jerryp@tekid.UUCP (06/09/83)
To shoot very small things, you'll want a tripod... to keep your camera steady. If you're using a tripod, that means that time exposures shouldn't be a problem (as long as you use a cable release for your shutter). So, instead of buying a fancy lens, try some extension tubes with your normal lens. They fit between the camera body and your lens. You'll have to use a longer exposure time, but if you have an SLR camera, the built-in light meter will take care of that. Some of the new zoom/macro lenses aren't bad... but I wonder if you can find one that'll give you the magnification you need, and sharpness as good as extension tubes, without spending hundreds of $$$. --Jerry Peek D.S. 39-285; Tektronix, Inc.; P.O. Box 500; Beaverton, OR 97077 503/627-3124 uucp: {ucbvax,decvax,chico,pur-ee,cbosg,ihnss}!tektronix!tekid!jerryp CSnet: tekid!jerryp@tektronix ARPA: tekid!jerryp.tektronix@rand-relay
jrf@hp-pcd.UUCP (06/11/83)
#R:ihldt:-166500:hp-pcd:7800018:000:886 hp-pcd!jrf Jun 10 09:15:00 1983 When choosing a lens, quality should be your greatest concern (not to mention whether the lens is compatible - the mount - with your camera body). I suggest a macro lens: with some manufacturers this means the simple ability to focus on close objects; with others theirs lens is optimized for close focusing (has to do with the moving lens elements). For greatest quality I suggest the latter, with fixed focal length. Light will also (probably) be a problem, especially if you want to stop down farenough to get greatest depth of field. A detachable flash and/or a flash with bounce capability will help. Some lens have flash rings on the end to solve this problem (an example of this is the 200mm Medical Nikkor). Also, use a tripod and remote triggering device. (Another note on light: you may find reflectors useful for uniform subject coverage) jrf