bnp@ihldt.UUCP (08/12/83)
(I'm a relative newcomer to this group, so please excuse this question if its a repeat of an earlier topic.) I'm interested in shooting double exposure photographs with my Canon AE-1. The camera has no mechanism designed for this purpose, although rumor has that it can be accomplished by rewinding the film by one frame before advancing and arming the shutter. If anyone has had experience with this procedure, or knows af any other effective tricks, I would appreciate hearing about them. If you are interested in the results, send me mail and I'll forward anything I hear; if requests seem to warrent, I'll post to the net. Thanks, Bruce Peters BTL - Naperville, Ill. ...!ihnp4!ihldt!bnp
wm@tekchips.UUCP (08/16/83)
Many cameras which have no provision for double exposure can be fooled into doing it with the following trick: 1- tighten up the tension on the rewind crank. 2- take the first exposure. 3- push the rewind button on the bottom of the camera. 4- Hold the rewind crank so that the film won't advance. 5- while doing #4, cock the shutter. 6- take the second exposure. 7- wind the film, and check to see that the rewind crank turns. I've never seen a camera which this didn't work on, but you may have to practice to make it work well. Wm Leler wm.Tektronix@Rand-relay
fred@umcp-cs.UUCP (08/16/83)
How can you tell when you've rewound by EXACTLY one frame?
The standard procedure for doing double exposures on cameras which
don't have this feature (The Nikon FM series does) is to:
1) Take up the slack in the film canister by giving the rewind
crank a half turn. (I'm not convinced that this really does
anything useful.)
2) Press the rewind button and at the same time . . .
3) Pull the film-advance lever.
I've done this with my OM-2n. It works, but the film tends to drift
a little, so you can't get really precisely aligned double exposures.
I imagine that with practice you might learn to avoid moving the
film. This is, of course, a real pain if you're trying to do two
exposures without moving the camer at all (as in doing ``ghost''
images of people).
Fred Blonder
harpo!seismo!umcp-cs!fredwally@cornell.UUCP (Walter C. Dietrich) (08/19/83)
The suggested solutions will probably give you double exposures, but
I wouldn't try them until I found a Canon repair-man who was sure
they were safe (unless you have lots of spare money). In any event,
they probably won't give you perfect alignment of the images. Here
are two other suggestions:
1. Take your pictures the regular way (one image per negative) and
make the double exposure in the darkroom.
2. Using slide film, make one image per slide, but overexpose them
a stop or so (you will have to experiment with that part). When
you get the slides back, SANDWICH them (put two pieces of film
in one mount).
Both of these give you more creative control and you can use them on your
old negatives and slides too!
Good luck,
Wally Dietrichkar@ritcv.UUCP (Kenneth A Reek) (08/23/83)
tton goes through 3/4 of a revolution, 4) Holding rewind crank still, re-engage sprocket by advancing winding lever until it stops, 5) Finish advancing film normally. This left the same frame behind the shutter with surprisingly good accuracy. I played around a little and found that the 3/4 revolution was not very critical, presumably due to the construction of the ratchet in the sprocket. This may or may not work on other cameras, and it may require a different factor (other than 3/4 revolution), but this can be discovered by experimentation. If it works, you will have to put a mark on the rewind button, but so what? Ken Reek, Rochester Institute of Technology seismo!rochester!ritcv!kar