toddv@tekmdp.UUCP (06/09/83)
In answer to an inquiry by mail. Thought I would post to the net.
The film is actually Kodak movie film trailer.
It is marketed under the "names" of 5247 and 5293.
I prefer the 5293 for both color and speed.
5247:
ASA rated at 100.
May be pushed to 400 and it still looks better than the Kodak film
you can buy in the department store.
5293:
ASA rated at 250.
May be pushed to 1000. I push it to 1000 (most often) and 500 (sometimes)
and I have not been dissapointed. When I'm shooting in low light situations,
I typically expose it at 800 and have it processed at 1000.
With extreme low light, you get the picture but there is some graniness.
There is no problem with normal indoor lighting.
I typically use a flash with the ASA 1000 to give my flash more reach. The
resultant photos are excelent.
Both these films may be exposed under tungsten lighting with no ill effect.
You must simply tell the lab to compensate for this.
Of course, each roll must be shot at the same film speed and lighting (tungsten
or daylight).
I have experienced some problems with shooting ASA 1000 at the beach (same roll
was used indoors and out). My Rollei SL35E only goes to 1/1600th of a second.
At f22 this is often inadequate (even with exposure compensation for the beach).
I don't have any neutral density filters. Watch out for difficulties such as
this. My solution was to buy a Nikon FE2 (1/4000th) but I don't have a lens
for it yet.
PRICES
For developing and mounting slides, a roll of uncut negatives in a protective
liner, and a new roll of film, the charge (recently raised) is $6.50 (six fifty)
I don't recall the price for slides, negatives, and prints. (~17.00 ouch!)
No extra charge for push processing.
DISADVANTAGES
You can't take your film just anywhere to have it developed. Only labs
set up for this kind of film can process it (not Fotomat or Fox Photo).
Reprints from your negatives can cost more (I think). I haven't really
checked the prices for three or four years so I'm not positive about this.
ADVANTAGES
Imagine carrying a roll of film that you can shoot either tungsten or daylight,
at ASA 250, 500, or 1000! That's 6 combo's! If you go indoors (natural
lighting) to outdoors and back again alot, you can simply buy an 85B filter
and put it on when you go outdoors (it will even help cut out some light
outdoors). That means of course developing your film as tungsten.
(Don't use an 80A indoors and develop as daylight. The 80A will cost you
lots of light indoors which is precisely the ennvironment that you need all
the light you can get.)
If this is confusing, you don't really need to worry about it. Just pretend
your shooting ektachrome.
MY SUPPLIER
I use MSI Color Labs in Portland OR:
MSI Color Labs
6018 SE 45th
Portland, OR 97206
They also have labs in Woodland Hills CA and Jamaica NY. Write to the above
address for film. Cost is 2.25 per roll to buy it plus postage. (I'd give
them 37 cents for the first roll and 34 cents for each additional roll).
You might just inquire about their rates first and save yourself guessing.
DISCLAIMER
I assume no responsibility for your interactions with this company. I do not
work for or own stock in this company. I have found them helpful in my
photograpic efforts. Act on this article at your own risk.
Todd Vierheller
UUCP: ...!{ucbvax or decvax}!teklabs!tekmdp!toddv (ignore return address)
CSNET: tekmdp!toddv @ tektronix
ARPA: tekmdp!toddv.tektronix @ rand-relaypwv@fluke.UUCP (06/17/83)
Just thought I'd put in my two cents worth on MSI processing: DISADVANTAGES If the roll says 20 exposures, that's all you get. The last roll I tried had been cut a little long, so I shot about 23 frames. They (MSI) hacked the last three off the negative roll (I could see about half of the 21st frame at the end of the roll). No big deal, just can be frustrating if your used to Kodak who will print everything on the roll. MSI doesn't do a real good job of keeping the roll batches separated. I've gotten other peoples slides along with mine (I must be lucky, I have always gotten all of mine). (No, none of them were *good* shots (your definition of *good*).) This is second hand - there can be an inordinately long wait for prints - up to 6 weeks (I have always ordered slides). DISCLAIMER Don't listen to me. I'm just an Engineer. All in all, for my normal work, I use Kodachrome and Kodak processing. They still do the best for a reasonable price. MSI is useful only if you want fast slide film (1000 ASA) or if you like both slides and prints of your shots. Pat Vilbrandt John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc. Ever-wet, WA ...decvax!microsof!fluke!pwv
bhaskar@fluke.UUCP (06/18/83)
I have used Eastman 5247 film from RGB in Hollywood since 1976, and have never had any problems with it or with them (one roll was lost in the mails in 1977). I am very happy with the results, and don't plan on switching in the near future to any other film or to another processor. I don't remember their address, but I will send it to anyone who is interested.
thomas@utah-gr.UUCP (06/22/83)
5247 is a color negative movie film, so it is presumably designed to make good "prints" onto a slide-type film (as opposed to Kodacolor). =Spencer
bryan@rochester.UUCP (06/22/83)
Once again, ALL color negative films can produce slides. Just print them. There is nothing magical about 5247 or any of the other motion picture films. If you want to make your own slides, Zone V in Brookline, Mass. sells the print film (ie film to make prints [slides] of color negatives) and processing chemicals. -Bryan Lyles
kar@ritcv.UUCP (06/22/83)
Regarding the recent discussion of 5247 and 5293 slide films: Note that these are negative films. To obtain slides, the processor must expose a transparent "print" material to the negatives. The slides you get are not what went through your camera (the negatives are). So what? This means that the proper way to place the slides in your projector is with the emulsion side facing AWAY from the screen, unlike "real" transparencies. Since it is the emulsion shrinking more than the film base that causes the slide to curve, the slides you get from 5247 curve in the wrong direction compared to "real" transparencies. So what? If you have a recent Kodak projector (maybe other brands too, I'm not sure) the projection lens is compensates for the curve in normal slides because it is designed to have a curved plane of focus. If your slides curve the other way, it will be impossible to get them focused in the center and the edges at the same time. I found it so objectionable that I switched back to "real" transparency film, even though it costs more than twice as much. Ken Reek, Rochester Institute of Technology seismo!rochester!ritcv!kar
heliotis@rochester.UUCP (06/23/83)
Ken, the warping that you mentioned is very interesting. I just took my first roll of 5293 film, and the first film that I used for quite a while from Seattle Film Works. I was just about to say that I thought those guys were improving! First, they switched from plastic to paper mounts (do other people hate plastic mounts?). Second, I noticed that the slides WARP INTO FOCUS JUST LIKE MY KODACHROME slides, on my 1977 Kodak Carousel (with a "C" lens?)! Perhaps they expose the negative backwards? If you can tell which side is the emulsion side, I'll show you a slide sometime, Ken. Jim Heliotis rochester!heliotis
zhahai@nbires.UUCP (06/27/83)
This may have been gone over before, but... Why do only the 5247/5288/ fuji something labs offer slides and prints? This is negative filem, right? So they must make yet another reversal to get the slides (right??). Fine, that way they can compensate for daylight/tungsten, just like prints. (Well not entirely fine - isn't some sharpness lost?). Do they really Push process the negatives, or just compensate when duping? But, the big question is: Why doesn't somebody offer "slides" from regular negative film (Kodacolor?) via the same (guessed) technique of duping onto another negative and mounting? What am I missing?