darryl@ism780.UUCP (03/29/84)
#R:hou2h:-34700:ism780:15800001:177600:260 ism780!darryl Mar 27 22:11:00 1984 You can buy a piezoelectric buzzer from Radio Schlock and wire it inline into your turn signals. They're small enough to put into the signal housing. A friend did it to his Moto Guzzi V50 and it worked like a charm! Darryl Richman (...!ima!ism780!darryl)
darryl@ism780.UUCP (03/29/84)
#R:proper:-106800:ism780:15800002:177600:467 ism780!darryl Mar 27 22:27:00 1984 The best magazine to get is American Motorcyclist. The best part about it is that you have to join the AMA to get it. The AMA represents motorcyclists in a positive way in Washington, all of the state capitols, and local municipalities that decide that motorcycling is wrong or too dangerous. Other perks come with the yearly membership. Call 1-800-AMA-JOIN and find out more about it. Darryl Richman (...!ima!ism780!darryl) P.S.: Keep the rubber side down!
darryl@ism780.UUCP (03/29/84)
#R:hou2h:-35800:ism780:15800003:177600:500 ism780!darryl Mar 27 22:44:00 1984 It's been spring here since October! Makes up for last year when the spring rains didn't finish until September! ______ / \ _______| |_______ / | Darryl | \ ___/|________|Richman |________|\___ / | | | | | | ...!ima | | | | | | \ | | | \`|'/ | !ism780 | \`|'/ | | | | | | -( )- | !darryl | -( )- | | | | | | /| |\ | | /| |\ | | | \_______| |___ ___| |_______/ | | |________| | | `-' `-'
mike@zinfandel.UUCP (06/02/84)
#R:bnl:-45500:zinfandel:4600028:177600:1385 zinfandel!mike May 31 17:34:00 1984 >RE: Info needed on Honda XL350 >I haven't looked into the new hardware/mods they have put on the beast >since '78, but I believe the bike hasn't changed a lot. They quit making the XL350 after 1978 and didn't make another 350 dual purpose bike until this year. It was replaced with the XL250 and XL500 in 1979. Both of the new bikes had a new engine design as well as other changes. The next change was in the rear suspension, PRO-LINK (a trade name for the latest Honda rising rate monoshock) was added so the designation had a R suffix put on it (XR500R, etc.). Then in 1983 Honda discontinued the XL500R and came out with the XL600R (I don't remember what happened to the XL250R that year). Just this year Honda released an all new XL350R (they still have the XL250R). The latest bikes (1983 and later) have another new engine design, lighter weight, bigger forks, front disk brakes (on some models), chrome-molly frame (as opposed to mild steel), etc. To make a long story short (shorter?), you probably couldn't tell that the same factory produced the 1978 XL350 and the 1984 XL350R if it wasn't for the decals on the gas tank and the factory name on the steering head! The ONLY bad news is that the price has changed also. Mike Blenderman [...!decvax!sytek!zehntel!zinfandel!mike] [...!teklabs!zehntel!zinfandel!mike] Walnut Creek, Ca. (415) 932-6900
darryl@ism780.UUCP (08/31/84)
If you're that worried about longevity, next time buy a bike with a REAL warranty! I've got almost 50k on my R65 and I've had to replace an oil pressure sender, but it was under warranty! --Darryl Richman ...!cca!ima!ism780!darryl O \ || P.S. In case you couldn't tell, == | || O / ()
darryl@haddock.UUCP (02/13/85)
[] JEB's MUST have DOT approval to be sold in the USofA as safety helmets. Most of the motorags have had helmet articles, and they all say roughly the same thing: Any helmet is far better than no helmet. A full face helmet can sometimes be better than an open face. DOT requirements aren't as stiff as Snell, but they are still good enough for "typical" accidents. Of course, lots of helmet manufacturers advertise in them, and I've yet to see any kind of product review in any of them that said "Don't buy this, it's junk". I used to have a DOT helmet; this time around I got a Snell 85, just to be sure. --Darryl Richman ...!cca!ima!ism780 P.S. So when was the last time you had a typical accident?
cliff@unmvax.UUCP (02/13/85)
> JEB's MUST have DOT approval to be sold in the USofA as safety helmets. > I have heard this from another source, and since I don't have anything to contradict it, I stand corrected. I guess the helments and boxes just don't bother to advertise this fact. It's still a great helmet. --Cliff
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (02/16/85)
It is possible that you need new shocks. The stock ones on your
900 are not known for longevity.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (02/17/85)
Performance difference is considerable.
The twin will vibrate considerably more.
I believe Yamaha discontinued it because it did not justify
its existence on the bottom line (ie. revenue).
There is nothing wrong with the Vision. If you do not plan on
taking any extended trips and do not plan on blasting up the
canyons and are happy with the Vision look then you should
save the bucks and buy the Vision.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (03/07/85)
<<<<this is NOT a flame>>>>
I just want to expand on this point about dealers and mail order
(hey, not all cyclist read net.rec.photo) briefly.
Yes, you can get good deals from reliable mail order houses and there
is no reason not to. It does pay to use a little common sense such
as recommended by williams. What you do not want to do is to use
the dealer's time and advice to try on helmets for an hour and then
walk out saying, "thanks, but you guys are too expensive, I'm ordering
from Dennis Kirk." This is just common sense (not to mention common
decency).
I have developed a great relationship with my local dealer(s). Of
course, buying a bike a year and spending $2-3K on parts during
each race season helps, but it is the effort I put into the relationship
that seems to have the most effect.
1. Don't complain about parts prices, the dealer has no control over
them unless they are selling above list.
2. Don't expect miracles on delivery times. The dealer has no control
over these beyond getting your order in promptly.
3. Be organized and know what you want when you go in to order parts.
Don't stand around trying to explain that you want one of those
dohickies that goes around the thingbobby kinda near the black
whatchamacallit.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (03/16/85)
>> /***** hpfcms:net.cycle / cmu-cs-sp!avie / 11:29 pm Mar 6, 1985*/ >> Fellow bikers: >> >> What kind of tires do you use on your bike? In particular, I have an '82 >> Kawasaki GPz 1100. Most of my riding is on rural back-roads, but I eat >> tires at the local dragway. So, I'm looking for something that will last, >> will get good traction at the drags, and will be streetable. >> Avie, methinks you ask too much. You want a good soft compound with a flattened profile (profile isn't the word I want here but I forget the word I want here) for the drags. You want a good hard compound to get the most mileage. You want fairly soft compound and regular rounded profile for the back roads. Face it, you are not going to get all of these things in a single tire. >> Also, where do you buy your tires from. My guess is that its possible to >> get a quantity discount. I usually go through 3-4 tires each summer, so >> that would be a good possibility. >> I'm not sure about quantity discounts, check with your favorite dealer. I go through several sets of tires in a summer but I usually order them from Woody's Wheel Works in Denver because he gives MRA racers a good discount and he races himself so he knows the hot set up. I avoid mail order for tires since they just are not really any cheaper by the time you pay shipping and then have them installed. >> Thanks! >> Avie Tevanian >> /* ---------- */ As for particular tires: The Dunlop K391 sport elites in either R (race) or S (street/sport) compound are good bets for your big bike. Many people like the new Metzler Lasers and Michelin has their new performance tire but the verdict isn't in on them yet. Forget about getting good mileage. Go for good traction. George Tatge Fort Collins, CO ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge
chip@t4test.UUCP (Chip Rosenthal) (03/17/85)
> From: tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) > Date: 7 Mar 85 15:55:00 GMT > > 3. Be organized and know what you want when you go in to order parts. > Don't stand around trying to explain that you want one of those > dohickies that goes around the thingbobby kinda near the black > whatchamacallit. Not everybody who attempts to do work on bikes is an expert. I pay the premium the dealer charges so I can go in and ask for a thingbobby kinda near the whatchmacallit. After all, most people aren't born with the a priori knowledge of what the thingbobby is really called. Please don't begrudge me my learning experience. -- Chip Rosenthal, Intel/Santa Clara {cbosgd,idi,intelca,icalqa,kremvax,qubix,ucscc} ! {t4test,t12tst} ! {chip,news}
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (04/09/85)
All the comments on chains and shafts have been pretty right on. Here
are a few additional notes.
There are three main problems with shaft drives as measured in performance
terms. One, they are less efficient delivery mechanisms of the power
available at transmission output. Two, they sometimes have a good deal
of lash and general slop in the system which is disconcerting at speed.
(Note that this varies *considerably* from model to model (not just
from mfg. to mfg.)) Three, (and worst of all for performance riders)
they develop a torgue at the rear axle which causes the rear end to
become unnaturally unweighted under acceleration. This is not very
troublesome in a straight line, but can leave you picking bopp dots out of
your knee cap if you grab too much throtle coming out of a turn.
However, if kept within their limits, shaft drives perform wonderfully.
Generally, you do not have to worry about what drive to pick. Most of
the big four do an excellent job of matching the type of drive to the
style of bike (with a few really dumb exceptions like the Vmax). If
you just pick the type of bike you want without even looking at the
final drive, chances are you'll find that it is just what you want.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge
p.s. Today's Maintainence Tip
When draining the oil from engine or transmission, try placing a large
container under the drain plug before removing. This has been known
to save considerable time in cleanup and considerable wrath from the
spouse.ron@hpfcmt.UUCP (ron) (04/17/85)
Re: chain vs. shaft I'm riding a CB900F with over 12,000 miles on it with the original chain. The chain is an O ring type and is less than half worn (according to the adjuster bands on the swingarm). I am extremely impressed with the life of the chain so far. I do go to some effort to keep the chain lubricated (daily sprays while touring) and I don't ride dirt roads and wash the chain in kerosene about every 5000 miles but the reliability and lack of wear has been surprising. I object to the messy rear tire and the drips of excess chain spray that accumulate under the bike at night (but not enough to do frequent wiping). Next bike I will probably be looking at a shaft drive but I'm not about to trade the bike just because it has a chain. If you can get a good deal on a chain drive machine don't let the chain worry you. It can actually be a good thing. It asks you to look at the bike frequently and could save your butt thereby. From the opinionated keyboard of: Ron Miller H-P Ft. Collins Colo. at: ... hpfcla!ron-m
ron@hpfcmt.UUCP (ron) (05/07/85)
Re: "the complete stop"
You could do the old stunt of NOT putting your feet down and using the
sidestand instead :-)
The test in Virginia was worse than a joke. It was a rip-off. It consisted
of having a very prim and proper young woman (who obviously never would
ride on 'one of those' ) stand on the sidewalk outside the building and
watch while two of us : got on our bikes, started them, rode around the outer
perimeter of a very small (but full) parking lot, parked the bikes, shut down,
and dismounted. For this the charge was $ 9. I suppose the passing
criteria was that the applicant not fall down while being observed :-$
There is a point to be observed here. If riders can be licensed without
any real demonstration of skill or sense on something which everyone
'knows' to be so dangerous, just think about how little training/testing
the automobile driver gets away with.
From the paranoid defensive driver's saddle of:
Ron ("If you come any closer I'll arm this DEVICE and blow the whole state up !"
Miller
HP Ft. Collins Systems Div.
at : {ihnp4}... hpfcla!ron-mtatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (05/08/85)
Rich, Do you know of any test reports on this product? If it really has 3X the abrasion resistance of leather I am extremely interested! George Tatge
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (05/09/85)
Well, I haven't found that issue of Cycle News yet; it's always possible my dogs used it for tug of war. I do remember that it was F1 that Freddie also won (of course). I'd try harder to find the news but right now I'm taking off for my own first race of the season. I won't be riding against Freddie or Eddie but I do have Ricky Orlando and others to face. gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (05/14/85)
Actually, with the right tools, you can change the tire on your alloy
rim. There is a nifty little device called a "Tire Breezer" whcih
makes the job a relative snap. It sells for about $10. It is made
of aluminum rod stock and has a lip which fits on your rim edge. You
get the bead broken and then put this baby in there and tap it around
with a hammer (put lots of soap on the tire bead for lube) lightly
and the job is done in a few minutes.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (05/16/85)
I agree with your (?!?) on the 500 being too small and the 700 too big.
Oh well, at least he knows what he wants. If he is going to do generic
riding I would suggest that he look closely at the Yamaha FJ600 which
is a little less hyper than the Ninja. This is not to say that the FJ
is anything short of a wonderful high performance sporting bike. The
best thing about the baby Ninja is its beautiful fairing and paint job.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (05/16/85)
Thanks for the report! It's always nice to hear first hand experience with new products. It can save the rest of us a lot of time and trouble.
ron@hpfcmt.UUCP (ron) (06/19/85)
What to start out on ...... another opinion on things to look for.
I started out on a Suzuki GS425E twin. It was a very nice bike, the
right size, enough power, reliable etc. However, after trading it in
for an 82 CB900F I find that the biggest thing for my greater satisfaction
with the Honda is not the power but the suspension. The ride on the 900 is
orders of magnitude better for a couple of reasons. First, the mass of the
bike means that bumps and crosswinds are not as large relative to the
effect possible on the bike (i.e. same bump = less disturbance on board).
Second, the suspension setup on the 900 is vastly superior to the one on my
old GS. The GS had a very simple system with plain front forks and dual
shocks in the rear. The only (easy) adjustment available was rear spring
pre-load. The 900 has an air front fork and variable rate damping available
in the rear. Third, the 4 cylinder 900 is just a smoother engine than the
425 twin. The GS was a bit buzzy at highway speeds and tended to feel like
it was working hard (even though it really wasn't).
I put quite a few miles on the GS and was very glad I started with it
because the size was right but after a couple of years I was ready to
move on because the feature set wasn't complete. Nowadays I suspect that
you could find most of my objections to my old GS taken care of by more
sophisticated mid-sized machines but still, take note that it is not ONLY
size that makes a difference in long term satisfaction but also the features
of the machine. Also note that the smaller bike is nicer to handle in the
parking lots but if you want to ride for the afternoon you will REALLY know
whether your suspension is adequate !
Happy Riding
Ron Miller
Hewlett-Packard , Ft. Collins Systems Div.
Ft. Collins, Colo.
at :{ihnp4}!hpfcla!ronron@hpfcmt.UUCP (ron) (06/19/85)
Re: GS850 vs. CB900F
I have an 82 900F and, though I don't ride it especially hard, have
to say that I have had NO problems and am quite happy with the beast.
The stock tires wore out fairly quickly but that's all I've had to do to
it outside of oil change, swingarm grease, and chain adjustments
A worthwhile tech tip: There is material available in some auto parts stores
called "silicone dielectric grease." This stuff is a goop which can be put
onto connector contacts which then seals over the top of the metal-to-metal
connection. It prevents corrosion and intermittent contact. I highly recommend
it for bikes since their wiring tends to be exposed to moisture fairly frequently. Cars can use it too if you want to take the time to do it.
Happy Riding
Ron Miller
{ihnp4}!hpfcla!rontatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (06/20/85)
Here is a simple test to make sure it's your charging capacity and
not something more obscure:
1. Remove the headlight element (since there is no switch to turn it off)
OR
1. Look at the wiring diagram and see if the hdlght/tlght is fused
separately from the turn signals; if it is, pull the h/t fuse.
2. Now try the turn signals and see if they work normally. If they
don't, the chances are that it is NOT the charging system.
If they do work properly then you have a charging system problem and
should:
A. Take the battery to someone who can test it and make sure it is good.
If it is the original battery it may not be. You could charge it forever
and it wouldn't work right. If not (or if marginal) replace it and
that may very well solve all the problems.
B. If the battery checks out, it is time to dig into the altenator/reg.
What you really need is a shop manual at this point (or else just
some money to replace everything).
Not having a schematic for the 400 or really being familiar with it
I can't be sure how it is wired or even if it uses a solid state
regulator (but it must I would think). The following instructions
might not apply, but it should be obvious when they don't; again
your best ally is a shop manual.
1. Disconnect the regulator plug and test impedances. Use a portable
type of ohm meter, not a plug in one. You should be able to isolate
one wire from the other three (maybe four) such that you have a
virtual open when the ohm meter leads are connected one way and a
virtual short when you connect them the other way (you're just
reverse or forward biasing the rectifier diodes). You should also
have a virtual open from this one wire (the one which goes to your
main fuse it should be) to the chasis ground on the regulator box.
If it doesn't pass this test then you know it is bad, if it does then
it is probably good but no 100% guarantees. If it is bad, then
replace it and replace the stator in your altenator since it is
a good bet you'll be sorry if you don't. If it does pass then try:
2. Check the altenator. There should be three leads coming from it
and you should find a mutual impedance between any pair of something
between 3-4 and 100 ohms. This can vary widely, but it must NOT be
a dead short (make sure you calibrate the ohm meter) nor should it
be very high. Also check from each lead to chasis ground and make
sure there is significant impedance (what's significant? hard to
say). If it fails this test then replace the stator AND the regulator.
If everything passes all of these tests then you need an on site
trouble shooter or a healthy checking balance so you can just start
replacing things.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge
p.s. Today's Handy Hint
(see note above)tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/03/85)
Well Cliff, it could be one of several things. I'll give you a list
which is probably 90% complete.
1. You ran it out of 2 stroke oil. You wouldn't do that would you?
2. Your oil pump was improperly adjusted and did not feed sufficient oil
to the carbs.
3. Your oil pump got air in the lines somehow (maybe you ran it out of
oil once or disconnected the feed line or turned the bike upside down
to lube the chain), if so, it needs to be bled.
4. Your vent tube on the oil reservoir is pinched or plugged.
5. You bought some cheap gas with methanol in it and then let the
bike sit around for awhile. The alchohol separated from the gas and
then combined with some moisture. This deadly mixture sank to the
bottom of your gas tank and you ran on a bad cocktail for awhile.
6. You developed an air leak in your intake tract somewhere which caused
the bike to lean out which made it overheat.
7. You tried running it WFO for two hours and it just couldn't take it.
If your dealer can't pinpoint the problem, send me an exhaustive
explanation of what everything looked like.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgetatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/03/85)
Buy it. That's a good price and it's a good bike. It will outperform
your old CB in nearly every category.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge
p.s. it just so happens that my top notch race mechanic is here and
he is a Vision nut. He even used to race one! He insists you should
buy it right now.tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/03/85)
Your friend is right... and since you're not that lazy you should go ahead and turn it around. gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/03/85)
Try a dirt bike mag. Or ask your dealer. I don't have a dirt bike mag. with me here. gt
ron@hpfcmt.UUCP (ron) (07/10/85)
Re: Freeways far safer.......
That statement can be misinterpreted several ways. For the same trip I
would agree that, yes, the freeway is the safest way to go .... BUT,
I find crowded situations such as rush hour near Denver to be so chaotic
that I WOULD NOT ride my bike there. We just have too many lane swooping
maniacs all packed into too small a space (stop-and-go traffic) to be able
to defend against them all.
But if you mean that the stretch between the cities is better ridden on
the interstate then, Amen.
Ron Miller
at : {ihnp4}hpfcla!rontatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/15/85)
You should have had plenty of room for the 120/90 on your RZ.
I would guess, that if you had added an extra master link in your
chain, you would have been fine. I have run a 130/90 K391 on the
rear of mine and had no problem, but I did have to back the axle
all the way back in the swing arm slot. I don't think you
should really go back to a 110/90 unless you want to. If you
want a rear tire that works really well and looks good on the
RZ than put on a Michelin Hi-Sport 130/70. I've run those on my
RZ super bike and RZ production racer with good luck. Also check my
note on the new Conti sport tires.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge
#! rnewtatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/17/85)
One important question first, did you lock up the front wheel when you grabbed the brakes? gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/17/85)
Doug is probably right, but there is a slight chance that the shift mechanicsm inside the side cover is somewhat out of adjustment. Check this before you split the cases to look at the tranny. gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/17/85)
Gee, can an ex-dirt rider become road racer jump in here? When I was a poor kid growing up in the S. Cal. mountains, I used to have a Suzuki 80 I would ride down to the desert and try to kill myself on all day. I had to fix my flats to get home. One thing that works pretty well is stuffing the flat full of all kinds of assorted weeds and junk (don't use cactus though). You can usually get enough stuff in there to keep off of the rim for the long, slow ride home. gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/17/85)
They are not illegal, but can be impractical if they do not make enough clear, loud sound to be heard over wind noise. The only way to tell is to try a particular system on your bike. gt
tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) (07/17/85)
We had a big discussion on this about a year ago I think. I believe the emphasis then was on oncomming semis. I've ridden that stretch (and other front range wind routes) a number of times and it can be a real b***h. One tip that you may have already discovered is to always be aware of upcomming wind shelters. When your tooling along with a stiff side wind, you are leaned into the wind considerably. When you pass a little hill or anything that blocks the wind, you instantly turn into the direction of the missing wind. All you can do is watch for those things coming and be prepared to "corner." I've heard all kinds of theories about going fast or going slow. What it all boils down to is what you feel most confident with. It's true you have more stability if you are doing 100mph, but you might not feel too comfortable that way. gt
tatge@hpfcla.UUCP (tatge) (07/22/85)
Less than $4000 for true love. Why should you need convincing? Do it today! gt
tatge@hpfcla.UUCP (tatge) (07/23/85)
Ahhh, the wonders of modern "hi tech." Be of good cheer that you are not
alone in this problem. It is one that occurrs all over the country.
The sensors are simple current loops around the lane which of course
generate a magnetic field. When any significant amount of ferrite
metal is in the center of the loop, it increases the flux and is detected
by sensors. The adjustment on these things has a very wide range. I
am told that they can set them to detect a toy Tonka truck (the real
metal kind) if they want to. The problems are obvious, if they set
them too sensitive then they will be getting tripped off when they
shouldn't and then you have the frustrating problem of every one
sitting at the intersection waiting for nothing to go by (which is
what these sensors are trying to avoid in the first place). The
other problem is motorcycles and bicycles.
Yes, there is something you can do. I had the exact problem you
describe on my route to work. After getting tired of running the red
light (actually getting scared I would get a ticket) I called the local
traffic engineer and explained the situation. I gave him as many exact
details as possible. I was able to specify exactly two sensors in
an intersection with over a dozen. He was very happy for the input and
said he would look into it which he must have because the problem went
away after about a month. I was not really expecting to have anything
done about it but I made sure I left the man my name, phone number,
place of occupation, etc. I also got his name, etc. This way, I
fully intended to call him as a witness in a court hearing if I got
a ticket for going through the eternal red light.
I suggest you gather data, write it down and then make the six or seven
phone calls it will take to get to the real traffic engineer whom you
need to talk to. Be polite, let him/her know that you understand the
difficulty in keeping the sensors fine tuned and that you just thought
you could help by pointing out a few that needed tuning. I also
suggest you do the personal data exchange and then call this person
as a witness if you do get a ticket.
George Tatge
Fort Collins, CO
ihnp4!hpfcla!tatgeroy@hpmtla.UUCP (roy) (07/25/85)
>Surprisingly, he's a very safe driver -- he's >never been in an accident. Safe??? or lucky. Anyone who drives 120 mph through town is hardly a safe driver. If he takes that kind of risk, its his own business, but when there are other riders, drivers, children,...etc... Roy
ron@hpfcla.UUCP (ron) (07/26/85)
"He's a safe driver, he's never had an accident .....120mph in town"
That's clever. He's a safe driver because HE doesn't get hurt. He just
causes others to react to what he's doing (possibly crash themselves).
A cycle at 120mph in town is basically an unpredictable occurrence for
the other drivers he swoops past. Unpredictable drivers cause OTHERS
to have the accidents. Clever but still indefensible.
(Example: the motor home driver who passed in a tunnel here in colorado
and caused a collision between a gasoline tanker and a caddy resulting
in the loss of 3 lives. But the motor home driver didn't have and
accident and so must be a safe driver.......)
Ron Miller ("Am I the ONLY one in Colorado who signals BEFORE a lane change?")
H-P Ft. Collins Systems Div.
Ft. Collins Colo.
at: {ihnp4}hpfcla!ronwilson@convex.UUCP (09/15/85)
After looking at several offerings of service manuals over the years, I've
come to the conclusion that there is no substitute for a factory service
manual. Books like Chilton's and Clymer's are in some cases easier to
follow due to rough translations of Japanese manuals. Unfortunately the
aftermarket manuals often lack important information and usually attempt
to cover more than one model year and/or model with a single book. Even
though the models covered may be very similar it is often helpful to have
pictures and figures that look exactly like the bike you're working on.
Since you're just getting started, you might also take a look at a general
purpose book like Chilton's "Motorcycle Repair Manual" which contains infor-
mation assumed by many factory service manuals, discussion of various gasket
sealers, how to remove broken screws, etc.
Sometimes you get even more than just a repair manual from the manufacturer.
My old Husquavarna manual had a chapter on physical conditioning. Greeves
manuals of the same era had white covers that came "pre-smudged" with a
greasy fingerprint. Over the years numerous Honda manuals had theory of
operation sections with a wealth of information about valve rotation,
piston ring wear, why pistons aren't round, how rectifiers work (without
resorting to solid state physics), and much more.
Stuart Wilson
Convex Computer Corp.
Richardson, Texas
{inhp4,allegra,uiucdcs,ctvax}!convex!wilsonshilo@t4test.UUCP (Shilo Jennings) (09/27/85)
> From: wilson@convex.UUCP > Date: 14 Sep 85 21:19:00 GMT > > After looking at several offerings of service manuals over the years, I've > come to the conclusion that there is no substitute for a factory service > manual. Books like Chilton's and Clymer's are in some cases easier to > follow due to rough translations of Japanese manuals. Unfortunately the ^^^^^^^^ You know the moral of that story, don't you? BUY AN AMERICAN BIKE! The factory manual is pretty easy to read and the bike(i mean Harley,of course) is a piece of cake to work on. Happy Motoring! -sjc-
schwager@uiucdcs.CS.UIUC.EDU (09/30/85)
> > You know the moral of that story, don't you? BUY AN AMERICAN BIKE! > The factory manual is pretty easy to read and the bike(i mean Harley,of > course) is a piece of cake to work on. Happy Motoring! > > -sjc- > /* End of text from uiucdcs:net.cycle */ Ok, I'm game... I'll be selling my Honda CX500 soon, in order to get a larger four cylinder bike. I need a used Harley, mid sized (about 550-750). Do they make 'em? Does Harley make anything without $3000 worth of chrome on it? From what I've seen of Harleys, their bikes are built mostly for cruising and looking cool (with the possible exception of a huge touring machine I saw recently), and they're BIG. They seem to cater to a certain mystique, instead of the average joe like myself who wants something economical and reliable. -mike schwager -- {ihnp4,convex,pur-ee}!uiucdcs!schwager schwager%uiuc@csnet-relay.arpa
animal@ihlpa.UUCP (D. Starr) (10/01/85)
> (Why do I suspect that I'm just answering a bunch of rhetorical questions?) > Ok, I'm game... I'll be selling my Honda CX500 soon, in order to get a > larger four cylinder bike. I need a used Harley, mid sized (about > 550-750). Do they make 'em? If you insist on four cylinders, no they don't. Similarly, if you insist on four-valve heads, fuel injection and 250 horsepower at 25000 rpm, you're looking in the wrong place. On the other hand, they do make an excellent 883cc V-twin. Its power output is in the 550-650 4-cylinder class (twins inherently put out less HP than fours, but make up for it with torque and tractability), it weighs under 500 pounds wet and handles very nicely under just about any conditions, including lack of pavement. > Does Harley make anything without $3000 worth > of chrome on it? From what I've seen of Harleys, their bikes are built > mostly for cruising and looking cool I have an '83 Sportster with exactly one chrome part on it. Everything else is painted either black or matte silver (I have come to like the matte silver a *LOT*--it survives Chicago winters so much better than chrome or polished aluminum, and it's easier to clean). SOME of their bikes are built for cruising and looking cool. So are some of Honda's, and everybody else's for that matter. > (with the possible exception of a > huge touring machine I saw recently), and they're BIG. Size is sometimes deceiving. The 883 Sportster looks big, and the displacement sounds big until you ride it. 500 pounds is generally considered light for a Japanese 750. Again, SOME of their bikes (especially in the touring area) are large. But the biggest H-D tourer is still substantially (like up to 200 pounds) lighter than the biggest bikes from Honda, Suzuki and especially Kawasaki. > They seem to cater to a certain mystique, instead of the average joe like > myself who wants something economical My 883 Sportster averages about 65 mpg and cost $4000 new. If you want anything more economical, try a Yugo. > and reliable. So far this year, the 883 (an 86 model) has 7000 miles on it without problems. When I change the oil, it comes out so clean I'm tempted to re-use it in my car. As for longer-term reliability, my '83 Sportster has 30000 miles on it and my FXRT (a dressed touring bike) is showing very close to 50000 without significant maintenance problems. > -mike schwager > -- {ihnp4,convex,pur-ee}!uiucdcs!schwager schwager%uiuc@csnet-relay.arpa If you're really interested in a Harley, you should stop by your local dealer and take the 883 for a ride (this is usually not too hard to do--Harley is trying to establish its reputation as "the demo ride company"). You might also check out the reviews of the bike in Motorcyclist (August), Cycle World (September) and Road Rider (October). (By the way, Bob Carpenter of Road Rider is right about the PITA seat, but you should be able to talk your dealer into giving you the good one for free.) Dan Starr P. S: The mystique is free.
grego@athena.UUCP (Grego Sanguinetti) (10/02/85)
> > From: wilson@convex.UUCP > > Date: 14 Sep 85 21:19:00 GMT > > > > After looking at several offerings of service manuals over the years, I've > > come to the conclusion that there is no substitute for a factory service > > manual. Books like Chilton's and Clymer's are in some cases easier to > > follow due to rough translations of Japanese manuals. Unfortunately the > ^^^^^^^^ > You know the moral of that story, don't you? BUY AN AMERICAN BIKE! > The factory manual is pretty easy to read and the bike(i mean Harley,of > course) is a piece of cake to work on. Happy Motoring! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > -sjc- (-: ...and you're sure to get a LOT of practice! :-) -ghs-
wdh@edison.UUCP (Bill D. Hiller) (10/02/85)
> > > > > You know the moral of that story, don't you? BUY AN AMERICAN BIKE! > > The factory manual is pretty easy to read and the bike(i mean Harley,of > > course) is a piece of cake to work on. Happy Motoring! > > > > -sjc- > > /* End of text from uiucdcs:net.cycle */ > > Ok, I'm game... I'll be selling my Honda CX500 soon, in order to get a > larger four cylinder bike. I need a used Harley, mid sized (about > 550-750). Do they make 'em? Does Harley make anything without $3000 worth > of chrome on it? From what I've seen of Harleys, their bikes are built > mostly for cruising and looking cool (with the possible exception of a > huge touring machine I saw recently), and they're BIG. > They seem to cater to a certain mystique, instead of the average joe like > myself who wants something economical and reliable. > -mike schwager > -- {ihnp4,convex,pur-ee}!uiucdcs!schwager schwager%uiuc@csnet-relay.arpa You might consider looking into the new 883(cc) Sportster as an alternative to the purchase of a used machine. This latest Milwaukee offering is a blend of traditional no-bullshit sportster styling and the current V-2 Evolution engine configuration. Check it out in the september Cycle and then go ride one, if your local dealer has managed to keep any in stock. If you've never ridden a Harley, be prepared for the torquey, viscerally American interpretation of transfer of power to the ground. It's a lot different, and inherently more satisfying, than the ricegrinder alternative. Best of all, the 1986 price for this model is $3995, which effectively negates the "can't afford a Harley" excuse. - Bill Hiller, GE/RVSD Charlottesville
schwager@uiucdcs.CS.UIUC.EDU (10/03/85)
> /* Written 5:41 pm Oct 1, 1985 by grego@athena.UUCP in uiucdcs:net.cycle */ > > You know the moral of that story, don't you? BUY AN AMERICAN BIKE! > > The factory manual is pretty easy to read and the bike(i mean Harley,of > > course) is a piece of cake to work on. Happy Motoring! > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > -sjc- > > (-: ...and you're sure to get a LOT of practice! :-) > > -ghs- > /* End of text from uiucdcs:net.cycle */ Well, animal@ihlpa convinced me otherwise. And lo and behold, what appears to my wondering eyes, but an article on the front page of today's (10/3) New York Times business section: "_Harley-Davidson Roars Back_" To quote selected sections: "...the Harley-Davidson Motor Company has made enormous changes, slashing costs and bolstering quality. It has come so far that today executives of other companies attend its monthly seminars on efficient management." -What of Harley's bad rep? ""Quality went to hell, and labor relations went to pot," Mr. Beals [CEO and chairman] said..." -And now? "...as a result of these changes [improving quality & labor relations, and adapting Japanese management techniques], 99 percent of motorcycles coming off the line at the York plant are free of defects, compared with 50 percent five years ago. Costs of fixing motorcycles on warranty have also plummeted." -mike schwager -- {ihnp4,convex,pur-ee}!uiucdcs!schwager schwager%uiuc@csnet-relay.arpa
mccabe@ccvaxa.UUCP (10/05/85)
Harley Davidson needed improvement in quality and workmanship but where their real problem lies is in their research and development. HD has produced the same style engine and frame (short of some cosmetic changes) for over the last twenty years. The Japanese bikes in comparison to the Harleys cost less, go faster, stop quicker, and have frames that can handle the engines performance. As far as Harleys being American made many Japanese bikes are now assembled in the States, while Harley Davidson has just purchased a factory in Germany to begin producing the Nova. .....mccabe
shilo@t4test.UUCP (Shilo Jennings) (10/10/85)
> > larger four cylinder bike. I need a used Harley, mid sized (about > 550-750). Do they make 'em? Does Harley make anything without $3000 worth They make alot of bikes without any chrome. The only thing less than 800cc is the XR750 race machine, but I don't think that's what you want! Go check out your nearest Harley dealer, you'll be surprised. They have just come out with a new version of a Sportster, as I recall the 880. Here in Calif it is sellling at $3995. Lightweight (~<500lbs.), clean - looking(but no chrome!), 45 or more MPG, and they have the 'new evolution' heads,ie very reliable as long as you change the oil now and then :). This is no harder to handle than a 550. I rode a 1000cc Sporty for 6 years, and had no problems with it breaking down, handling or weight-wise(even weighing less than 140 lbs. myself). However this year my husband bought me a new 1340 cc low glide and I would never ride anything else now. SO, CHECK IT OUT! As the old saying goes, try it you'll like it.
ted@inmet.UUCP (10/18/85)
As someone who nearly got killed by one of those *ssholes last year, (a dope in a truck decided to pull a U-turn across the flow of traffic at 9am rush-hour -- after seeing me in his rearveiw no less!!!), I'm all for the small thermonuclear missle launcher option for motorcycles. In the Boston area, these boneheaded people are TAUGHT to drive incorrectly for example, the other day, I came up behind a "driver education" car who was waiting to perform a left turnoff, he (or should I say, it) was positioned diagonally across the right hand lane, with his wheels turned into the oncoming traffic, and of course, no turn signal. The "instructor" in the car was not saying a word, and appeared to feel nothing was wrong with the situation. Actually, the instructor looked as though he was biding his time until his shift was over so he could start his drinking. The safest thing to remember when driving a motorcycle in the states is that all those people are complete and blithering idiots with absolutely no perception of their environment, besides where the cigarette lighter is, or the mirror for fixing their hair/makeup. Stay as far away from them as humanly possible, for the police are incapable of performing their job of keeping the idiots off the road. The jerk that hit me was stoned at the time, and I'll never get him to serve day one of jail time for his stupidity. But, I'd ride a bike again, that is if I did'nt have a brother who promised to rip my head off if I get near another street bike. I'm fortunate in that I was able to retain all my parts, but that was only because I was a block from a hospital (my foot was severed), but alot of people aren't so lucky. People need to have impressed upon them that they are handling a lethal weapon, not just a means of transportation, and that driving a vehicle doesnt mean you stick your brain in the glove box when the engine is started... Sorry, I didn't mean to flame. Be careful riding, there are alot of idiots out there...
gt@hpfcla.UUCP (01/09/86)
Most important tip: Before trying to back down, have the passenger carefully dismount. George Tatge
steven@tifsie (05/08/86)
/* Written 12:19 pm Apr 28, 1986 by alanj@orca.UUCP in tifsie:net.cycle */ >>I am in the market for a new bike (presently own a 1982 Honda FT500 >>Ascot) and have narrowed my choices down to the Honda Nighthawks. >>Can anyone out there provide me with their experiences or opinions >>about these two bikes ? >I also am a happy Nighthawk owner. I picked up a new '85 650 for $2345 >I'm not an particularly experienced rider -- about a year on my CM540E. >>The 450 was fast enought for me, but a bit rough and too light, and too >small for my body -- my legs cramped up after about 1/2 hour of riding. >I was looking for (1) four cylinders and (2) a quieter engine, and (3) a >I think the 700S is rather ugly, the low maintenance >and looks sold me on the 650. The ride and handling have kept me sold. >(I have a friend that thinks the 700S is the prettiest bike out there. >No accounting for taste!) >In general: Yes, go grab one! > -Alan Jeddeloh > tektronix!orca!alanj >Question for Portland area readers: I'm not too impressed with Beaverton >Honda's service department. Any recommendations? > -AJ I just screamed through my 6000th mile. My 'S' and I had a small celebration with a tankful of 100 octane premium out on some rather unchallenging Texas highways. I am not real sure where the comments about the "uglyness" of the Nighthawk S are coming from, unless it is because of the poor cosmetic changes that Honda made to the 86's, if that is the case, I agree, but if you are refering to the 84 or 85 models, you have got to be the exception(s). I bought my bike 1 year ago (yes from beaverton Honda, and I was not real impressed, I've heard St. Johns is better) and road until mid summer on some of the meanest roads I could find in Oregon, the trips to the coast were fantastic. Not only does the S handle well, but it turns heads everywhere. I have never gone on a ride or pulled into a gas station without having someone comment (very sincerely) "Nice bike!". I usually just smile. If you want to avoid constant and expensive shop maintenance, this is your bike. If you want performance that will consistently amaze you and the guy that thought his Interceptor, Ninja, etc.. was such hot shit, this is your bike. If you want something that looks as good going 110 MPH down a winding highway as it does under the streetlights around 11:00, this is your bike. You have already narrowed your choice down to the best two bikes (in my own humble opinion) on the market for all purpose riding (and even 'specialty' riding in alot of cases) so have no fear of choosing the wrong one, but the 85 S is probably a better looking machine in the publics eye than the 86. This is not just a fanatics view point. I did A LOT of homework before choosing the Nighthawk S, and I am the kind of person that is concerned with performance as well as style, I'll probably buy a Jaguar some day... -Steven Speer Texas Inst. (but Oregon native). ...!ticsl!tifsie!steven
jesus@ihlpa.UUCP (Paden) (05/13/86)
> > /* Written 12:19 pm Apr 28, 1986 by alanj@orca.UUCP in tifsie:net.cycle */ > >>I am in the market for a new bike (presently own a 1982 Honda FT500 > >>Ascot) and have narrowed my choices down to the Honda Nighthawks. > >>Can anyone out there provide me with their experiences or opinions > >>about these two bikes ? > > >I also am a happy Nighthawk owner. I picked up a new '85 650 for $2345 > > >I'm not an particularly experienced rider -- about a year on my CM540E. > >>The 450 was fast enought for me, but a bit rough and too light, and too > >small for my body -- my legs cramped up after about 1/2 hour of riding. > >I was looking for (1) four cylinders and (2) a quieter engine, and (3) a > >I think the 700S is rather ugly, the low maintenance > >and looks sold me on the 650. The ride and handling have kept me sold. > >(I have a friend that thinks the 700S is the prettiest bike out there. > >No accounting for taste!) > > >In general: Yes, go grab one! > > > -Alan Jeddeloh > > tektronix!orca!alanj > > >Question for Portland area readers: I'm not too impressed with Beaverton > >Honda's service department. Any recommendations? > > > -AJ > > I just screamed through my 6000th mile. My 'S' and I had a small > celebration with a tankful of 100 octane premium out on some rather > unchallenging Texas highways. I am not real sure where the comments about > the "uglyness" of the Nighthawk S are coming from, unless it is because of > the poor cosmetic changes that Honda made to the 86's, if that is the case, > I agree, but if you are refering to the 84 or 85 models, you have got to be > the exception(s). I bought my bike 1 year ago (yes from beaverton Honda, > and I was not real impressed, I've heard St. Johns is better) and road until > mid summer on some of the meanest roads I could find in Oregon, the trips to > the coast were fantastic. Not only does the S handle well, but it turns > heads everywhere. I have never gone on a ride or pulled into a gas station > without having someone comment (very sincerely) "Nice bike!". I usually > just smile. If you want to avoid constant and expensive shop maintenance, > this is your bike. If you want performance that will consistently amaze you > and the guy that thought his Interceptor, Ninja, etc.. was such hot shit, > this is your bike. If you want something that looks as good going 110 MPH > down a winding highway as it does under the streetlights around 11:00, this > is your bike. You have already narrowed your choice down to the best two > bikes (in my own humble opinion) on the market for all purpose riding (and > even 'specialty' riding in alot of cases) so have no fear of choosing the > wrong one, but the 85 S is probably a better looking machine in the publics > eye than the 86. This is not just a fanatics view point. I did A LOT of > homework before choosing the Nighthawk S, and I am the kind of person that > is concerned with performance as well as style, I'll probably buy a Jaguar > some day... > > -Steven Speer > Texas Inst. (but Oregon native). > ...!ticsl!tifsie!steven I don't know why everyone is having such a hard time finding a great looking, high performance cruiser. I brought a black 1985 VF700c(MAGNA). I had an aggressor fairing mounted on it. It's sharp, turns heads, gets compliments. Run's like an angel out of heaven on a mission. Well close. If I ride into chicago some person of the female gender usually tries to pick me up in 10 min. Though I have to decline, it feels good to be admired. Now the question is it me or is it my MAGNA? ______________________________________________________________________________ Can't stand the thought of incurable diseases. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
berger@clio.Uiuc.ARPA (08/03/86)
Ok, now that we've seen your statistics, I'm interested in seeing the causal link that shows that lack of helmets was responsible for the reduction in fatalities.
hamilton@uiucuxc.CSO.UIUC.EDU (08/29/86)
speaking of insurance, i was a bit surprized (and disappointed!) that
i was asked only about accident & violation history (not specifically
motorcycle history at that). nothing about length of experience with
motorcycles, and being a MSF alumni counted for nothing. they did ask
the age and size of my bike, but i suspect that was solely a measure of
the bike's value for the collision and theft coverage.
wayne hamilton
U of Il and US Army Corps of Engineers CERL
UUCP: {ihnp4,pur-ee,convex}!uiucdcs!uiucuxc!hamilton
ARPA: hamilton%uiucuxc@a.cs.uiuc.edu USMail: Box 476, Urbana, IL 61801
CSNET: hamilton%uiucuxc@uiuc.csnet Phone: (217)333-8703
CIS: [73047,544] PLink: w hamiltonttt@trsvax.UUCP (09/12/86)
>>P.S. I have placed the 1985 Honda V65 Sabre on my possibility list. There >>are still some new non-current models available. >Good idea, look for non-current models. I've seen V65's for $3K in the >SF bay area! Not a bad price. >Go for it.... >Tim Ehrhart i just purchased a new '85 V65 Magna for $3425 here in Ft. Worth, and i was wondering... Does it has the same engine as the V65 Sabre mentioned above. So far i love my Magna, 150 miles, in two days. just wondering... ttt@trsvax any comments via mail on the Magna would be appreciated.