[net.rec.photo] Upgrading an old Nikkormat

nemes@rruxd.UUCP (R Nemes) (03/13/86)

I own a Nikkormat that I purchased new in 1971.  In addition I
have 3 Nikkor lenses:
     
      50mm 1.4
      55mm micro
      28mm series E

I am considering upgrading to an FE-2 or FM-2 for the following reasons:

1.  The focusing screen makes it almost impossible to focus simply 
    and accurately, especially in low light.

2.  It is uncomfortably heavy.

3.  The lack of built-in hot shoe makes attaching a flash unit
    cumbersome.
 
4.  I primarily use it to take pictures of my young kids, who never
    sit still for a minute.  Having to continously adjust both the
    focus (see 1. above) and the exposure while waiting for a good shot
    means I usually miss the good ones.


I was planning on the FE-2 (primarily because of 4.), but having read
some articles on the net indicating that it is "flaky" makes me wonder.

Can someone tell me specifically what has put the FE-2 out of favor ?  
What about the FM-2 vs. FE-2 ?
What about the FA as an alternative?

Rick Nemes
...bellcore!rruxd!nemes

 

rfg@hound.UUCP (R.GRANTGES) (03/15/86)

[]
I just spoke to Nikon the other day.  They (Customer service) said
that their E-series lenses did not have the coupling prong to couple to
the old Nikkon/Nikkormat mount. Did they lie? How do you manage your
E series lens? Stop-down metering?
You will have trouble with the other two lenses (may have trouble)
trying to use them with a recent model Nikon designed for the AI
lense mount.

-- 

"It's the thought, if any, that counts!"  Dick Grantges  hound!rfg

jordan@ucbarpa.berkeley.edu (Jordan Hayes) (03/15/86)

In article <126@rruxd.UUCP> nemes@rruxd.UUCP (R Nemes) writes:

	I am considering upgrading to an FE-2 or FM-2 for the
	following reasons:

	1. The focusing screen makes it almost impossible to focus
	   simply and accurately, especially in low light.

I got rid of my split screen on my FM-2's because of this reason. But
then again, I was "raised" on a Nikkormat ... I find those split
screens to be a hassle, and very SLOOOOOWWW ... There's nothing like
knowing what the the image is really gonna look like. Also, if you do a
lot of shooting where the main image area is not in the center of the
finder (I do -- most pros do too), it makes for a lot of difficulty in
focussing and shooting quickly and accurately. I find I can get just as
much use out of the edges of the screen as I can the middle.

	2. It is uncomfortably heavy.

Again, I guess I'm just used to it. My F-2AS is heavier. I like the
stability of a heavy camera. It makes for much easier long exposures.
Maybe you're holding it wrong. You should hold out your left palm
facing away from you and rest the entire bulk of the camera on the
middle of your palm. This allows your whole arm to support the camera
instead of just your fingers and wrist. It also allows you to focus and
change aperture with a minimum of effort, since your fingers are no
longer supporting the camera. Usually the thumb and middle finger work
the best. Then you are free to use your right hand for extra stability
on the side of the camera furthest from your left arm, and to use for
squeezing the shutter trip and winding. Using this technique, I am able
to hand hold a 135mm f/2.8 on my F-2 at up to 1/2 second.

Things are slightly different if you have a motor drive ... then you
sorta need to hold it with your right hand ... Nikkormats have one
available, but I've rarely seen it. The F-36 for the F is a beast, but
with a long lens (like the 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF) it really helps for
stability.

	3. The lack of built-in hot shoe makes attaching a flash unit
	   cumbersome.

True. However, if you have the flash holder (there is an optional thing
that *looks* like a hot shoe and attaches above the eyepiece sorta the
way olympus' do ...), you can get an adapter and solder it on and
permanently attach a PC cord to the body.

	4. I primarily use it to take pictures of my young kids, who
	   never sit still for a minute.  Having to continously adjust
	   both the focus (see 1.  above) and the exposure while waiting
	   for a good shot means I usually miss the good ones.

Well. There you have it. I've always said that the best way to buy
anything (be it cameras, computers or food) is to examine your needs,
and buy whatever is appropriate for fulfilling them. Sure, a Leica is a
terrific camera, but if it doesn't let you frame quickly enough to get
the picture of your daughter blowing out the candles, what good is it?

I think you def. need to buy your next camera based on (4). If you want
to buy Nikon because you trust them and want to use your lenses (by the
way, as has been pointed out, you will need to get your mounts changed
slightly), and would like the convience of automatic exposure, then by
all means, the FE-2 and the FA are both fine cameras to invest in.

	I was planning on the FE-2 (primarily because of 4.), but
	having read some articles on the net indicating that it is
	"flaky" makes me wonder.  Can someone tell me specifically what
	has put the FE-2 out of favor?  What about the FM-2 vs. FE-2?
	What about the FA as an alternative?

My flames are related to the comparissons made here between the FM-2
and the FE-2, since they are in no way comparable. The "flakiness" I
refer to (I think you're quoting me, among others) is what I see due to
the automatic system. Things like having no mechanical shutter trip,
and thus being prone to impotence due to battery failure.  If my
meter-battery goes on my FM-2, I can shoot without it. Besides, I don't
use the meter that often, and the batteries last a LOT longer than on
the FE-2 ... the batteries also cause flakiness at cold temperatures.

I once HAD to use an FE-2 at a fire, and it conked out on me after 15
minutes in ~30 degree F weather. Gimme an F anyday in situations like
that.

I also don't trust automatic systems as much as I trust my sense. It's
too easy to fool an automatic system. But then, I shoot a lot of slides
that don't have very good exposure latitude (like, 1/2 - a full stop,
as opposed to color print that has at least 4 stops).

I'm not really sure of how the two auto cameras (FE-2 / FA) stack up
... maybe someone else can enlighten us ...

/jordan
{ucbvax,lll-crg,nike}!jordan

ark@alice.UucP (Andrew Koenig) (03/17/86)

> I just spoke to Nikon the other day.  They (Customer service) said
> that their E-series lenses did not have the coupling prong to couple to
> the old Nikkon/Nikkormat mount. Did they lie? How do you manage your
> E series lens? Stop-down metering?
> You will have trouble with the other two lenses (may have trouble)
> trying to use them with a recent model Nikon designed for the AI
> lense mount.

For a fairly nominal charge, you can (a) get pre-AI lenses modified
to work with cameras that require AI lenses, or (b) get a coupling
prong added to a series E lens.  One place that does it is:

	Professional Camera Repair Service
	37 West 47th Street
	New York NY

muller@glacier.ARPA (Eric Muller) (03/17/86)

I own a Nikkormat FTN and has the problem of adapting E-serie lens. Nikon
(San Francisco) was not very helpful with this. I have been the camera
repair shop next to my home, had a coupling prong (for less than 2$), got
some cyanolite glue. The only thing you have to be careful is that the
Nikkormat cannot be coupled with arbitrary lenses; that is, the maximal
aperture must be one that the Nikkormat accepts. There is no problem with
the 35mm (f2.8) nor with the 100mm (f2.5).

eric.