[net.rec.photo] Easy color contact prints?

ems@amdahl.UUCP (ems) (09/18/85)

While I'm asking questions of the net, I suppose I might as
well explore the area of darkroom methods too...

I have gathered together the materials and supplies to do contact
printing of B&W negatives on the cheap.  (a picture frame for a
contact printer,  room light for the light source,  etc.)
I have even made a few proof sheets and they seem to be OK.

Now I'm thinking of the big jump into COLOR.  Does anyone have
a favorite technique (or even one they hate, but works and is
easy and cheap) for making color contact proof sheets?  I am
interested in proofing both negatives and slides.  This weekend
I am going to try Panchromatic B&W paper and see how it does,
but I would rather have real COLOR proofs to look at.  Can one
use a regular tungsten light bulb for contact printing color?

Thanks,
-- 

E. Michael Smith  ...!{hplabs,ihnp4,amd,nsc}!amdahl!ems

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jer@peora.UUCP (J. Eric Roskos) (09/23/85)

> Now I'm thinking of the big jump into COLOR.  Does anyone have
> a favorite technique (or even one they hate, but works and is
> easy and cheap) for making color contact proof sheets?  I am
> interested in proofing both negatives and slides.  This weekend
> I am going to try Panchromatic B&W paper and see how it does,
> but I would rather have real COLOR proofs to look at.  Can one
> use a regular tungsten light bulb for contact printing color?

Well, you may not believe this, but back when I first started experimenting
with color printing, I made color contact prints using one of these
"high intensity" desk lamps, the ones that have a transformer in the base,
and a bulb of about 2" diameter on a telescoping stalk.  I made these
prints by putting the film and paper in a contact printing frame on the
counter in the bathroom (i.e., about waist high), held the light as far
overhead as I could, and turned the light on for a VERY short time (with
some practice it was possible to do it intuitively for the right time,
although it wasn't long enough to count up to any number).

The surprising thing was, the color correction came out more or less right!
Actually when I got my enlarger I was puzzled to discover that considerable
color correction was required to contact print with it (I generally use
80Y+40M; this is an enlarger with a quartz halogen lamp, similar to those
used in transparency projectors).  In those days, I used 78RC paper, which
required a different color correction from the new Ektacolor papers, so I'm
not sure how well it would turn out now; but it is sort of surprising to me
that the color turned out right.  I think the 78RC required 60Y+40M, so
probably the Ektacolor prints will turn out a little yellow; fortunately
that is OK for contact prints, since people are more used to seeing things
in yellow light (due to incandescent lighting) and thus it is less apparent
than if it was, say, magenta.

Now when I make contact prints I usually buy these notebook-page sized
plastic sheets for the film to go in, and contact print from those.  The
prints don't turn out as sharp as if you use a contact printer that has the
clips built into the printing frame, but it makes it possible to print a
variety of different sizes of negatives using the same printing frame.

The above, of course, was for prints from negatives; if you print from slides
with Cibachrome, you probably will find it fairly trivial anyway, since it's
hard to print wrong with Cibachrome (if you like Cibachrome colors).

In any case, just experiment... you can always buy some low-cost color
correction filters like those made by Unicolor and tape them over your light
source to get the proper color correction.  The much harder part is getting
the exposure time right; if I remember right, toward the end of that time
was when I built the darkroom timer I use now, using a 555, triac, and
triac optocoupler to time it.  This was because the time was so short that
it was hard to get it exactly right.
-- 
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