ddb@dec-mrvax.UUCP (06/24/84)
I currently have and use a Soligor 1-degree spot meter. I paid about $150 for it (this is not the fancy digital one). For zone system work, a spot meter is invaluable. You can sometimes, terrain and subject permitting, do as well taking a regular meter up close to the subject, but it always takes longer, and in some situations it can't be done. I've used the spot meter both in the studio and outdoors. I like it a lot. If you're using a 35mm camera with built-in meter, a spot meter is definitely the kind of separate meter to carry, since you can use the built-in for average readings when desired. I've also done some work with incident light meters, both the sliding dome on my Gossen Luna-pro F, and a friend's Sekonic studio meter. In general, the zone system approach is much better, in my opinion; however, an incident reading can be useful when you're in a hurry.
darryl@ism780.UUCP (06/27/84)
#R:decwrl:-196300:ism780:21200003:000:271 ism780!darryl Jun 25 20:57:00 1984 Wouldn't the metering system in the new Olympus OM-4 perform the same function as a spot meter? (My understanding of its features are strictly from glossy brochures, so please excuse any naivete showing through :-). --Darryl Richman ...!cca!ima!ism780!darryl
rob@asgb.UUCP (07/02/84)
( Ouch! The lin nster got a pie his one ) > Wouldn't the metering system in the new Olympus OM-4 perform the same > function as a spot meter? (My understanding of its features are strictly > from glossy brochures, so please excuse any naivete showing through :-). I would think so. I don't own one YET, but I went down to the local camera store and shot a 24-exp roll with theirs, trying all sorts of nightmarish exposure situations. I had unbeleivable success. Averaging the spot readings (automatically done) provided great results, but using the "shadow" and "highlight" modes was just as effective and easier. The OM-4 seems to provide you lot's of power, but leaves the major decisions to you. I also know some optical engineers who have told me nobody makes better glass than Olympus. As for the zone system, I'm not very experienced in that area. I might wonder if the spot size would be too small. Of course, with a zoom lens you could make the spot size almost any area of the landscape you wish; rather difficult with any spot meter I've ever used! Realize, however, that this is only my opinion. If you ask twenty photographers, you will probably get about ten different opinions. Of course, Olympus isn't the status symbol that Nikon is. (don't take that comment as a cutdown for Nikons...I think they're great too.) Rob Greenbank, Boulder, CO decvax!ittvax!dcdwest!sdcsvax!bmcg!asgb!rob
dgt@pegasus.UUCP (Dan G. Theriault) (11/06/84)
I am in the market for a good exposure meter. I am presently lookibg for recommendations and prices from experienced people. I don't want to spend much more than $100. Any ideas? Please send info via mail. Thanks Candace T.
dgt@pegasus.UUCP (Dan G. Theriault) (11/06/84)
I am in the market for a good exposure meter for my equipment. I am looking for information and recommendations from experienced people. I am not interested in paying much more than $100, is this reasonable? Please mail any information. Thanks Candace T.
herbie@watdcsu.UUCP (Herb Chong, Computing Services) (11/06/84)
If you are serious about getting an accessory exposure meter rather than
using the one in your camera, my personal recommendation is not to go cheap.
You will regret it in the long run. The more expensive meters are more
sensitive and have more features. Almost all of them are also part of
exposure systems that allow you to attach accessories for darkroom work,
flash meters, and other such things. A Gossen Lunasix is one that comes
highly recommended, as does a Minolta Flashmeter III. Otherwise, unless you
suspect something wrong with your camera's builtin metering, stay with what
you've got.
Herb Chong...
I'm user-friendly -- I don't byte, I nybble....
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BITNET: herbie at watdcs,herbie at watdcsu2141smh@aluxe.UUCP (henning) (11/06/84)
**** **** From the keys of Steve Henning, AT&T Bell Labs, Reading, PA aluxe!2141smh > The more expensive meters are more > sensitive and have more features. Almost all of them are also part of > exposure systems that allow you to attach accessories for darkroom > work, flash meters, and other such things. It takes a very inexpensive meter to measure light. What does cost money is spot attachments, flash attachments, and over priced (over advertised) brand names. The meter on a camera is one of the most difficult to use for measuring incident light, and shadow detail. I always carry an extra meter. They are invaluable in measuring detail, checking the camera meter, and saving wear and tear on the camera. The least expensive meters are very accurate and many are very sensitive. Definitely get incident light capability. If you want a flash meter get a flash meter. They are much less expensive than the flash meter attachments. If you want a darkroom meter get a darkroom meter. Nothing is more annoying than spending more money to get something that is less convenient to use. The more jobs something does, the less convenient it is to do any one job usually.
herbie@watdcsu.UUCP (Herb Chong, Computing Services) (11/07/84)
Unless you've got a weird camera, I don't see how using its builtin
exposure meter is going to cause wear on the camera other than battery
life. As for shadow detail, if you're not willing to move your camera
to check it, then a separate meter is required. For most people, this
convenience is not worth the cost of the meter. As for measuring incident
light, most people don't know how to read it properly anyway. One could
buy a Sekonic Auto-Lumi L-158, which costs $20 CAN, but requires recalibration
every year or two and is not very sensitive, not to mention slow in response.
CdS light meters have a memory effect when exposed to bright light for
any length of time. Silicon cells are sensitive to infrared and must be
properly filtered. Compensating for these problems costs money. GaAs cells
are expensive period. The other point is that purchase of a light meter
is to either check exposure compared to the builtin meter or to extend
beyond the limitations of the camera's meter. Almost any exposure meter
will satisfy the first, with the possible exception of a selenium cell meter,
while it takes more to be the second. The EV range must be higher than
the camera's meter, measure incident and reflected light quickly and efficiently
without a lot of accessories, and be accurate. Whatever exposure meter is
purchased, a Kodak Grey Card and the knowledge of how to use it properly is
strongly recommended.
Herb Chong...
I'm user-friendly -- I don't byte, I nybble....
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NETNORTH, BITNET: herbie@watdcs, herbie@watdcsudgt@pegasus.UUCP (Dan G. Theriault) (11/09/84)
Recently I sent a message asking about exposure meters. Almost every response indicated that I should use the meter in my camera. Doesn't anyone out there have a camera wich just came with a good lense and a couple of mirrors? Believe it or not I own a camera with NO built in light meter!!!! I am borrowing a meter now, but am not thrilled with it so I need info from other people. Magazines cater mostly to the 35mm automatic camera bugs. I will be using the meter with my 2 1/4 and my 35mm (which does have a light meter but I am dissatisfied with the overall results.). So does anyone have some useful advice for a desperate photographer?
citrin@ucbvax.ARPA (Wayne Citrin) (11/12/84)
I recommend the Luna-Pro Sbc meter. Soon after I bought my A-1, I found that most of my shots were such that the built-in reading was inappropriate, and I found myself compensating between one and two stops on most exposures. When I bought a used F-1 without a meter, I decided that I definitely needed a hand-held meter. I bought the Sbc mainly for its great sensitivity and range. I use it mainly for incident readings and have not bought any of the expansion features, although there are many. I think that I paid about $120 for it in NYC about five years ago, at Olden Camera, but I'm not sure what it would cost now. Wayne Citrin (ucbvax!citrin)
darrelj@sdcrdcf.UUCP (Darrel VanBuer) (11/12/84)
I use (three) ten year old meters intermittently:
A Gossen Lunisix 3 (European label for the LunaPro) no accessories.
Big advantage: sensitivity -- lowest reading gives an exposure of 8
seconds at f/1.4 with ASA 400 film. A scene lit by the full moon is
measurable.
A Weston Master V (I don't think Weston makes meters anymore, but they can
be found used fairly easily). Big advantages: selenium meter, so no
batteries to run down (and it's a large cell so it's fairly sensitive --
lowest is 1/10 second at f/1.4 ASA 400), and dial marked for zone system.
Both of the above are dual range meters with pointer locks and accessories
supplied either built in or standard for both reflected and incident light.
I also have a (fairly) cheap old Sekonic selenium meter, whose main
redeeming feature now is that it fits a compact underwater housing.
A quick look at some camera ads shows the Gossen LunaPro at around $85 for
the basic model; various Sekonic meters from $17 to $135 ($270 for a
flashmeter).
Another meter accessory which is pretty cheap is a Kodak Neutral test card;
a card which is 18% reflectance neutral grey on one side and 90% white on
the other. This can be used to make an incident reading with a camera or
other plain meter for subjects of nontypical albedo.
--
Darrel J. Van Buer, PhD
System Development Corp.
2500 Colorado Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90406
(213)820-4111 x5449
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VANBUER@USC-ECL.ARPAjohnm@nvuxd.UUCP (J. Montgomery) (11/13/84)
Another good choice is the Minolta Autometer III. I use
a 4x5 camera, so a separate exposure meter is a must. I
have been quite happy with this one. What's nice about it
the digital readout. You don't have to transfer a needle
reading to a dial, you just read it off. It's "shutter
preferred", that is, you set the shutter speed and it
gives you the f/stop. There are lots of attachments for
it; I only use the incident hemisphere. Mine was about
$100.
John Montgomery
Bell Communications Research
nvuxd!johnm
--
John Montgomery
Bell Communications Research
...{harpo,ihnp4}!houxd!johnm