[net.rec.photo] Shutter Speeds for Focal-Plane & Leaf Shutters

smh@mhuxl.UUCP (henning) (01/11/86)

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From the keys of Steve Henning, AT&T Bell Labs, Reading, PA mhuxl!smh

> What about cameras with leaf-type shutters, as opposed to focal-plane?
> Since the total time that the shutter is open is considerably less,
> it would seem that you could get away with a slower speed and have 
> less vibration than with a focal-plane shutter.
> 
> Another suggestion: if your focal-plane shutter moves vertically 
> across the film (as in my Nikkormat), you can probably use 1/125 and
> get stable results.  At least, you can most likely use one stop 
> slower speed than with an equivalent horizontal moving shutter.
> 
> A final question: With a leaf shutter, why isn't the center of the 
> negative overexposed, and the edges underexposed, since the shutter
> leaves the center of the negative open for a longer time than the 
> edges?

All three statements are wrong.  1) A grain of film, or any feature on the
film receives light from the lens for the same time with a focal-plane
shutter as with a leaf shutter set at the same speed.  The difference is
that all grains receive the light at the same time with a leaf shutter, but
with a focal-plane shutter the film on one edge receives its light about
1/80th of a second before the other edge of the film.
2) Again, a vertical shutter exposes the light from the lens to the film
for the same length of time as a horizontal shutter set at the same speed
so the blur is the same for the same shutter speed.
3) The leaf shutter is placed at a point where the rays of light do not
correspond to their position in a picture.  That happens to be the place
where your focal-plane-shutter lenses have their aperture.  Otherwise
as you closed down your lens, the outside of your picture would disappear
rather than dimming the entire picture.

jer@peora.UUCP (J. Eric Roskos) (01/14/86)

> > Since the total time that the shutter is open is considerably less,
> > it would seem that you could get away with a slower speed and have
> > less vibration than with a focal-plane shutter.

> > Another suggestion: if your focal-plane shutter moves vertically
> > across the film (as in my Nikkormat), you can probably use 1/125 and
> > get stable results.

> All three statements are wrong.

No, I think he's just confusing various causes of shutter-related image
problems.  In the first case, there *is* a difference, since if there is
motion of the camera (or the image) with a focal plane shutter, the
interval over which *the whole of the frame* is exposed is indeed longer:
any one point on the frame will be exposed for the same amount of time as
for a leaf shutter, but the frame as a whole will be exposed for possibly
much longer than that, i.e., the time it takes for the slit between the
two shutter curtains to move across the entire frame.  As a result,
assuming the thing being photographed is big enough to fill the frame, the
total motion recorded on the film will cover a larger distance than it
would with a leaf shutter.

As a concrete example, suppose it takes a constant 1/90 second for the front
curtain to move across the frame.  Then the total motion recorded on the
film will be the amount of motion that occurred in 1/90 second, eventhough
the slit moving across was sufficiently small that any one point was only
exposed for, say, 1/500 second.

This is why, for example, if you photograph a fast-moving car with a
horizontal focal plane shutter, the wheels will come out looking oval
shaped, eventhough they may be relatively sharp: the motion during the
exposure of any one arbitrarily small set of points on the film is
relatively small, but the motion across the film plane may be much larger,
causing the wheel to be stretched out into an oval.


In the second case... I've also seen arguments in favor of vertical focal
plane shutters that run along these lines, but I've forgotten the basis of
them.  As I recall, it had to do with vibration induced by the shutter
motion, rather than unsteadiness of the hand.
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