium bicarbonate, is much safer than HaOH (sodium hydroxide, also called drain cleaner) or ammonia.
davidsen@steinmetz.UUCP (Davidsen) (03/11/86)
I'll pass on a tip I learned from people who restore old cars. To
remove rust use a product called "Navel Jelly". I suspect that the
active ingredient is oxalic acid (a weak acid about as dangerous as
lemon juice), but the stuff works. If you have a lot of rust (most old
cars do) add SMALL ball bearings or BB's to the jelly and shake gently.
After the final treatment the jelly will rinse off with water and leave
a surface which may be treated with one of the tank coatings.
If you should be so fortunate as to have access to a small cement
mixer, strap the tank (firmly) in the mixer with the jelly in it. You
may want to reposition the tank as few tumes, but it beats shaking the
tank for a hour or so. Don't use big breaings or shake hard, you can
dent the tank from the inside out, leaving dents that hardly show until
the next paint job looks like "orange peel".
--
-bill davidsen
seismo!rochester!steinmetz!--\
/ \
ihnp4! unirot ------------->---> crdos1!davidsen
\ /
chinet! ---------------------/ (davidsen@ge-crd.ARPA)
"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."kevin@imagen.UUCP (Kevin L. Malloy) (03/13/86)
> > In article <82800012@convex> wilson@convex.UUCP writes: > > >I would get some Muriatic acid (HCl) from a swimming pool supply house > > >and give the (inside only, hopefully) tank a rinse with that. > > > > HCl is Hydrochloric acid. I don't know whether he really wants > > Muriatic Acid -- (I don't even know what it *is* -- and my > > Rubber Bible didn't move with me -- curses, another thing to > > replace!!) but if you go to the drug store and ask for HCl you > > will get a solution about as strong as vinegar. Ot at least > > that is what you got when I still played with chemistry sets. > > > > I have no idea what HCl (or muriatic acid, for that matter :-) ) > > will do to your gas tank. > > > > Laura > > > > ps -- there is alway the chance that Muriatic acid is another name for > > HCl that I am unaware of. Remember how much I know about Muriatic Acid. > > If so -- yet another reason I hate chemical nomenclature!!! > > > > -- > > Laura Creighton > > Muriatic acid is a common name for HCl (hydorchloric acid), usually industrial > strength and not very pure. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT FOR ANY FERROUS METALS! > If you have corrosion in a metal tank, I would recommend something more benign > like phosphoric acid (i.e., Naval Jelly). This will eat the oxide without > eating the metal. The bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an excellet > neutralizer of acids. The use of Na(CO3)2, sodium bicarbonate, is much safer > than HaOH (sodium hydroxide, also called drain cleaner) or ammonia. There is a product that is suppose to recondition gas tanks. It's brand name is KREEM. It requires a two step process on step is using KREEM Tank Prep which "removes oil and grease, disolves rust and etches the metal prepareing the metal gas tank for KREEM GAS TANK SEALER. This is suppose to coat the tank inside sealing leaks and covering up rust. It contains a rust inhibitor. The product can be ordered from Dennis Kirk (800-328-9280). I have never used this product, however using an acid to clean the inside of tank or to remove corrosion would be the last step I would take. -- --- "If you can't trust a biker who can you trust?" Sturgis '86 Name: Kevin Malloy Mail: Imagen Corp. 2650 San Tomas Expressway, P.O. Box 58101 Santa Clara, CA 95052-9400 AT&T: (408) 986-9400 UUCP: ...{decvax,ucbvax}!decwrl!imagen!kevin
donch@teklabs.UUCP (Don Chitwood) (03/17/86)
I wanted to add to a comment on the original posting. The comment regarded the use of Naval Jelly as a rust remover. Naval Jelly contains "...oxalic acid (about as dangerous as lemon juice)." I think what the writer meant was its acidic danger with respect to skin and external parts of the body. He may well be right on that one. HOWEVER, oxalic acid is a poison. Taken internally, it can be fatal. An old memory from my dim past tells me that rhubarb leaves are poisonous because of a high oxalic acid content. Just be aware of what dangerous means is all I'm saying here. Don Chitwood Tektronix, Inc.