dalka (12/02/82)
when buying a flash: 1) look at the "manual guide numbers" of the flash. They tell how strong a flash is. Also make sure the ASA rating on all are the same 2) does the camea use a dedicated flash? If it does make sure you get a flash which is FULLY dedicated for that camera. For example: The Sunpak 422D is a dedicated flash, BUT is does not meter off the focal plane which can be used by some cameras (like Minolta X700). 3) check how many flashes the thing will give with the same set of batteries 4) Given a choice between a flash which takes two batteries and one that takes four. Take four, there will be MUCH less time charging the flash especially when the batteries get old. Ken Dalka ihuxe!dalka
cjn@calmasd.UUCP (Cheryl Nemeth) (06/23/85)
I'm looking for a flash for my Pentax ME Super. Any recomendations? The flashes that Pentax makes for the ME Super are the AF200S and the AF160. Is it better to buy the Pentax or look for an after-market flash? (What's the difference between dedicated and automatic?) Thanks!
sasaki@harvard.ARPA (Marty Sasaki) (06/27/85)
Unless your camera does off the film flash metering, all a dedicated
flash provides is convenience (you don't have to set the shutter and the
aperture). Almost any automatic flash will work with a non-through-the-
lens-flash-metering camera.
I would recommend the Vivitar 283. It is relatively powerful, rugged and
there are loads of accessories available. It is a little old in design,
but that means that it is cheap (less than $40).
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Marty Sasaki net: sasaki@harvard.{arpa,uucp}
Havard University Science Center phone: 617-495-1270
One Oxford Street
Cambridge, MA 02138johnw@astroatc.UUCP (06/28/85)
My only recomendation is that you get a flash with a tilt/swivel head. Direct flash (aimed at the subject from the camera) always produces terrible results (ie ugly shadows) The "right" way to do flash photograph is to have to flashes mounted high on tri-pod stands, but who what's to lug all that crap around (unless your doing a wedding for $$$) To compromise, I find bounce-flash quite acceptable! You loose about 1 f-stop, but it usually covers the range of my 28! Sometimes you get nose shadows, but never anything like the ugly direct shadows! I found one for about $40, but I was lucky. I've seem several *nice* (ie better than mine) in the $50-70 range. Personally I prefer fast film, fast (f1.4 if I could affort them) lenses and available light. I hate flashes, and only use them when I have to. That is way you need a good flash. A cheap flash is like a cheap dictionary: when you NEED it, you find that it won't do the trick. Enough ramblings.... John Wardale any civialized machine !uwvax!astroatc!johnw *** to err is human, to really foul-up world news requires The Net ***