jacx@hou2d.UUCP (J.CADLEY) (09/21/84)
x
I am planning to spend part of my 1984 vacation
in some of the colder portions of Europe. I'd like to
come home with some nice pictures, and I'm concerned
about the effects of cold weather on film (0 to -10 F, with a
worst case of around -20 F). As I have no significant
photography experience, I would welcome receiving some advice
about how to deal with cold weather.
I'd also like to know if cold weather will prevent me
from using a camera which develops its photos instantly.
I'll worry less if I can see what I've photographed
while I still have a chance to try again.
Thanks for the help,
John Cadley
AT&T Consumer Products Labswally@cornell.UUCP (Wally Dietrich) (09/22/84)
There are several things you should be aware of if you want to take photos
in the cold.
The most important is batteries. If it is very cold, batteries won't
provide enough current for the shutters of many modern (less than 10 years
old) cameras. Some high-end cameras have mechanically-controlled shutters
that get around this problem. Of course, the electronics need power too.
Cold weather isn't bad for film, as far as I know. (Extremely low
temperatures, like below -50 F, will effect the exposure times, but I don't
think there are any other bad effects.)
I don't know anything about instant-print films. Cold might effect their
development times, since chemical reactions are involved.
For the hobbyist and novice, A GOOD WAY TO FIND OUT ABOUT COLD-WEATHER
PHOTOGRAPHY is to look in the SKIING magazines. Every year or two they run
articles about skiing photography. Besides the stuff I've discussed above,
they mention filters and other things you might not think about until it's
too late.
Wally Dietrichthisted@gargoyle.UChicago.UUCP (Ronald Thisted) (09/22/84)
A few things about cold weather photography and effects on film. 1. Sometimes the shutter freezes on standard 35mm SLRs will freeze (open or shut), or the mirror will freeze at low temps. Keeping the camera inside the coat and removing it only for photos will help; avoid exposure to wind for the same reason. 2. At very low temperatures the film can become brittle; autowinders or even careless manual rewind can cause the film to split or break. 3. Going from outdoors to indoors to change film can cause condensation on the film and spots on the negative. Let the camera come to room temperature before opening the back. It might be a good idea to wait until room temp to rewind an exposed cartridge (see #2). Ron Thisted (...!ihnp4!gargoyle!thisted) or thisted@UChicago.CSNET
jans@mako.UUCP (09/23/84)
[] > 1. Sometimes the shutter freezes on standard 35mm SLRs > will freeze (open or shut), or the mirror will freeze > at low temps. Keeping the camera inside the coat and > removing it only for photos will help; avoid exposure to > wind for the same reason. True, the shutter may freeze, but go on... > 3. Going from outdoors to indoors to change film can cause > condensation on the film and spots on the negative. Let the > camera come to room temperature before opening the back. > It might be a good idea to wait until room temp to rewind an > exposed cartridge (see #2). For this very reason, DON'T keep the camera inside your coat if you are doing anything more strenuous than a slow walk! Shutters are lubricated with light machine oil and will generally only freeze if the camera gets some moisture in it to begin with. The same goes for point 3, above, with regards to changing lenses after coming inside. KEEP THE HUMIDITY OUT TO AVOID FREEZING! Keeping the camera inside the coat while skiing will really fog things up the moment you take it out! I also use an external battery on my Olympus cameras: I purchased an extra battery compartment cover and jury-rigged a sub-mini phone jack in it. I run it off of a couple of alkaline batteries in my pocket. Lithium batteries are now available to take the place of two MS76 type cells, but the jury is still out. Liths have excellent low-temperature characteristics, but have a lower capacity and tend to run out at the wrong time. (Carry a spare... they shelve nicely for years and years.) The only time I ever had a frozen shutter was when I followed point 1, above. The camera repairman who fixed it afterward told me the truth! -- :::::: Jan Steinman Box 1000, MS 61-161 (w)503/685-2843 :::::: :::::: tektronix!tekecs!jans Wilsonville, OR 97070 (h)503/657-7703 ::::::
jcp@brl-tgr.ARPA (Joe Pistritto <jcp>) (09/24/84)
My experience with cold weather stems from two area, taking shots outdoors in New England winters (0 to -10F), and a short stint on the North Slope of Alaska (-40F to -20F). In all cases I used a 35mm camera, taking slide film (usually Ektachrome 64, my standard garden variety slide film). The only major problem I had was lense fogging up when I came inside from the outside cold air. After a while, I learned to leave my camera in a cool dry area (above freezing, but not much), for a while before and after exiting into the sub-zero stuff. Also, I used a UV(0) filter at all times on my lenses, and *this is important* I INSTALLED the filters on the lenses outside in below freezing temps. (This makes the air between the lense and the filter low-humidity air, preventing ice-fog on the inside of the filter, this was a BIG problem in Alaska with the humidified buildings and the exterior -40F temps. Fortunately, I thought of it before going, and remembered to remove all my lense filters and re-install them immediately after arriving on-site. I DIDN'T TOUCH them after that, (particularly inside). I have heard that instant-print cameras don't work at all well below freezing. (the chemical reactions to make the prints are slowed dramatically by cold, (although SX-70 film will still develop at 25F or so, it just takes like 10 minutes to do so). Below that, I suspect the chemicals in the film may freeze, destroying it. The trick of holding the camera inside your jacket and the popping it out to take a shot is *BAD* because the lense will usually fog up due to the humidity near your body. -JCP-
hope@gatech.UUCP (Theodore Hope) (09/24/84)
Remember:
When shooting in cold weather, always keep an extra (warm) set of batteries.
--
Theodore Hope
School of Information & Computer Science, Georgia Tech, Atlanta GA 30332
CSNet: Hope @ GATech ARPA: Hope%GATech.CSNet @ CSNet-Relay.ARPA
uucp: ...!{akgua,allegra,hplabs,ihnp4,masscomp,ut-ngp}!gatech!hope
...!{rlgvax,sb1,uf-cgrl,unmvax,ut-sally}!gatech!hopedmm@browngr.UUCP (David Margolis) (09/24/84)
When taking cold weather pictures remember the following: 1) If you take a room temperature camera out into 0 degree weather those warm glass surfaces exposed to the cold will fog. Allow plenty of time for the glass to reach the temperature that you'll be taking pictures at. 2) The same goes for condensation of the film itself. 3) You'll have the same trouble when taking the cold camera back into warm environments. 4) Instant film is meant to be developed at room temperature (~70F). If you use a polaroid for instance outside stick it under your clothes to let it develop, or if the temperature is not too extreme give it a longer development time. 5) The mechanics on most cameras will work fine in cold weather.
2141smh@aluxe.UUCP (henning) (09/25/84)
**** **** From the keys of Steve Henning, AT&T Bell Labs, Reading, PA aluxe!2141smh > The trick of holding > the camera inside your jacket and the popping it out to take a shot is > *BAD* because the lens will usually fog up due to the humidity near > your body. A few rules to follow when using a camera in a cold environment. 1) Always put the camera in a moisture proof container like a baggie before placing the camera in a warmer area. Otherwise you will be coating the lens, shutter, electronics and film with water, lots of water. When you can see a fog on a lens, it is WET. 2) Always carry your camera in a warm place like in your car or under your coat, but do not break rule 1. If you use your coat, you must place the camera in the baggie first. The warmth helps the electronics and keeps the film from breaking. If you use cheap lenses, it keeps the lubricant from freezing. 3) Before removing the camera from the baggie, make sure that it is at least as warm as the environment, otherwise condensation. I have taken lots of picture on ski slopes, mountain tops, above the arctic circle, and these rules have always worked.
wm@tekchips.UUCP (Wm Leler) (09/26/84)
I seem to remember that old Polaroid cameras used to come with a hinged metal sleeve the size of a piece of film, with instructions that for cold weather, to keep the metal in a pocket close to your (warm) body and put the developing print inside the (warm) metal sleeve so it would develop properly. They've certainly changed since I saw this, so I don't know if the current films are more or less affected. wm
gino@voder.UUCP (Gino Bloch) (09/27/84)
>> 1) If you take a room temperature camera out into 0 degree weather those >> warm glass surfaces exposed to the cold will fog. Allow plenty of time >> for the glass to reach the temperature that you'll be taking pictures at. So now dew forms on WARM surfaces??? -- Gene E. Bloch (...!nsc!voder!gino)
rs55611@ihuxk.UUCP (Robert E. Schleicher) (09/27/84)
The problem with cameral lenses fogging when brought out in the cold IS still a situation where dew forms when warm air hits a colder object. In this case, the warm air is the air inside the camera, and/or between the filter and lens, or between the lens and filter. The solid parts of the camera (metal or plastic) cool off quicker than the air does, resulting in condensation. This is why the worst condensation is often on the INSIDE of the lens, or inside a filter or lens cap. If you could put your camera in a vacuum and then bring it into the cold, there'd be no problems. Bob Schleicher ihuxk!rs55611
fortmiller@inanna.DEC (Ed Fortmiller) (02/17/86)
In article <1113@vax2.fluke.UUCP> behemoth@fluke.UUCP (Pat Gallagher) writes: > >I am planning a cold weather photography trip and I am looking for a >camera that will operate at about -10 F. I would also appreciate any >hints or warnings about camera and film operation at low temperatures. I would strongly suggest reading "Photography Under Artic Conditions" KODAK Publication No. C-9. Even though you are probably not going to the Artic is does has several tips which you might find useful. I believe this may be a free publication. Write to: Eastman Kodak Company Rochester, NY 14650 Kodak does have a toll free (800) number but I do not know what it is. Very Brief Summary: " Good supply of fresh batteries. Carry a selenium cell meter which does not require batteries. Film subjected to extreme cold loses some of its humidity and may become brittle and break in the camera. Film should be advanced from one exposure to the next with a slow, steady motion. The film should be rewound slowly to help minimize static discharges, which could show on the film. Aviod motor drive rewinds. Color films may lose speed and change in color balance, and exposure meters may lose accuracy. The extent of these changes cannot be predicted in advance. The wisest course is to use film freely, bracketing exposures over and under the meter reading. For hand covering one suggestion is to wear thin silk, cotton, or woolen gloves under heavy linked mittens. One or both mittens can be removed when pictures are actually being taken. The inner gloves will give aduquate protection for the few seconds needed to focus the camera and trip the shutter. Silk gloves are favored over wool or cotton. Do not breathe on the lenses or viewfinders. " If you drop the camera in snow, shake it off rather than trying to blow it off because your moist breathe will freeze on it. A lens hood should be used to avoid flare from the sun or snow. Much more... suggest you get the publication. Posted: Sun 16-Feb-1986 20:58 To: rhea::decwrl::"net.rec.photo"